Stock truck pulley, no clearance issues with the Mishimoto radiator or electric fans.
I ran the stock truck locations at first, but that puts everything way too high for a hood. At some point I went back and added an ICT Billet relocation kit to get everything under the hood, they sell kits for every combination of accessory location and crank pulley depth.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! Yeah, I want to avoid modifying the hood, I have no fabrication skills or equipment. I did message ICT Billet a while back to ask which kit to use and they recommended SKU 551577-3. Is this the one you used? Also, did you keep the AC compressor on your setup or deleted it?

 

551778 kit is what worked for me. Original truck alternator and power steering pump.
I had room for the AC in the stock truck location but never got it working. I couldn't find anyone to fabricate the lines for me, the firewall connections were some weird old metric thread that no one could identify, even the sikky kit was not the correct threads and they'd never seen it.

 

I just remembered, since I'm using the sikky kit, I have to use the LS1 power steering pump. The kit ICE Billet suggested relocates the alternator and is compatible with the LS1 power steering pump.

 

Not sure what portion of the kit you mean, but I used their engine mounts and still used a truck power steering pump. If you're going to use LS1 accessories, you may need an LS1 crank pulley for spacing and I'd still look for the ICT kit that puts the parts in the same place as mine, the stock F body locations, as they are proven to fit in an S13. You could also just get a whole set of stock LS1 F body accessories with brackets off eBay at that point.
Not saying it won't work, but I've never seen an S chassis with that high wide mount alternator, and it's sorta like the C5 Corvette location which I have heard doesn't work in S chassis.

 

Keep in mind that I'm a complete newb to engine swaps, my plan was to buy everything from sikky to avoid headaches. The reason I though I needed an LS1 pump was because of this power steering lines which "only" fit LS1 and LS2 power steering pump. Since your build is done, I rather take advise from you as you already went through this experience xD. So what accessories did you swap to make it work? The only items I have bought from sikky so far are the engine mounts, oil pan, driveshaft, and master cylinder.

 

Did your engine come with accessories? Mine was a truck 5.3 from an '02 Sierra that came with accessories. I just used what it came with, since that was the cheapest option and I knew they had the right spacing for my crank pulley. I just made my own power steering line but somewhere in this thread, a guy mentioned a link to one even cheaper than it costed to build one. Cheaper than any of those you could get a local hydraulic shop to make you one. What year is your 240 and what did your LS come out of? Are you using a T56?

 

Yes, the engine came with accessories. It came out of 01 Suburban. The shell is from a 92 Nissan 240sx. Yes, using t56 I bought it from grannas racing, t56 magnum-f

 

Ok then yeah you should be able to use the accessories that came with it as is with no hood and get it running, or that kit I said above will get the truck accessories under the hood. I think somewhere in this thread there's a link to a PS hose that should work. Or just get the AN adapters I listed above and have a hydraulic hose shop make you one.
You may need a SOHC throttle cable, or may have to fabricate something up to work. Mine was a 90, all I needed was a piece of aluminum sheet to get the cable in the right place, but I've heard DOHC ones are too short. But your dohc tachometer will work normally with the stock PCM tach signal.
While you have the motor out, do the rear main seal and the barbell plug.

 

Thank you, @earlingy ! I'll go with the route you are suggesting, I really want to hear it start! Did you change your differential? Also, what about fuel pump, did you have to upgrade it?

 

I used a drop in deatschwerks fuel pump, and later I added a helical S15 diff to my original pumpkin. It didn't drive poorly with the open diff, with grippy RE01R autox tires, but definitely put power down better with the hlsd.

 

Did you have to modify your block to make this kit work? There is a message that says "When using a "truck" engine block (only has 1 mounting hole on the front of the block) you will be required to drill and tap a second M10-1.5mm mounting hole using drill template 551445." I'm very limited with the tools that I have.

 

Not to be mean but... You're going to be buying lots of tools to get a 23 year old engine twice the size of the original in a 33 year old car. My uncle said, the one with the most tools gets into heaven. Buying more tools is part of the fun!
Lowe's/HD has the tap and drillbit, go slow and use lots of cutting oil. The harbor freight taps aren't hard enough to cut cast iron. Even the OE f body accessories need that hole drilled and tapped on an iron block. Maybe some iron blocks did come with the hole?

 

All good! is not that I don't want to buy them, is that I do not have space for them. I'm sure my machine shop, the one that rebuilt my engine, could do it for me. I'm just trying to go the plug-and-play route, I know this is not always going to be the option. The kit I linked from ICT billet, doesn't require drilling the holes, I need to double check if it is going to fit, and if it doesn't than I will go with the drilling the hole to the block to make it work

 

Even with any plug-and-play kit, you will have to do some custom work. Follow the route OP took with the accessories mounting. I have that car now, and it's been running great.

 

Thank you for the advise! I did ended up drilling and tapping the block to mount the ICT Billet brackets. It is slowly coming together. I'm currently working on trying to assemble my fuel lines using TPFE braided hose and AN fittings (Evil Energy), but unfortunately, I have not been successful yet. When I pressurize the hose and submerge it in water, it seems fine but the pressure keeps leaking overnight. I'd appreciate any tips or advise on how to assemble a fuel line .

The hose in the picture below is CPE, I later upgraded to PTFE.


LM7 + fuel line rail building.

 

Dude!! That's awesome! I'm so happy to see the old beast!

 

Hi. I'm not sure how to since I've never assembled AN fuel lines, but you could try using fuel safe Teflon tape to seal the connections. That SHOULD work

 

I’m fairly new to AN fittings, but I’ve been learning quite a bit. My understanding is that there are two main types: those that seal with an O-ring and those that use a 37° flare. From what I know, I’m currently using flare-style AN fittings, which should seal simply by tightening them down.

I’ve also used AN fittings with O-rings, and my understanding is that those are typically used when connecting to components such as a fuel rail or fuel regulator. I think you use the flared ones to connects from hose-to-hose.

Feel free to correct me if I’m off—I’m still learning.

 

Are your leaks from this fitting you showed, or the place where the line gets clamped down? I always had issues on the self-installed hose ends, the red side on this pic:


If that's your issue, you can order a custom length hose with crimped ends from a hydraulic hose shop, just spec the length and thread size, and fuel grade hose.
If it's the blue side, try tightening a bit more ( or if you are hulk you may have them too tight and they may be damaged now), or the cheapo eBay/Amazon stuff sometimes leaks, try Earls brand.