I have a 1994 Camaro and I swapped a 1998 LS1 /auto and also used a complete 1998 Z28 engine and interior body harness and also swapped out the dash and console.

Here is an update on my swap. I decided to use all the engine and body harness off the 1998 Z28. I have everything installed on the car. Well last night I turn the key to "on" position and all the lights on the gauges lit up but I noticed that there were off (battery and fuel level indicator was very low). I tried to start the car but nothing happened. Didn't hear the fuel pump and didn't even crank. The "security" light was on for a couple of seconds after I took out the key. I don't have a VATS bypass yet (cant find one). Could that be the problem? Don't know if the VATS will disable the fuel pump though. From what I've read, VATS disables the injectors and not the pump. I'm not too sure about hat one though. It got dark out so I decided I will do some research first and tackle this again this weekend.

Should I hear the fuel pump (or fuel relay) engage when I turn the key to "on" position? I don't know what else to check on my wiring. I guess the main thing right now is making the engine crank. What else could cause it not to crank? If you guys can think of any other possible cause or wires to check please let me know. I can't believe I'm stuck again. I really miss driving my car... Thanks in advance!

Engine bay

 

WOW! That's a huge undertaking to transplant the complete wiring system from one car to another and get all of the details right.
Hopefully it's something small and easy, because it could be very difficult to diagnose over the internet.

If you swapped steering columns and hooked it all up right, the VATS shouldn't be an issue. If you buy one of the VATS bypass circuits, that will take care of the injectors, but you'll still have trouble with the VATS starter relay.

BUT, your initial problem is something else because you should hear the fuel pump relay energize for 2 seconds when you turn the key on. VATS doesn't affect that. So it sounds like something does not have 12 volts. Do you get a check engine light with the key on?

 

John, thanks for replying back! It was a pain swapping interior and engine harness but I guess in the future (if this thing ever runs) I can troubleshoot it as a 1998 and not as a 94. I'm hoping Im right on this though . My 1994 Wiring was all messed up so I decided to change everything. I did not swap the steering column because I couldn't find a 1998 one. I waspped out the dash,gagues and center console.

If I get a 1998 steering column and a BCM out of the same car, will I still have any problems starting the car? I found a 1998 Z28 steering Column with keys and the guy is willing to trade the BCM that came with the car with the one I have now. Should I buy the column and replace mine?

On my cranking problem. I dont remember hearing the fuel pump relay engage when I turn the key to "on" position. I was told to run a hot lead from the steering column (ignition?) to the starter so I can check if it will crank or not. I'm not sure how to do this though. Which wire(s) should I tap into (on the column and on the starter) to check if the engine will crank?

I do get a check engine light when I trun the key to "on" position. The security light remains on for a couple of seconds after taking the key out. I was told that this is normal. Not sure on this one either.

So if the fuel pump does not engage when I turn the key on, which wires should I be checking?

Thanks again!

 

Check your fuel pump relay wires coming out of the PCM. If you have 12V leaving the relay then your pump is bad but that wouldnt effect not getting any cranking at all. Is you battery dead or very close to it? You dont have to take a hot from the column to check the starter you can pull 12 v from anywhere and it should throw out if all is right then you can trace the problem. Isolate one thing at a time lok small and once you find a path where you have a problem it will point you to the real problem.

Just to check, but you do have the 12v power wire (2 or 4 guage) running from the battery to the starter correct? If so the only other wire going to the starter is the wire from the PCM that goes to the solenoid on the stater it should be a "hard" wire. Or you can take the starter to someplace and get it checked who knows the starter could be shot.

 

iwantLS1, I'd like to start off by saying good luck with your swap and keep working at it. Mine was a PITA until i calmed down and started troubleshooting instead of stressing over it. Here is a link to a site where you can get a vats bypass, along with alot of other nice electronic stuff for the LS1/LT1 swaps:
Baker Electronix

As far as dash lights,guages,fuel pump, and MIL Lamp go....on my swap (97 v6 auto to 2000 LS1 M6)... it was a grounding problem. I rewired my existing under hood harness and interrior harness to match up with the new engine harness. On my ground problem, it was the black plug in the passengers kickpanel. (I took a break after 3 hours of cussing it, came back, sat down in the driver seat, and when i looked over in the floor......i felt like a dumbass ) When i grounded the ground wire on that black plug (i forget what the plug number is off the top of my head) my guages started working, my MIL lamp came on (MIL LAMP IS VERY IMPORTANT IF THE MIL LAMP DOESNT COME ON....IT WILL NOT START), and i was able to start the engine for the first time. I know that John already said this, but you should hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on reguardless if you have the VATS problem squared away or not. Because VATS deals with Injectors and Starter. Now the way the VATS system was explained to me by a buddy of mine that works for GM is that as long as your key and the BCM match, then you're not going to have a problem...i.e. if you key has the resistance that he BCM is looking for then the BCM will give the PCM a 50Hz square wave (Passkey II) or a 30 Hz square wave (Passkey I)...I dont know if the 94's used a Passkey I or II, but if they were using Passkey I, than it will not work because the 98 PCM will be looking for the Passkey II signal. If you need a VATS bypass module here is a website that lists what you need and explains how to build your own VATS bypass. If you feel comfortable doing someithing like that, and you alread have a soldering gun and solder, it will be cheaper to build one using stuff you can find at Radioshack than it would be to buy one.GM VATS (Passkey) Bypass DIY Instructions Other than building a bypass module yourself, Baker Electronix is the cheapest that i have found.

My swap took about a week to do and during mine (electronics side) after i had 12 volts to both banks (injectors, ect.) in start AND run wired from the under hood harness to the PCM, that my fuel pump wasnt running when i tried to start the engine.....So I jumped the pins to the battery for the fuel pump and the fuel pump worked. Then i figured out that the i did not have the CONSTANT power wired to the PCM. I fixed that, then i tried starting it again.....That's when i ran across the grounding problem that i was talking about earlier. I'd be willing to bet that you have a grounding problem as well.

Keep us updated, I'd like to see how it comes out.

 

Quick update.

I received my VATS bypass (finally) and installed it last Satruday. I also had to bypass the started relay on the BCM side and I found out that the easiest way to do this is ground one of the yelloww/black wire on the BCM "c" plug. There are two yellow/black wires on the "c" plug (BCM plug) and it is the one with the lower # pin.

My swap finally starts up fine! WOHOO!!!
I wasn't able to do anything else on my car 'coz I had to go to a family gathering. I will try and work on my car again this week and maybe take a small video clip.

I did noticed that my gauge is still off. Fuel indicator is on empty whhile the car is running but goes back to normal when I turn the car off. I'll check on my grounding I guess. I'll have more updates soon...

Thanks again guys!


A_W_O_L I'll send you an e-mail...

 

How exciting!!! Congrats! Please fill us in on the details when you get everything ironed out.