Hello all!

I have been researching potential swaps to build a NASA Time trial car (ttu) with an s2000 roller and an lsX engine of sorts. Some blueprints for the build are as followed.

Goals-
<2350lbs full fluids and driver
~450whp/450 ft lbs peak
--nice area under the curve from 3k to 6850
Reliable
phenomenal cooling, braking, and grip
~30k budget (with my own fabrication, install/labor and buying what I can used)


ap1 roller
gutted interior
nasa compliant full cage, tying into front and rear shock towers
carbon hardtop
big aero
Fuel cell
wider fenders, bumpers, quarters to accommodate wheels/tires -285F/315R
And tons more

now with regards to powertrain, I have always loved the ls3. With some mild bolt ons it would meet my power goals and be reliable day in and day out. Thing is I would like to limit total engine cost to around 7.5k. I also would only feel comfortable doing an ls3 swap if I was to buy a wrecked Camaro donor (probably 8-12k?)

So that leaves the ls1. Here's where I would like opinions. It appears 450whp/450trq is obtainable, but not easy, and no two dynos show same numbers.

Custom fabricated intake to Nw ported 102 tb to ported Fast 102
OR itb with short runner length for high rpm power??
Polished/ported 243 Heads (wcch)
Xxx road racing Cam??? Blueprinted to match head flow
6850 red line
1 7/8" Long tubes (if they fit) or fabricated
3" exhaust
Underdrive pullies
No ac
Standalone? Or stock ecu with f body wiring harness( with wiring harness add on) with dyno tune for 93
T56 Trans with short shifter
Dry sump?
42lb injectors
Walbro 255


And of course everything that is needed to make the engine mate and fit into the car and run properly (their are ots kits)
-cooling
-fuel
-pedals
-gauges/cluster
-mounts/interferences
-engine accessories ie. alternator
-oil pan
-driveshaft modification
-diff upgrade
-axle upgrade



Gears and power under curve(ie tuning) derived for specific track (probably Sebring)

So what I am curious about is itbs, dry sumping, and a road racing cam to optimize the 6850 red line. Honestly I think 7.5k won't cover have the stuff I listed. I'd like to keep internals stock, as much as a lightened rotating assembly interests me, I don't see it's value now.

 

I'd suggest you do some searching on the NET for LS1 oiling; lots of talk of failed motors due to oiling issues (on long left sweepers). Dry sump seems to be the only real option in order to curb any issues along those lines. That said, there are some forum members (in the roadrace section) that run baffled pans and an extra quart of oil that claim they have no issues, however they're probably not running race rubber. In my own case, I've run my 914 Porsche/LS1 on the track (HPDE) with an extra quart of oil with no loss of oil pressure, however I was on street tires.

For a dedicated track car, I would think you'd want to protect your investment (in the motor) by going dry sump; high initial cost, but savings in the long run. Again, don't ignor searching on the Roadrace section. FWIW

Andy1

 

For what you list, you pretty much want to do something similar to what I've done so far plus the extras like aero you want to use. I'd rather have a moderately strung engine than a highly strung engine on a track. 450wheel on an ls3 is pretty normal with just cam + valvesprings/pushrods and 1 7/8" LTs or 4-2-1s as needed. I'm going to also do the rocker bearings and lifters out of precaution. Wouldn't raise rpm any higher for track use. Less stress, less issues. Cam already is extra stress on the engine.

Dry sump is the only way for sustained and repeated high-g action. 1.2g is the magic number on a left hand sweeper. You can see this behaviour on the (motor trend?) 240ss video which went round willow. That's a street car and it's not set up well. With slicks you'll kill it.
Standalone makes things easier and adds features which may be useful in competitive environment. The stock and rather legendary dash is fine if you know what to do.

I don't want to sound rude but you really need to do a lot more research with the questions you have asked. Perhaps even a few weeks worth at least. Buy the S2000 swap manual from Import Muscle, it will give you a better idea of what you're up against. People are not going to spoon feed you pages of information. It's not a simple 'do this, do that' with what you want to do. There are other unrelated things that are S2K specific you also need to find out about and rectify before you go and do what you want to do, or other **** will break even if you swap it or not but especially if you do.

It will cost more than you think. The 240ss swap without brakes and many other upgrades cost 40k with labour.
When you want to keep the engine back into the firewall as close as possible, it will cost you even more. When you want to dry sump it, it will cost much more and be very hard to fit the headers. LTs are nearly impossible with a vette style mount. The dry sump pump is a bitch to fit.
SFI approved bellhousings (whilst maintaining approval) will cause clearance issues for ride height. Dual 3" Exhausts will also hamper ride height. Plan to use oval (more $ than you expected). Keeping them under 95 db is also difficult to fit, with a splitter and other aero.
I think you see where this is going...

I'm now on the home straight to finish wiring, cooling and plumbing to get it rolling with some bigger rubber and a little bit of a roll at minimum, so at least you can get some leads or ideas of what not to do, if you do decide to do this. Can now see why no one else has gone to this level yet. Adding aero as I go (no cert needed), plus some RCAs before certification. Have to fit everything first..
I'll drop weight with hard top and maybe more interior strip as I go. Most of the weight is in the soft top motors, AC, ABS. One S2K chopped the windscreen off..

Also to have an FIA homoglated cage this day and age you cannot re-install the soft top - the angle for the rear bars with more recent rule changes, causes clearance issues. The cage on my car was done before I got it and it was prior to this rule change, so it's the only one in the country with an FIA cage and a soft top. It's mostly a track car with some street use. So far 2+ years in the build (v8 swap) and another year sorting the harnesses and other bullshit (mega fuckaround here in NZ and wrong info... poor professional advice and the rest - just learn it yourself it's the only way to not get fucked around!!!).

Good luck and really think your decisions through before you do them - this car is like a puzzle to fit all this **** in.