motor mounts 71 chevelle
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motor mounts 71 chevelle I'm looking for motor mounts that will drop the motor closest to the crossmember, mainly to give me enough space to not have to cut my tunnel for the 4l80e if possible and still have a good drivetrain angle. I looked into the dirty dingo mounts but they say they raise it about a 1/4" . I have the revised Holley pan so I don't think I will have to worry about the steering issue. Any help would be great. Thanks.
I'm looking for motor mounts that will drop the motor closest to the crossmember, mainly to give me enough space to not have to cut my tunnel for the 4l80e if possible and still have a good drivetrain angle. I looked into the dirty dingo mounts but they say they raise it about a 1/4" . I have the revised Holley pan so I don't think I will have to worry about the steering issue. Any help would be great. Thanks.
Andrew
The holley pan hangs less below the cross and doesn't hit tie rods (at least not as much as other I don't think), but does it actually sit any higher in the area immediately over the crossmember? If not then using it won't let you lower the more than any other pan and one mount will be as good as the next. I'm not saying that's the case, just something to look into before spending money.
The holley pan hangs less below the cross and doesn't hit tie rods (at least not as much as other I don't think), but does it actually sit any higher in the area immediately over the crossmember? If not then using it won't let you lower the more than any other pan and one mount will be as good as the next. I'm not saying that's the case, just something to look into before spending money.
Andrew
Use the new 302-2 Holley oil pan. Use generic 3/8" adapters like the ones at the link below for your sbc motor mounts. Section your sbc frame brackets to effectively shorten the overall height by 1/4". Just cut and reweld them together. Finally redrill your cross member moving the mount rearward. This lowers the engine because of the compound angle of the crossmember. You may want relocate the mounts first before modifying the frame bracket to see how much you gain before modifying the frame brackets. This means the motor goes in and out a few times unfortunately.
Use this adapter but redrill the crossmember. Install engine, mark holes and redrill.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...parts/12622HKR
This will get the oil pan within 3/8" from cross member and minimize driveline angle issues. I ran into the same issues with all the adapters raising the motor too much. Bolt in options are convenient but not best suited in this case.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...8-800x600-.jpg
What tranny crossmember? Which sbc mounts are you using, 307 or 350? Shoot me a phone number, I'd be happy to talk it over with you.
Use this adapter but redrill the crossmember. Install engine, mark holes and redrill.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...parts/12622HKR
This will get the oil pan within 3/8" from cross member and minimize driveline angle issues. I ran into the same issues with all the adapters raising the motor too much. Bolt in options are convenient but not best suited in this case.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...8-800x600-.jpg
What tranny crossmember? Which sbc mounts are you using, 307 or 350? Shoot me a phone number, I'd be happy to talk it over with you.
This is about as low as I could get on a budget...(72 A-body)
I used the factory SBC safety mounts, and the original stands...
I bought the "cheap" Trans-Dapt 1" set back plates...
I used a 4l60e...it was tight, but just a little massage with the BFH and it was perfect...
F-body pan...
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A Un-Notched F-Body oil pan will fit. But it will be tight going in and coming out. I tried it before. You will have about 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the oil pan and Cross member. Also about the same between the firewall and the right rear head.
Putting it in and removing it was only possible without the trans (T56) as I almost had to have the engine/trans at a 45 degree angle and then had problems moving it around to sit correctly.
I would strongly recommend the Holley 302-2 or any other swap pan. I have gone through a F-Body, Notched F-Body, CTS-V and now a Holley 302-2 pan on my 71 A-Body.
BC
Putting it in and removing it was only possible without the trans (T56) as I almost had to have the engine/trans at a 45 degree angle and then had problems moving it around to sit correctly.
I would strongly recommend the Holley 302-2 or any other swap pan. I have gone through a F-Body, Notched F-Body, CTS-V and now a Holley 302-2 pan on my 71 A-Body.
BC
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I used these trans dapt plates with the holley pan, I'm as close as possible without touching the frame. Using standard poly motor mounts also. No floor modification needed for the 80E BUT I also have a HPI Customs frame kit with trans crossmember it probably has a lot to do with the extra clearance.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969...d=#moreDetails
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969...d=#moreDetails
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Thank you all for the replies I have been busy and forgot that I posted this. I do have the Holley revised pan -2 I will try the generic 3/8" adapter that picture has the pan very low which is where I would like it.
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Use the new 302-2 Holley oil pan. Use generic 3/8" adapters like the ones at the link below for your sbc motor mounts. Section your sbc frame brackets to effectively shorten the overall height by 1/4". Just cut and reweld them together. Finally redrill your cross member moving the mount rearward. This lowers the engine because of the compound angle of the crossmember. You may want relocate the mounts first before modifying the frame bracket to see how much you gain before modifying the frame brackets. This means the motor goes in and out a few times unfortunately.
Use this adapter but redrill the crossmember. Install engine, mark holes and redrill.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...parts/12622HKR
This will get the oil pan within 3/8" from cross member and minimize driveline angle issues. I ran into the same issues with all the adapters raising the motor too much. Bolt in options are convenient but not best suited in this case.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...8-800x600-.jpg
What tranny crossmember? Which sbc mounts are you using, 307 or 350? Shoot me a phone number, I'd be happy to talk it over with you.
Use this adapter but redrill the crossmember. Install engine, mark holes and redrill.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...parts/12622HKR
This will get the oil pan within 3/8" from cross member and minimize driveline angle issues. I ran into the same issues with all the adapters raising the motor too much. Bolt in options are convenient but not best suited in this case.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...8-800x600-.jpg
What tranny crossmember? Which sbc mounts are you using, 307 or 350? Shoot me a phone number, I'd be happy to talk it over with you.
Andrew
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I used the hooker mounts and headers. I had to fabricate my own transmission crossmember. Headers and exhaust would not clear on my 1971 chevelle. I am using a
T56. I did not have to cut the tunnel but massage with a BFH. For me, exhaust clearance was the biggest issue. I am using an F-body pan. Tight fit but I like it
T56. I did not have to cut the tunnel but massage with a BFH. For me, exhaust clearance was the biggest issue. I am using an F-body pan. Tight fit but I like it
As Bczee said, and as I would agree with, the f-body pan does fit, BUT it make the clearance between the heads and the firewall really tight. This isn't so much a problem when driving, but if the transmission needs to be removed (to replace the clutch, for instance) the passenger side head will hit the firewall when the engine is tilted down. Again, this may not bother some people, but it was a deal breaker for me, which is why I used the AutoKraft pan (the Holley pan was not available when I did my swap).
Andrew
Andrew
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For the transmission crossmember, that will largely depend on the transmission you choose. Most of the time you can get away with modifying a stock crossmember. No matter what you do, you will want to position the back of the transmission as high in the tunnel as possible. You will be limited by the slip yoke to floor contact, but all you need is a 1/4".
Andrew
Andrew