Fuel pump/tank advice needed
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Fuel pump/tank advice needed I am currently putting a list together of parts I'll need to install a modern Ls type engine and t56 trsnsmission into my 1979 C10 short bed (fleetside)
My question is this:
What would be the safest option to do to my fuel tank that would allow me to run a higher pressure electronic fuel pump?
My 97 4wd suburban has a submersible electronic fuel pump but my 79 does not.
Thanks in advance and to be up front i don't mind it being a little more complicated vs easy but cheesy/possibly dangerous. I don't want to cut corners when it comes to something that could burn it down
Thanks
Sq Body
My question is this:
What would be the safest option to do to my fuel tank that would allow me to run a higher pressure electronic fuel pump?
My 97 4wd suburban has a submersible electronic fuel pump but my 79 does not.
Thanks in advance and to be up front i don't mind it being a little more complicated vs easy but cheesy/possibly dangerous. I don't want to cut corners when it comes to something that could burn it down
Thanks
Sq Body
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 732
Likes: 1
From: alburnett, iowa
I went with a suburban tank that was efi throttle body 350. To make it work you need the 2 crossmembers in suburban tank in truck frame. Its between rear end and bumper. But then filler neck has to be figured out. I built my truck from parts, 4 dr shortbed 1/2ton 2wd. EASY way for you is to buy a sending unit for 87-91 squarebody work truck as they were tbi injected. Use that and just buy a punp with 60lbs pressure rating. I bought mounts and shorty headers on ebay made it easy. Not plates for mounts but actual fabbed mounts. Slotted holes on block side & thru bolt, lots of adjustment. Lt1Swap.com can do pcm and has on his site how to do engine harness. Fairly easy after you get into it but little intimidating at first. Good luck
I used the weld in kit from vette works, weld on a ring to your factory tank and install a f body ls1 pump. Works great and if you don't want to weld on your tank you could just screw the plate down and silicone it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I went with a suburban tank that was efi throttle body 350. To make it work you need the 2 crossmembers in suburban tank in truck frame. Its between rear end and bumper. But then filler neck has to be figured out. I built my truck from parts, 4 dr shortbed 1/2ton 2wd. EASY way for you is to buy a sending unit for 87-91 squarebody work truck as they were tbi injected. Use that and just buy a punp with 60lbs pressure rating. I bought mounts and shorty headers on ebay made it easy. Not plates for mounts but actual fabbed mounts. Slotted holes on block side & thru bolt, lots of adjustment. Lt1Swap.com can do pcm and has on his site how to do engine harness. Fairly easy after you get into it but little intimidating at first. Good luck
BTW your skylark looks cool and Im sure your MPG will go way up
I will keep you posted if that's ok?
3 years now with my vette works LS1 fuel bucket... No issues. It's quiet and I've run my car down to an 1/8 tank with no issues.
If I could have done a setup like this I would have. Unfortunately the wagon has a different tank which makes it impossible to do it. I also went with the Spectra EFI tank on the Firebird before coming across this swap idea.
On edit: I'm trying to keep as many OE parts as possible for roadside repair/convenience sake. I went with the F-bod radiator and fans in both the Firebird and the Chevelle. I'm doing an in-tank EP381 fuel pump on my wagon and I replaced the Chinese made 381 knock-off in the Spectra tank with an EP381.
To each there own and do what you want, it's your car, but that's the rationale behind what I did.
On edit: I'm trying to keep as many OE parts as possible for roadside repair/convenience sake. I went with the F-bod radiator and fans in both the Firebird and the Chevelle. I'm doing an in-tank EP381 fuel pump on my wagon and I replaced the Chinese made 381 knock-off in the Spectra tank with an EP381.
To each there own and do what you want, it's your car, but that's the rationale behind what I did.
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If I could have done a setup like this I would have. Unfortunately the wagon has a different tank which makes it impossible to do it. I also went with the Spectra EFI tank on the Firebird before coming across this swap idea.
On edit: I'm trying to keep as many OE parts as possible for roadside repair/convenience sake. I went with the F-bod radiator and fans in both the Firebird and the Chevelle. I'm doing an in-tank EP381 fuel pump on my wagon and I replaced the Chinese made 381 knock-off in the Spectra tank with an EP381.
To each there own and do what you want, it's your car, but that's the rationale behind what I did.
On edit: I'm trying to keep as many OE parts as possible for roadside repair/convenience sake. I went with the F-bod radiator and fans in both the Firebird and the Chevelle. I'm doing an in-tank EP381 fuel pump on my wagon and I replaced the Chinese made 381 knock-off in the Spectra tank with an EP381.
To each there own and do what you want, it's your car, but that's the rationale behind what I did.
That link is the first one ive seen that shows how to shorten the bucket...real cool! That should help even more people. I wanted to cut my bucket but I was able to just fit it in. I recessed my bucket so it wouldn't hit the trunk or cut a hole in the trunk.
I have no issues with what ever people do..it's just the vette works/ factory fuel bucket method is one of the best ways to solve the fuel issue with swaps..especially in a pickup truck where their is a ton of room. Thanks for posting that link..it should be stickied in the fuel section.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 328
Likes: 3
It will leach into the fuel system and raise hell
Can you please explain further how the silicone will "leak" into the fuel system? While its still wet or when its dry? Not trying to get into a pissing match here just don't agree or fully understand why you say that.
TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 821
Likes: 4
From: Elkridge MD
From the Permatex website:
Can I use the Permatex® Ultra Blue® RTV to seal a gas gauge-sending unit to a gas tank?
-
No, Ultra Blue® is a silicone-based product, that will offer a good seal, and has good resistance to oil and coolant, however, silicones are not recommended for use in a gasoline environment. The gasoline will attack the product. Permatex® offers the solvent based Form-A-Gasket® products or MotoSeal® #29132 that are designed for applications in a gasoline environment.
Can I use the Permatex® Ultra Blue® RTV to seal a gas gauge-sending unit to a gas tank?
-
No, Ultra Blue® is a silicone-based product, that will offer a good seal, and has good resistance to oil and coolant, however, silicones are not recommended for use in a gasoline environment. The gasoline will attack the product. Permatex® offers the solvent based Form-A-Gasket® products or MotoSeal® #29132 that are designed for applications in a gasoline environment.
From the Permatex website:
Can I use the Permatex® Ultra Blue® RTV to seal a gas gauge-sending unit to a gas tank?
-
No, Ultra Blue® is a silicone-based product, that will offer a good seal, and has good resistance to oil and coolant, however, silicones are not recommended for use in a gasoline environment. The gasoline will attack the product. Permatex® offers the solvent based Form-A-Gasket® products or MotoSeal® #29132 that are designed for applications in a gasoline environment.
Can I use the Permatex® Ultra Blue® RTV to seal a gas gauge-sending unit to a gas tank?
-
No, Ultra Blue® is a silicone-based product, that will offer a good seal, and has good resistance to oil and coolant, however, silicones are not recommended for use in a gasoline environment. The gasoline will attack the product. Permatex® offers the solvent based Form-A-Gasket® products or MotoSeal® #29132 that are designed for applications in a gasoline environment.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant Specially formulated for superior fluid resistance, this polyester urethane based gasketing compound withstands extreme temperature changes without hardening. Its non-setting, non-hardening character remains tacky even with rapid changes in temperature, enabling repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Suitable as either a gasket maker or dressing, PermaShield™ seals surface imperfections between metal parts and is ideal in high performance applications. With an operating temperature range of -60° to 500°F (-50° to 260°C), this compound resists common engine fluids, including oil, gasoline, ethanol, water and anti-freeze and prevents contamination from moisture and dust.