How do I test a PCM with a multimeter
I did a 5.3L swap on my 80' Buick Century; rewired it myself to a 4 fuse/2 relay setup. It fired up right away and I drove it all summer without issues. Most of the winter it sat in either my garage or driveway, and would be fired up/moved when moving snow or short trips (mini spool in Fargo ND). One of the last times I needed to snow blow it fired up right away and sat and idled. I shut it off so it wouldn't be blowing exhaust against my house while I worked the snowblower on a different part of the driveway. When I went to restart it it wouldn't fire; even with a jump start. Weird, but didn't have time to look into it.
Now, I finally have had some time. I traced it down to no spark, what seems to be at all cylinders using my timing light. The power coming from the fuse block tests good. (test light, I can understand lights, ha!) The ground also test correct. All my grounds appear tight/good yet.
But how do I test the other two coil wires that run to the PCM without frying it? If I read it correctly my test light would fry the PCM if I tried to use it to ground the light. I generally consider myself fairly competent, but for some reason I've never been able to figure out a multimeter. (yes, even after lots of youtube videos, again, I feel really dumb about it!)
Just looking to test out the ignition grounds on the PCM as my next step!
I'll add some photos of my Buick in the next post, because who doesnt like pictures eh?! It ran a 20.8 sec quarter with the 3.8L v6, 16.2 sec with a 305 and a 14.2 sec with stock 5.3l. So its been a fun experiment so far!
Thank you!
when you say the power to the coils is good is that with the key turned to the "start" position as well as "run" or "on"?
is it possible that there is +12v to the coils with the ignition in the on/run position but when you turn the key to "start" that it drops out?
I'll recheck the grounds, but pretty sure they did all look good. It could be something inside the harness, but I'm hoping not!
Thank you!
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While cranking it with my computer hooked up, I noticed I wasnt showing any RPM while cranking. I put a new crank position sensor in and it then read RPM, started, ran poorly then died. Now it doesnt show RPM again while cranking and wont start again. If it was a faulty crank sensor, what would cause the new one to go out again? I'm hoping thats not the case. I looked over the wiring before putting the new sensor in and it all looked ok. Taking a break from it right now, got frustrated, ha!
Thanks for any thoughts.
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It could literally be that simple. Trust me, I was both happy and pissed at the same time when I figured that out. Pissed that I had spent so much time chasing wires when it was just a sensor issue.
If anything, check your crank sensor. That's where the PCM is going to get the proper signal to fire the coils.
You could also go down to Autozone and rent a noid light if this doesn't work out, and check your injector harness too. The injectors fire before the spark does, so the light should come on while cranking. This can help troubleshoot wiring too. Since you know how to read lights, should be easy lol.
The PCM fires the coils by grounding them, so you know. So they should ALL have a 12v supply. Check that with a multimeter. It's rally not that hard brother. You're gonna have to get smart on that if you have LS wiring issues.
I would start with that sensor though, just saying.
I hosed down the cam position sensor connector and main coil connectors in electrical cleaner, fired it up and rev'ed it up quickly to 3-4K, then went to WOT and did a crank relearn. Seems to be running well now.
I dont think I mentioned that if I let it sit for awhile (guessing drying out the cylinders) it would usually stumble a little bit, my guess is the two cylinder actually firing.
I have to fix a leaking power steering connection then I'll see how it keeps firing up again and running. It feels like summer here in Fargo and I have some old tires I need to go burn off

Thank you for all the help and suggestions!






