brake line size
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On The Tree
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From: ill.
brake line size Starting to plumb my brakes and not sure what size line to use, or sizes.
Simple 4 wheel disc setup, power booster and proportioning valve. I picked
up some 3/16 brake line, but it looks a little small. Cars a 68 firebird.
Thanks Bob
Simple 4 wheel disc setup, power booster and proportioning valve. I picked
up some 3/16 brake line, but it looks a little small. Cars a 68 firebird.
Thanks Bob
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Are you using OE stuff, Wilwood, Aerospace or...? Most of the time it's 3/16 but looks small compared to rusty OE. Sometime it can be 1/4. Some use bubble flare on newer stuff which is Metric or inverted flare which is SAE. Modern OE stuff is metric.
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System Plumbing
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Q: Can I use the stock brake lines with Wilwood kits and what is the benefit of stainless steel brake lines?
A:
Yes, but they require 1/8” - 27 NPT adapters to fit the calipers. We recommend use of high quality #3 or #4 braided stainless steel flex lines as replacements to the stock rubber lines for their added strength, resistance to abrasion, and reduced expansion under pressure. When replacing drum brakes on the rear of a vehicle equipped with a solid rear axle, it is advisable to use a solid hard line across the rear axle. A 3/16” solid line will use 3/8-24 flare nuts to make a connection, and can be connected to a Wilwood caliper by installing 1/8-27 NPT to 3/8-24 IF adapters into the calipers.
Wilwood Stainless steel lines are designed as direct replacement parts for OE lines. The replacement lines typically follow the same routing as the stock lines. While the flexible brake line will accept slight modifications to the intended vehicle, any excessive lowering or lifting of the vehicle may make the lines unsuitable for use on that particular application. Also, some lines may include provisions for routing attachments on the stock suspension. If an aftermarket suspension is on the vehicle, the brake line mounting points may differ from the OE suspension. If alternate routing or modifications are required, it is the sole responsibility of the installer to assure that the lines are not binding or touching any part of the suspension or drive train nor are they being stretched beyond their limit. Inspect the line routing through the entire range of suspension travel, both up and down and left-to-right. If there is any question as to whether or not the install is correct, do not drive the vehicle until there is absolute assurance the lines are safely routed. If you have any questions, please contact a Wilwood Technician at 805-388-1188 or email Sales/Tech Support.
Q: What size brake lines should I use?
A:
Use 3/16” steel line wherever possible during new construction. Use flex lines only where necessary.
Didn't see the answer to your question?
Call Wilwood Technical Support; we're glad to help.
Phone: (805) 388-1188
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Q: Can I use the stock brake lines with Wilwood kits and what is the benefit of stainless steel brake lines?
A:
Yes, but they require 1/8” - 27 NPT adapters to fit the calipers. We recommend use of high quality #3 or #4 braided stainless steel flex lines as replacements to the stock rubber lines for their added strength, resistance to abrasion, and reduced expansion under pressure. When replacing drum brakes on the rear of a vehicle equipped with a solid rear axle, it is advisable to use a solid hard line across the rear axle. A 3/16” solid line will use 3/8-24 flare nuts to make a connection, and can be connected to a Wilwood caliper by installing 1/8-27 NPT to 3/8-24 IF adapters into the calipers.
Wilwood Stainless steel lines are designed as direct replacement parts for OE lines. The replacement lines typically follow the same routing as the stock lines. While the flexible brake line will accept slight modifications to the intended vehicle, any excessive lowering or lifting of the vehicle may make the lines unsuitable for use on that particular application. Also, some lines may include provisions for routing attachments on the stock suspension. If an aftermarket suspension is on the vehicle, the brake line mounting points may differ from the OE suspension. If alternate routing or modifications are required, it is the sole responsibility of the installer to assure that the lines are not binding or touching any part of the suspension or drive train nor are they being stretched beyond their limit. Inspect the line routing through the entire range of suspension travel, both up and down and left-to-right. If there is any question as to whether or not the install is correct, do not drive the vehicle until there is absolute assurance the lines are safely routed. If you have any questions, please contact a Wilwood Technician at 805-388-1188 or email Sales/Tech Support.
Q: What size brake lines should I use?
A:
Use 3/16” steel line wherever possible during new construction. Use flex lines only where necessary.
Didn't see the answer to your question?
Call Wilwood Technical Support; we're glad to help.
Phone: (805) 388-1188
Brake lines For all my projects I use 3/16" SAE lines. Auto Zone carries an olive colored line that is a little softer which lends itself to bends and flaring. Be very careful when you buy the lines that you don't get metric. When they hand you the line look to make sure that it's not bubble flare. I can't say enough about quality flaring tools. Mine are over 50 years old and work fine where people have purchased newer stuff that is junk. There is a fine art to making good double flares. I alway inspect my flares with a magnifying glass looking for cracks and small slivers that will prevent a good seal. As far as stainless goes...forget it! Very hard to double flare and serves no real purpose other than bling. Building a high dollar '32 roadster, yes. Building a full body car nope.
For all my projects I use 3/16" SAE lines. Auto Zone carries an olive colored line that is a little softer which lends itself to bends and flaring. Be very careful when you buy the lines that you don't get metric. When they hand you the line look to make sure that it's not bubble flare. I can't say enough about quality flaring tools. Mine are over 50 years old and work fine where people have purchased newer stuff that is junk. There is a fine art to making good double flares. I alway inspect my flares with a magnifying glass looking for cracks and small slivers that will prevent a good seal. As far as stainless goes...forget it! Very hard to double flare and serves no real purpose other than bling. Building a high dollar '32 roadster, yes. Building a full body car nope.
This stuff is great. It doesn't crack when flared.
As for fittings, I usually just go into the back of the store and start matching stuff up. A simple flaring tool with the double flare nipples works well, even if it is supposed to be "double bubble". The downside of a poor flare job is a leak, which can sometimes be fixed with tightening, and sometimes has to be cut out and done again.
The flare tool I use looks like this
Flare 8 fittings, and you will be a pro.
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