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Need help with pressure problem

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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 03:41 PM
  #21  
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You'd think so. I primed it with 4 quarts through the access hole on the drivers side front. Put the plug back in and then started it. It had 20lbs for about 5-10 seconds then tapered off to zero.

I picked up the O ring for the LQ4 engine (red) from the local parts store and it does seem to be a bit thicker. I'll change it out Friday and will take a picture of the 2 side by side. It did seem strange how it went in, there was hardly any resistance when I put the tube back into the pump. I pulled it out and reinstalled it a few times because I thought it wasn't right. I would rather replace the cheap O ring than just jump in and replace the pump.
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 03:49 PM
  #22  
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Here is an online pic I found of the two o rings.
The red one is for the lq4 and the blue one is for an ls.
My pickup tube is lq4
Attached Thumbnails Need help with pressure problem-o-rings.jpg  
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 04:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Cody
You'd think so. I primed it with 4 quarts through the access hole on the drivers side front. Put the plug back in and then started it. It had 20lbs for about 5-10 seconds then tapered off to zero.
Ah - that's more conclusive than your original post. Something's clearly amiss. FWIW my ring was snug on the tube and VERY snug in the block. Had to lube the hell out of it and rock it a bit one hand while tightening the single bolt with other to get the flange to pull up evenly.
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Cody
Here is an online pic I found of the two o rings.
The red one is for the lq4 and the blue one is for an ls.
My pickup tube is lq4
My o-ring was blue (once). After test-fitting it, the blue "color" rubbed off and it was red underneath...
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 05:51 PM
  #25  
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One tip I can give is to take the pump cover off, fill it with heavy gear oil or STP oil treatment or pack it with grease. That will assist in sealing and help with the suction during the first start up.

Some may have issues with doing this, but I have successfully done this without any issues, Oil can be changed one it is up and running ok.

BC
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 07:34 PM
  #26  
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Was the rear cover off of this motor? Does it have the barbell in it?
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 08:35 PM
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What if you try removing that plug you primed the engine with, and cranked. If oil comes out, not a pump issue, if it doesn't, its either pump,pickup tube screen, or pickup tube seal
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 08:54 PM
  #28  
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I tried to replace the o ring today but I just don't have enough room to do it with the engine in the car so.............out it comes tomorrow,,,maybe Sunday.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 09:12 PM
  #29  
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Feel your pain - I think I had mine in/out 11 times. The last one because I got a flawed aftermarket oil pan that had a casting flaw in oil filter passages which caused an external leak once I tried to prime it with pressurized oil. Thinking I was an hour away from a first start when I notice the growing puddle of oil on the garage floor.

You'll figure it out - hang in there.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:04 PM
  #30  
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Are you sure it's the right pick up tube? When my motor sat for a while , it took forever to prime with a garden sprayer connected to the plug on right front. I would keep priming it until you see oil come out of the rockers.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 07:47 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jimmyg
Are you sure it's the right pick up tube?
Keep the o-ring, change the pickup tube, or keep the pickup tube, change the o-ring. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 11:36 AM
  #32  
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Not true on mine Michael. If I change the pickup tube back to the original one it won't reach down far enough into the pan and might not even fit in the pan correctly. I had to put a truck pan on it to clear my front cross member. Truck pans hold an extra quart and place the pickup in a different spot.
I pulled my engine back out this morning. It is on the stand right now and when I pulled the pan off it seems the flange did not pull up to the bottom of the pump, it was about an 1/8 high on the side with no bolt ( seems like if they drilled and taped 2 bolt hols around the tube they should have made a flange with 2 bolt holes instead of 1). Anyway I pulled the tube back off and put another fresh o ring on it, lots of grease and it slid in nice and snug. Once the bolt was tightened up the flange is nice and flush all the way around.
Attached Thumbnails Need help with pressure problem-dim_oil_pan_truck.jpg   Need help with pressure problem-dim_oil_pan_ls1_camaro.jpg   Need help with pressure problem-ls1-vs-truck-pickup-tube.jpg  
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 12:02 PM
  #33  
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You're taking my reply a bit too literally - LOL! I was simply referring to the end of the tube in question here. Of course you have to use the tube that fits your oil pan on the other end. I know EXACTLY what mean about proper flange fitment.....and I had the same thought about "why not use both threaded holes?"

At least now you'll know this piece is correct. You could use starter/battery and some long jumper wires to turn it over and check for pressure before you go back in with it. Could even easily pull plugs to make it easier on batt/starter and to get more rpm.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 02:02 PM
  #34  
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Not to literally,just havin some fun with you. I was thinking of the jumper cable route myself. For now I have it on it's side and pored oil into the side plug to see if it would leak past the flange. So far it's been an hour and nothing dripping yet. I definitely want this to be the last time it goes in.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 03:59 PM
  #35  
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Make sure the pick-up tube is seated correctly on the pump........easy to make that mistake ......flange on the tube must be flush with the pump......


Ken
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 04:22 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by kwhizz
Make sure the pick-up tube is seated correctly on the pump........easy to make that mistake ......flange on the tube must be flush with the pump......


Ken
Ken - from Cody's post a few above yours -- "Once the bolt was tightened up the flange is nice and flush all the way around."

Cody - my thinking is that IF it turns out that the issue ISN'T the o-ring, I'd still want the motor out of the van on the stand to trouble shoot other things. Hence the 'spin it up with starter on the stand' thought...
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 04:46 PM
  #37  
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Tomorrow I plan on pressurizing it and then hooking up the starter and seeing what happens.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 12:07 PM
  #38  
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I primed it this morning with 8 quarts of oil from my home made priming rig. Then hooked jumpers to the starter. I had nothing for the first few seconds and thought here we go again. Then the needle started to move slowly at first then jumped right up to about 60lbs. Then I did my happy dance. Thanks Michael and everyone for the help and guidance.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 12:44 PM
  #39  
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So did you change the o-ring? What was the problem?

Andrew
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 02:03 PM
  #40  
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He posted that further up I think Andrew......good news Cody!
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