LS1 into s2000 swap
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Memphis, tn
Just got the ls1 back from the machine shop. Taking it to another machine shop about 3 hours away to have the bottom end assembled. I ended up going with Mahle pistons and rods and pistons, all factory spec, flat top. Stock compression, Having pat G spec a cam for me as we speak. Next up is to have the t56 torn down and inspected completely and replace all the damaged parts, maybe build it. Not sure yet. Bank account isn't looking too healthy. Looking for some ported 243 heads and a fast 102mm intake manifold and throttle body, should have the bottom end back in about 2 weeks, Still not sure on what I want to do with my motor mounts. I don't like the way the f body mounts are designed. I believe it was the gto mounts where you literally sit the engine on top of the mount that is sitting perfectly flat along the k member? Sort of like how the s197 mustangs are set up. Any input on that? here are pics of where it stands
The one on top is C5/C6 'Vette (just got a set for my own swap project, hehe). Dunno what the one on the bottom is, maybe Novak-adapt (also looks like they're for an old-school SBC, on top of LS mount adapters).
GTO mounts are similar, but if I'm not mistaken, asymmetric, and possibly NLA.
GTO mounts are similar, but if I'm not mistaken, asymmetric, and possibly NLA.
Last edited by vertigosity; Mar 13, 2015 at 10:51 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 669
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From: Memphis, tn
The one on top is C5/C6 'Vette (just got a set for my own swap project, hehe). Dunno what the one on the bottom is, maybe Novak-adapt (also looks like they're for an old-school SBC, on top of LS mount adapters).
GTO mounts are similar, but if I'm not mistaken, asymmetric, and possibly NLA.
GTO mounts are similar, but if I'm not mistaken, asymmetric, and possibly NLA.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, tn
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Verdad Gallardo I'm interested in a more traditional mount as well rather than the hard mount that I bought using Import Muscle's kit.
For the first go-round, I will use their mount just to get my swap done and bugs shaken out. I bought a second LS1 that I plan to build up this summer; of which I'm assuming will rattle my teeth in the car with the solid mount.
I may move over to the "Thomas Creation" mounts with the built motor. I like the adjustability of the traditional mount designed into "Thomas Creation" mounts so taht the motor can be positioned either to not have to drill out the main support in the engine bay, or can be postioned so that a T56 or TR6060 can be in the OEM position in the car.
Only thing I'd modify with these mounts is that I'd use studs in the block, position the motor and trans so that the driveline is angled and positioned as needed, bolt everything down with nuts, and then tack in some "stops" on the mount plates so the engine can't wiggle on the vertical or horizontal planes if any of the nuts loosen up (plus it makes repositioning the motor back into the mounts that much easier if I ever need to pull it out).
For the first go-round, I will use their mount just to get my swap done and bugs shaken out. I bought a second LS1 that I plan to build up this summer; of which I'm assuming will rattle my teeth in the car with the solid mount.
I may move over to the "Thomas Creation" mounts with the built motor. I like the adjustability of the traditional mount designed into "Thomas Creation" mounts so taht the motor can be positioned either to not have to drill out the main support in the engine bay, or can be postioned so that a T56 or TR6060 can be in the OEM position in the car.
Only thing I'd modify with these mounts is that I'd use studs in the block, position the motor and trans so that the driveline is angled and positioned as needed, bolt everything down with nuts, and then tack in some "stops" on the mount plates so the engine can't wiggle on the vertical or horizontal planes if any of the nuts loosen up (plus it makes repositioning the motor back into the mounts that much easier if I ever need to pull it out).
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, tn
I'm interested in a more traditional mount as well rather than the hard mount that I bought using Import Muscle's kit.
For the first go-round, I will use their mount just to get my swap done and bugs shaken out. I bought a second LS1 that I plan to build up this summer; of which I'm assuming will rattle my teeth in the car with the solid mount.
I may move over to the "Thomas Creation" mounts with the built motor. I like the adjustability of the traditional mount designed into "Thomas Creation" mounts so taht the motor can be positioned either to not have to drill out the main support in the engine bay, or can be postioned so that a T56 or TR6060 can be in the OEM position in the car.
Only thing I'd modify with these mounts is that I'd use studs in the block, position the motor and trans so that the driveline is angled and positioned as needed, bolt everything down with nuts, and then tack in some "stops" on the mount plates so the engine can't wiggle on the vertical or horizontal planes if any of the nuts loosen up (plus it makes repositioning the motor back into the mounts that much easier if I ever need to pull it out).
For the first go-round, I will use their mount just to get my swap done and bugs shaken out. I bought a second LS1 that I plan to build up this summer; of which I'm assuming will rattle my teeth in the car with the solid mount.
I may move over to the "Thomas Creation" mounts with the built motor. I like the adjustability of the traditional mount designed into "Thomas Creation" mounts so taht the motor can be positioned either to not have to drill out the main support in the engine bay, or can be postioned so that a T56 or TR6060 can be in the OEM position in the car.
Only thing I'd modify with these mounts is that I'd use studs in the block, position the motor and trans so that the driveline is angled and positioned as needed, bolt everything down with nuts, and then tack in some "stops" on the mount plates so the engine can't wiggle on the vertical or horizontal planes if any of the nuts loosen up (plus it makes repositioning the motor back into the mounts that much easier if I ever need to pull it out).