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What work should be done on a dropout LQ9?

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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 10:15 PM
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Default What work should be done on a dropout LQ9?

I'm looking around for a LQ9 for a swap in my 92 K1500. The most common ones I can find seem to be complete dropouts (accessories, harness, ecm, all the little goodies that make it run) from 02-06 escalades with about 100k-160k miles on them.
I'd like to have this engine run as long as possible, and given that I've never swapped any engine before, I've got but a small idea of what to look for when I finally decide on one. When I do, if it's within that 100k-160k mileage range, what, if anything, should I expect to do to it before thinking about putting it in anything? I figure there's a lot that factors into that since everybody maintains or beats on their engine differently, so I'm not looking for anything crazy detailed, but just an idea of what to clean up, what to consider replacing while it's on a stand, things to look at or mess with before it moves to the truck.
I should mention that I'd like to make about 400hp on it as a NA setup, which I don't think will be a huge challenge, throw in a mild cam and maybe some different heads to up compression), but I also don't want to destroy it before I get a chance to modify it by overlooking something stupid.
Thanks!
~Ken
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 10:34 PM
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An LQ9 with a mild cam will get you to 400FWHP. LQ9 heads already have high enough compression; that's the difference between it and the LQ4.
As long as you have the engine out, go ahead and change the oil pump and do a rocker trunnion bushing conversion. Look for any leaks and address them as needed.
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 10:56 PM
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If it has good oil pressure I wouldn't bother changing the pump, They rarely fail. I would do a mild torque cam since it's going into a heavy vehicle, New valve springs to match the cam, Timing chain if needed and replace front and rear seals. I just recently put a completely stock LQ4 in my son in-laws Nova and only changed the intake and oil pan and it runs long tube headers backed by a 4l80e with a 3600 stall and it screams. He didn't have the extra cash at the time for the cam and lifters or they would have been upgraded.
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 11:35 PM
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The only reason I mentioned the oil pump is because it's the one wear part that all the others depend on. Plus, it's way easier to change while the engine is out of the vehicle. Good call on the timing set! I totally forgot that!.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 12:06 AM
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Thanks y'all! Should I stick with an OEM LQ9 chain if it needs changing, or is there typically something that may match the cam? Noticed some people like to swap to an LS2 chain - is there an advantage to be had or not something noticeable for the money?
I'll probably call TSP and get a full idea of what cam spec I should look at closer to getting the engine, but just to have a general idea of what to look for, what are some good mild torque cams with decent street manners? This'll be coupled to a Gearstar Stage 2 700R4 with about a 2000 stall, I'd like it to be a DD if necessary and am shooting for longevity and drivability on this build. Will the stock injectors do well with the new cam? I'll probably pull them and get them cleaned once I get the engine, but I figure something to look into before install.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 10:39 AM
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The LS2 chain is actually the "common" service part now, and it's a good one. GM went to it when it came out as it's better than what came before it. Even if you asked for an LQ9 chain, LS2 is what you'll get.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 05:10 PM
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The pistons on the LQ9 are the difference. They're flat tops, where as the LQ4 is dished. They both have 317 heads. You can get a little more extra compression though running either 799's or 243's
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