Just grabbed a drop out and..
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2015
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Just grabbed a drop out and.. A few things, probably newb questions but I'm tired from wrangling engines around outside and googling for info, apologies if these are lame questions!
First, I bought an LQ9 with a 4L80E, supposedly 95k miles and running fine (we'll assume that much is true at least for now).
So I came to the realization that the trans is a 4wd model and I'm throwing this in a 79 C10 2wd. From what I've read, it would probably be easiest and most cost effective to sell it and buy a 2wd version. I'd like to have the big trans but more than likely this thing will top out around 350 RWHP. Plans are just a mild cam and LS3 or Hooker exhaust manifolds, that's pretty much it for modifications. What's my best option in your opinion?
Next, I figured I'd do some re-sealing while it's opened up. I'll do the cam install, throw a new oil pump and timing chain in...I know most if not all of these gaskets are re-usable but are they really? I know that gaskets aren't much but $100 here and there adds up. I already ordered a new front and rear seal, front includes timing cover. Should I go ahead and replace the intake, valley cover and oil pan gaskets also? When I pulled the intake off, it had Felpro gaskets, so I presume they've already been changed out at least one.
Next, is there anything I need to watch out for? I think I've installed 5-6 cams in my life, so I'm not completely clueless but I'm totally new to the LS. I want to make sure I get it done right and do a good job so I can drop the engine in and go (still have plenty left to worry about since it's a swap!).
Thank you for taking the time to read this!
First, I bought an LQ9 with a 4L80E, supposedly 95k miles and running fine (we'll assume that much is true at least for now).
So I came to the realization that the trans is a 4wd model and I'm throwing this in a 79 C10 2wd. From what I've read, it would probably be easiest and most cost effective to sell it and buy a 2wd version. I'd like to have the big trans but more than likely this thing will top out around 350 RWHP. Plans are just a mild cam and LS3 or Hooker exhaust manifolds, that's pretty much it for modifications. What's my best option in your opinion?
Next, I figured I'd do some re-sealing while it's opened up. I'll do the cam install, throw a new oil pump and timing chain in...I know most if not all of these gaskets are re-usable but are they really? I know that gaskets aren't much but $100 here and there adds up. I already ordered a new front and rear seal, front includes timing cover. Should I go ahead and replace the intake, valley cover and oil pan gaskets also? When I pulled the intake off, it had Felpro gaskets, so I presume they've already been changed out at least one.
Next, is there anything I need to watch out for? I think I've installed 5-6 cams in my life, so I'm not completely clueless but I'm totally new to the LS. I want to make sure I get it done right and do a good job so I can drop the engine in and go (still have plenty left to worry about since it's a swap!).
Thank you for taking the time to read this!
if the front cover gaskets arent split or majorly deformed I reuse them. I do replace oil pan gaskets because they are bitch to replace if they got smooshed somehow.
I do not reuse intake gaskets. They're cheap enough and vacuum leaks suck
cam swappin these motors is a breeze. pull the crank pulley and front cover off, unbolt the rockers and rotate the crank 720* to push the lifters up into the trays and pull the cam out.
don't sweat if the cam bearings look like ****. for some reason, they all do.
i dont swap out the pump unless it looks like crap inside the motor...like all sludgy and poopy
I do not reuse intake gaskets. They're cheap enough and vacuum leaks suck
cam swappin these motors is a breeze. pull the crank pulley and front cover off, unbolt the rockers and rotate the crank 720* to push the lifters up into the trays and pull the cam out.
don't sweat if the cam bearings look like ****. for some reason, they all do.
i dont swap out the pump unless it looks like crap inside the motor...like all sludgy and poopy
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2015
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Thank you for the info truckdoug! Is that $250 estimate common if I pay someone ELSE to do the work? I've done some transmission work in the past and anything more complicated than a Torqueflite (which is just about everything) I'd rather have an expert doing it for me.
Googling has been yielding way too many irrelevant results on the cam install and such. Is there at least a good reference on line that anyone is aware of that gives torque specs on the engine, where I need to apply silicone, and so forth?
Googling has been yielding way too many irrelevant results on the cam install and such. Is there at least a good reference on line that anyone is aware of that gives torque specs on the engine, where I need to apply silicone, and so forth?
I cannot really say if that is a common price. It is the price I paid in my medium sized city, so I'd hazard a guess it'd be about the same most places. I'd ask around with some racers in your area (there are forums here for just about every area) who does reputable transmission work and call them.
It's pretty involved, since ALL the guts need to come out to swap output shafts. But it's no more difficult than any other auto trans....which is to say pretty difficult.
There might be some more information in the auto transmission forum (its under chassis, suspension and appearance)
For fastener torque specs I use
https://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
and the only place you need sealant is the four corners of the block where the front and rear covers meet the oil pan gasket. just a little dab will do.
It's pretty involved, since ALL the guts need to come out to swap output shafts. But it's no more difficult than any other auto trans....which is to say pretty difficult.
There might be some more information in the auto transmission forum (its under chassis, suspension and appearance)
For fastener torque specs I use
https://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
and the only place you need sealant is the four corners of the block where the front and rear covers meet the oil pan gasket. just a little dab will do.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2015
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Thanks again truckdoug!
And no, I'm not sure and I've been concerned about it but figured I'll find out soon enough. Once it's on the stand I'll see about pulling a plug and feeling if it's got flat or dished pistons.
What I do know - it's an 04 with 317 heads. It was from an 04 Denali.
And no, I'm not sure and I've been concerned about it but figured I'll find out soon enough. Once it's on the stand I'll see about pulling a plug and feeling if it's got flat or dished pistons.
What I do know - it's an 04 with 317 heads. It was from an 04 Denali.
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Guess it would depend on if it was a Sierra Denali (truck) or like a Yukon Denali (SUV). Pretty sure the trucks came with LQ4's. But yeah, pull a plug and check to see for sure. Either way it will wake up a '79 C10!
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2015
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Haha yes, just dyno tuned the 350, which is rebuilt .030 over original block with baby Lunati cam and vortec heads. A whopping 250 RWHP, which actually is probably not bad for a 350 but pretty boring still. And no OD, and a total pain on cold mornings even after fiddling with the carb for two years. I'm done with the Gen I!!