P0335 p0336 code troubles
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P0335 p0336 code troubles Alright guys, this has me really stumped. I did a lm7 swap into my fbody. Now I got the motor, trans and pcm from the same truck, year 2000. I bought a brand new standalone harness from ls1wiringharness.com. had my computer reflashed by a guy who runs the site called lt1swap.com
Got the harness all wired in correct , all ground in the spots the harness instructions said to. Connected my pcm and went to start. It stumbled the first few times which I thought was normal for an initial start up. Finally got it to start (mind you this was with a semi charged battery and I hadn't ran the charge wire from alternator to battery yet) well when it started it ran kind of rough. No miss fire code but had codes p0335 and p0336. I figured maybe my crank sensor I bought was defective so I bought a new ac Delco one. Replaced it and same thing. I can clear the code and turn key on and after one time cranking the codes come back. I did a continuity test from crank sensor plug to pins in connector to computer, that all checked out. Re checked my grounds. Found a flow chart on here and it's leading to replace ecm. I also read that a low or weak battery could cause the same issue. So I charged up my battery over night. Hooked up my charge wire and went to start. It cranks and fires for a sec or 2 then dies. So for the hell of it I took off the charge wire from battery and the car starts but runs rough and has the codes still. I've made sure all pin locations are correct on my new harness blue connector to pcm and that's fine. Even had the old truck harness still to double check. Now my rpm gauge is reading. And with my power probe tool, I can probe the signal wire coming from crank sensor while running and it flashes a ground signal rapidly. Which I'd assume is it giving the computer the signal. So am I to assume that the computer then is bad? The motor ran perfect before pulled from truck. I didn't mess around with the bottom end or reluctor wheel. A installed a new cam and lined up the timing dots with cam and crank gear. I figured if that was not right I would have a misfire code(s) I'm also using pcm # 16220610 and the harness stated to use #12200411. I've heard there is no difference between those two. I'm just at a loss of what to do and I've been looking for the past week for a little guidence. I know this is a long paragraph but I wanted to list as much info as possible to explain my situation. Any one have any ideas?
Got the harness all wired in correct , all ground in the spots the harness instructions said to. Connected my pcm and went to start. It stumbled the first few times which I thought was normal for an initial start up. Finally got it to start (mind you this was with a semi charged battery and I hadn't ran the charge wire from alternator to battery yet) well when it started it ran kind of rough. No miss fire code but had codes p0335 and p0336. I figured maybe my crank sensor I bought was defective so I bought a new ac Delco one. Replaced it and same thing. I can clear the code and turn key on and after one time cranking the codes come back. I did a continuity test from crank sensor plug to pins in connector to computer, that all checked out. Re checked my grounds. Found a flow chart on here and it's leading to replace ecm. I also read that a low or weak battery could cause the same issue. So I charged up my battery over night. Hooked up my charge wire and went to start. It cranks and fires for a sec or 2 then dies. So for the hell of it I took off the charge wire from battery and the car starts but runs rough and has the codes still. I've made sure all pin locations are correct on my new harness blue connector to pcm and that's fine. Even had the old truck harness still to double check. Now my rpm gauge is reading. And with my power probe tool, I can probe the signal wire coming from crank sensor while running and it flashes a ground signal rapidly. Which I'd assume is it giving the computer the signal. So am I to assume that the computer then is bad? The motor ran perfect before pulled from truck. I didn't mess around with the bottom end or reluctor wheel. A installed a new cam and lined up the timing dots with cam and crank gear. I figured if that was not right I would have a misfire code(s) I'm also using pcm # 16220610 and the harness stated to use #12200411. I've heard there is no difference between those two. I'm just at a loss of what to do and I've been looking for the past week for a little guidence. I know this is a long paragraph but I wanted to list as much info as possible to explain my situation. Any one have any ideas?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 372
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From: So. WIS
Starts and runs for 2 sec; Did you program out the VATS on the computer. This is the anti-theft and this is how it behaves. If it is still "ON" it may be the cause of all of your issues.
You stated that the driveline was pulled from the truck, and ran fine. The '84 Z would be the OBD I system. (EPROM chip) no body module. So when the initial tuning is done, no need to worry about the VIN programing into the computer. I'm also assuming that you have a DBC system on it with the truck manifold.
So, do you have a vacuum leak? Were all the gaskets replaced? Makes the engine run funky and eventually will die.
You stated that the driveline was pulled from the truck, and ran fine. The '84 Z would be the OBD I system. (EPROM chip) no body module. So when the initial tuning is done, no need to worry about the VIN programing into the computer. I'm also assuming that you have a DBC system on it with the truck manifold.
So, do you have a vacuum leak? Were all the gaskets replaced? Makes the engine run funky and eventually will die.
Last edited by gsjimmy; May 9, 2017 at 08:52 AM.
