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Oil Bypass Barbell

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Old Yesterday | 10:19 AM
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Default Oil Bypass Barbell

Is there any point to getting a name brand over an OEM?
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Old Yesterday | 02:24 PM
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Just get a metal one with o-rings. Seals better and won't deteriorate like plastic can.

That said, there are a number of them on the market, some are priced ridiculously. Here's one that is well made and isn't silly expensive. No need to pay for a specific name.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deral...ZUMmdNTEpJZ0RB

And Speedway even makes a less expensive one that would work well too.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-LS...ug,589593.html
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Old Yesterday | 03:04 PM
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There is a little less oil restriction as the bar of the bar bell is much small being metal. I think they also contour them, so they do not have the hard 90-degree bend. Some also have a screw end so you just put a 1/4-inch bolt in it and pull it out in the future.
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Old Yesterday | 04:35 PM
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The new metal ones are cool and all, but I think they solved a problem that didn't exist. I have never seen the plastic style barbell fail. Every one I pulled from an old or high-mile engine was still in there pretty tight, and the O-rings still intact. I do suggest buying from a reputable source like Summit, TSP, or BTR. I usually get the BTR brand from Summit, but any brand from those sources will work just fine. I just wouldn't buy any car parts from Amazon or eBay.

My LS1 started losing oil pressure and leaking internally last year. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I will be looking for the cause just out of curiosity. If it was the barbell that caused the pressure loss, then that means it took over 25 years for it to fail. How long do you need your engine to last before you have to rebuild it?
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Old Yesterday | 04:42 PM
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The oring is probably the weakest link and that's common to all of them.
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Old Yesterday | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Double06
There is a little less oil restriction as the bar of the bar bell is much small being metal. I think they also contour them, so they do not have the hard 90-degree bend. Some also have a screw end so you just put a 1/4-inch bolt in it and pull it out in the future.

I saw the ICT Billet plug

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551284-ls
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Old Yesterday | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wannafbody
The oring is probably the weakest link and that's common to all of them.
Yeah, seems like it. I would assume you could just replace the o-ring.
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Old Yesterday | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich-L79
Just get a metal one with o-rings. Seals better and won't deteriorate like plastic can.

That said, there are a number of them on the market, some are priced ridiculously. Here's one that is well made and isn't silly expensive. No need to pay for a specific name.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deral...ZUMmdNTEpJZ0RB

And Speedway even makes a less expensive one that would work well too.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-LS...ug,589593.html
Thanks man
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Old Yesterday | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Utinator
The new metal ones are cool and all, but I think they solved a problem that didn't exist. I have never seen the plastic style barbell fail. Every one I pulled from an old or high-mile engine was still in there pretty tight, and the O-rings still intact. I do suggest buying from a reputable source like Summit, TSP, or BTR. I usually get the BTR brand from Summit, but any brand from those sources will work just fine. I just wouldn't buy any car parts from Amazon or eBay.

My LS1 started losing oil pressure and leaking internally last year. I haven't taken it apart yet, but I will be looking for the cause just out of curiosity. If it was the barbell that caused the pressure loss, then that means it took over 25 years for it to fail. How long do you need your engine to last before you have to rebuild it?

Good to know, thanks man.
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