ls swap engine grounds
Indeed -- I know a couple of guys who resolved aftermarket ECU problems by REMOVING the separate ground cable to the negative term of the battery (recommended by the vendor) and grounding to the chassis. Go figure.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Cal.
I think it's just natural to ASSUME (there's that word...) that a cable ground connection is the best way to go, as all positive connections are that way.
BUT, as said, the body structure conducts BEAUTIFULLY and is the way to go. Just common sense.....
Michael, your father must have been a wised man.. I love that saying!
BUT, as said, the body structure conducts BEAUTIFULLY and is the way to go. Just common sense.....
Michael, your father must have been a wised man.. I love that saying!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2014
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Likes: 660
Let me throw my 2 cents in. There may be a chance that the OPs crank codes are not related to bad battery grounds.
That aside, the battery ground is not that much of a player except during starting. Chassis grounding the battery in the back should be fine.
During normal running, the ground between the alternator and engine is most likely a bigger player. Make sure the alternator has good grounding to the engine and try to use some point near the alternator as a single point(or as single as possible) to the engine management as well as big ground strap(s) to the chassis for the starter and other chassis grounded components. This should reduce ground loops.
Many engine management systems have their own signal ground circuit that should not be tied into the chassis or other grounds.
sbdgbody... in your harness, do you have a separate sensor ground circuits?
That aside, the battery ground is not that much of a player except during starting. Chassis grounding the battery in the back should be fine.
During normal running, the ground between the alternator and engine is most likely a bigger player. Make sure the alternator has good grounding to the engine and try to use some point near the alternator as a single point(or as single as possible) to the engine management as well as big ground strap(s) to the chassis for the starter and other chassis grounded components. This should reduce ground loops.
Many engine management systems have their own signal ground circuit that should not be tied into the chassis or other grounds.
sbdgbody... in your harness, do you have a separate sensor ground circuits?
i have the 4 grounds from pcm red pin1 pin 40 blue pin1 pin 40 and two harness grounds for coils two harness for the 2 front o2 sensors now for the grounds on engine
left head with alternator bracket to strut tower
right head to strut tower these are 3 gauge
starter bolt to frame 1 gauge
1 harness ground to rear of left head then to fire wall
1 harness ground to rear of right head then to fire wall these are are 4 guage
left head with alternator bracket to strut tower
right head to strut tower these are 3 gauge
starter bolt to frame 1 gauge
1 harness ground to rear of left head then to fire wall
1 harness ground to rear of right head then to fire wall these are are 4 guage
Let me throw my 2 cents in. There may be a chance that the OPs crank codes are not related to bad battery grounds.
That aside, the battery ground is not that much of a player except during starting. Chassis grounding the battery in the back should be fine.
During normal running, the ground between the alternator and engine is most likely a bigger player. Make sure the alternator has good grounding to the engine and try to use some point near the alternator as a single point(or as single as possible) to the engine management as well as big ground strap(s) to the chassis for the starter and other chassis grounded components. This should reduce ground loops.
Many engine management systems have their own signal ground circuit that should not be tied into the chassis or other grounds.
sbdgbody... in your harness, do you have a separate sensor ground circuits?
That aside, the battery ground is not that much of a player except during starting. Chassis grounding the battery in the back should be fine.
During normal running, the ground between the alternator and engine is most likely a bigger player. Make sure the alternator has good grounding to the engine and try to use some point near the alternator as a single point(or as single as possible) to the engine management as well as big ground strap(s) to the chassis for the starter and other chassis grounded components. This should reduce ground loops.
Many engine management systems have their own signal ground circuit that should not be tied into the chassis or other grounds.
sbdgbody... in your harness, do you have a separate sensor ground circuits?
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2014
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Likes: 660
The next thing I would check is the supply voltage to the sensors.
And possibly put a scope on the output of the cam/crank sensors with the scope, Maybe even move the scope ground to different locations to see if it makes a difference.
And possibly put a scope on the output of the cam/crank sensors with the scope, Maybe even move the scope ground to different locations to see if it makes a difference.