LT1 4th Gen L96 Conversion

Linelock has been installed as well and mostly wired. I built the blower bracketry using 5/8" aluminum plate and a Katech tensioner. I won't claim it's the best setup on Earth but it should do the job just fine. I painted the engine bay while I had the engine out for the blower bracket build.


I also added ID850 injectors. Wiring has been ran using a modified PSI harness, I added a few more pins for post cat O2 sensors and evap control. I'm doing everything I can to make sure this will have no issues when it is time for emissions testing. Hopefully there aren't too many hiccups with that.
Last for now is that the core support has been modified to fit a Griffin dual pass 27x15.5 radiator


Next up is the gauges and finishing off the wiring.
Last edited by MorePSI; Feb 25, 2016 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Photos stopped showing up
Front:


Rear:


Trying to get both while avoiding the C10 parked next to it:

Sitting on BMR/Koni combo (tubular suspension that's a hodgepodge of brands, doesn't really matter for how it sits). Tires are Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, 275/35r18 in front and 325/30r19 in back. Wheels are iForged TE14s, 18x9.5 front and 19x11 rear C5 fitment.
Last edited by MorePSI; Feb 25, 2016 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Photos stopped showing up
ANYWAYS, what's important here is what's been done to the Camaro. The car is wired and the interior is mostly back in, I'll be testing that this weekend after a couple more crimp 1/0 lugs arrive to finish grounding everything and hopefully shortly after that I'll be starting it up for the first time. Ended up going to Marshall stepper motor series gauges, US made at a decent price to the point where using a Lingenfelter black box would have cost more for the factory cluster.
Had cut the core support out and added a boxed stringer which ended up being redone again due to the lack of room for any kind of filter and the cobra head elbow I originally anticipated using was too thick even trimmed down as tight as it could go. I put the cart ahead of the horse fabricating without having all of the parts for mockup, oh well no big deal. Cut the box into lugs and redid it, everything fits. Using a Griffin dual pass 27.5" x 15.5" radiator with 2 1.25" rows and SPAL fans.
Hood will need a formed steel blister, couple minutes on my mini power hammer had this bulge formed up from some scrap to see how I felt about just adding a lump to the hood instead of building a cowl. I'll rework it into something shapelier since the green mushroom of death will require a bulge as well.
My dad ended up building a new garage at his own house so I was able to get some of his cars moved out, which also opened up my 4 post lift and made my life easier. First time I had it outside with any room to actually see how it looks with everything so far. This also gave me room to bring my '70 Camaro back inside.
Made some basic mounts for the Treadstone intercooler, the mounts are also gusseted but I didn't take pictures of the finished product (I'm not too great at documenting the full process to anything I do)
Which brings us to today. The engine bay needs some tidying up, I'm not a huge fan of the bright red 1/0 gauge cable running from the 140 amp alternator to the main power junction block being so obvious. I'm also not sure why I went with a 140 amp alternator and 1/0 gauge cable since this is a manual window, manual lock, no courtesy light car with just a basic radio in it but hey whatever it's done. The battery is in the trunk in a Taylor box so that the tech inspector hopefully has nothing to complain about. The charge piping will eventually get welded to cut down on silicon couplers, for now I figure I'd like the flexibility in case I want to change something down the road or need to fix something since I already found out that the first BOV flange didn't fit the Tial Q worth a damn (that's what I get for being lazy and ordering a 3" flange instead of opening up the Tial provided 2.5" flange like I ended up doing in the end anyway). The fans will need some proper brackets made as well since I hate using the nylon through straps. I'll probably make some nicer brackets for the radiator as well since they were very much a "get something to hold the radiator for now" type of deal. I'll also probably bend new master cylinder to line lock and proportioning valve lines as well, I'm not very impressed with the fitment from the kit they came in.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Pulled the T56 back out, yoke didn't fit in the tail housing. I don't remember putting in a new bushing and the bushing did look like it had been ran but sure enough it needed to be honed out like a new bushing had been pressed in. I could've done that without pulling the transmission but noticed that reverse is a bit sticky in the gate so figured I might as well partially tear it back down to take a look. Couldn't find anything wrong other than possibly an issue with the shift rail maybe being drilled off by .005 or so by Tremec as the detent is not perfectly centered in any position. The shift rail had been replaced (stupid story) so it wouldn't be outside the realm of possibility but this could also be within manufacturing tolerance. I'll run it for now and keep an eye on it. Can always do a T56 magnum or something later if it proves to be a major problem.
After getting the transmission back in, I ran a couple engine to body grounds, cleaned up some wiring in the engine bay a little more, rerouted the red cable from the alternator to the junction block to hide it better, installed the heater hoses, and added a radiator recovery tank. I couldn't find a good place for it in the engine bay and didn't want anything to block airflow if possible so mounted it right behind the intercooler tank. Waiting on a fitting to show up so the NiCopp line going from the radiator to the tank has not been finish bent hence why it is kind of haphazard.
So I picked up another reducer, a couple 3" cats, and a flowmaster 2 3" to 1 4" merge to make a Y-pipe. Turned out okay, nicely TIG'd stainless would've been better but it fits tight to the floor so it will do the job. I still need to weld in bungs for the dual UEGOs and post cat O2s.
Waiting on a couple fittings still to finish things off enough to start the engine for the first time. I've preoiled and cranked a couple times to keep the engine lubed, hopefully issues are minimal at start up.
Last edited by MorePSI; Mar 7, 2016 at 12:07 AM. Reason: spelling
Interior is almost completely back together, made some new vent/gauge pods that are drop in replacements for the stock pieces. Wanted something a little different than an A pillar pod or flat panels.
I also have the 4" exhaust finished off
As of right now I'm just waiting for my driveshaft to be finished and I'll be ready to test start it.
Finally have the driveshaft in my possession and installed. 3 1/2" diameter .125 wall aluminum shaft with a black chromoly Sonnax yoke and solid cross Spicer 1350 U joints. Tight fit with the torque arm, drive shaft loop and exhaust but everything clears. My phone is in permanent potato mode for pictures, I can't fault it though since I'm not easy on phones.
Cleaned up the last of the wiring, checked all sensors, both fans for fuctionality. I added silicone hose for vacuum/boost references which I'll need to make some nice hold downs for to make the routing a little cleaner. Using a 6 port vacuum block that after a little machining mounts using two of the intake bolts.
This was the last part I was waiting on for a test start which is the plan for tomorrow. I have a list as long as my arm of things I still want to do with it. In order of importance that includes a better radiator hold down setup/cover that will be dimpled since I need to find some kind of use for the set of dimple dies taking up a drawer in my toolbox. A PCV catch can of some sort. I also want to build a strut tower brace to help regain some of the strength lost in cutting the core support out. Eventually it'll need a basic cage, at least the main hoop and some down bars in back so that I can throw in some Willans harnesses that I have sitting around. I also need to find a couple nicer interior plastics to replace a few of the pieces which have deep gouges and cigarette burns from previous owners (cleaned out at least 2 packs' worth of cigarettes from under the carpet when I stripped the interior). Last but not least, eventually paint and body would be good.
For now though, I want it running and licensed so I can get back to my '70 Camaro which has sat for far too long.
AWSOME DASHBOARD GAUGES
I have some inspiration as to what I want to do to my car.






