Am I looking at a tow back to the tuner ?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Am I looking at a tow back to the tuner ? I’ve got a 5.3 out of a 2010 Silverado swaped into a 1993 Toyota Land cruiser
One of the two big plugs into the engine control module, had lost its plastic top cover. Without first disconnecting the batter, popped off the plug to wrap some tape around the wires & plug.
Now it turns over, but does not start. Did I blow its programming by removing the plug, while the battery was connected ?
One of the two big plugs into the engine control module, had lost its plastic top cover. Without first disconnecting the batter, popped off the plug to wrap some tape around the wires & plug.
Now it turns over, but does not start. Did I blow its programming by removing the plug, while the battery was connected ?
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 103
Likes: 3
From: north-central Virginia
I couldn't really see how.
Pin x1-20 on a e38 ECM is a constant battery hot. That's the only hot wire going to the ECM when the vehicle is off. By unplugging the ECM, it should be no different than disconnecting a battery cable.
Much more likely, is by messing with that plug, you dislodged a poor connection. Either a wire wasn't crimped to its terminal correctly, a terminal wasn't seated squarely in the connector, or you revealed a broken wire, that until now had been just barely making contact.
First diagnosis is to see if the ECM is turning on at all. Does the "check engine" light come on when you turn the key? Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds?
If the ECM is coming on, check for trouble codes. Also shoot it up with starting fluid and see if it fires then.
Pin x1-20 on a e38 ECM is a constant battery hot. That's the only hot wire going to the ECM when the vehicle is off. By unplugging the ECM, it should be no different than disconnecting a battery cable.
Much more likely, is by messing with that plug, you dislodged a poor connection. Either a wire wasn't crimped to its terminal correctly, a terminal wasn't seated squarely in the connector, or you revealed a broken wire, that until now had been just barely making contact.
First diagnosis is to see if the ECM is turning on at all. Does the "check engine" light come on when you turn the key? Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds?
If the ECM is coming on, check for trouble codes. Also shoot it up with starting fluid and see if it fires then.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 103
Likes: 3
From: north-central Virginia
I don't really have experience with these engines, so I can only theorize...
That code would indicate something is wrong with your throttle pedal connections. Thus, I assume you disconnected the x1 connector on the ECM, since all the throttle connections are on that one. I would suggest isolating and inspecting the six throttle wires near the ECM plug, and look for trouble there.
I'm surprised the engine doesn't run with the throttle partially disconnected. I've been told it usually does.
Pin-outs for a e38 ECM are here. I'm assuming you're using a e38. My 2010 LMG(5.3) has a e38 ECM, so I'm figuring yours is the same.
It's possible too, that you damaged something else more critical than just the throttle connections, when you re-arranged that connector. Not everything will show up in the codes.
If none of the above fixes the problem, you will need to go through that harness and check for solid connections on every wire. It won't be easy, but you'll learn how it works and is put together.
That code would indicate something is wrong with your throttle pedal connections. Thus, I assume you disconnected the x1 connector on the ECM, since all the throttle connections are on that one. I would suggest isolating and inspecting the six throttle wires near the ECM plug, and look for trouble there.
I'm surprised the engine doesn't run with the throttle partially disconnected. I've been told it usually does.
Pin-outs for a e38 ECM are here. I'm assuming you're using a e38. My 2010 LMG(5.3) has a e38 ECM, so I'm figuring yours is the same.
It's possible too, that you damaged something else more critical than just the throttle connections, when you re-arranged that connector. Not everything will show up in the codes.
If none of the above fixes the problem, you will need to go through that harness and check for solid connections on every wire. It won't be easy, but you'll learn how it works and is put together.
Agree with Kipps, something didn't get reconnected right. No real way to troubleshoot this over the internet, you just have to get in there are start verifying connections. Shouldn't need a "tuner" for that, any good garage should be able to fix this.
