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So I have hit a stand-still in my Gen V LT swap into my 1984 Suburban. Was going to go a conventional LS swap but got a smoking deal on the drivetrain from a 2016 Silverado so figured what the heck I'd go that way. I'm a fabricator and body guy, not an engine guru so I'm kinda just BS'ing my way through this swap.
Engine is a 5.3L L83 mated to a 6L80E.
PSI Conversion Harness (got this before I realized I wanted to use a Lokar ESS shifter w/ tap shifting)
Speartech tap shift switch box
Speartech reverse light CAN box
Speartech ECM
Speartech tuned TCM
Lokar ESS shifter
Aeromotive Phantom In-Tank fuel pump kit w/ aeromotive EFI regulator set at 72psi
Engine has brand new injectors, fuel rails, and plugs.
It is running like **** and the only code that my snap-on scan tool is picking is a P135A - Ignition Coil Supply Voltage Circuit Bank 1. My first thought is to just get new coil packs, but since I'm not getting a coil specific code I have no clue how to test and see if it's just one coil pack. I'd rather not dump $250 into new coil packs and wires if it's some simple computer issue.
Not sure if I can be much help, I have not done a Gen V swap, but check to see if you have 12v at the coil plug, on the pink wire.
Nice looking Suburban.
It's likely not the coils unless they were physically damaged from the donor vehicle. Coil resistance can be checked easy enough though- there should not be much variance between coils. Also don't forget the good old fashioned trick of unhooking plug wires and hooking them to a spark plug just touching the engine or grounded metal and watching for spark as the engine turns over. The above advice about checking voltage is good too.
Not sure if I can be much help, I have not done a Gen V swap, but check to see if you have 12v at the coil plug, on the pink wire.
Nice looking Suburban.
Stampede.
First thing I tested was that. Have the same voltage at all 8 coil plugs on the pink wire of 12.186V.
Originally Posted by JacobJ
It's likely not the coils unless they were physically damaged from the donor vehicle. Coil resistance can be checked easy enough though- there should not be much variance between coils. Also don't forget the good old fashioned trick of unhooking plug wires and hooking them to a spark plug just touching the engine or grounded metal and watching for spark as the engine turns over. The above advice about checking voltage is good too.
Let us know!
No spark when it turns over. It isn't dumping fuel in bank 1 either. Put new wires all the way around and coils on bank 1.
Could it be the AFM acting up? I was told that you just leave it unplugged with the PSI harness.
p135a.enginetroublecode.comP135A DTC specifically refers to the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is over-retarded, the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. P1351 CHEVROLET - Ignition Control Module Circuit High Voltage
p135a.enginetroublecode.comP135A DTC specifically refers to the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is over-retarded, the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. P1351 CHEVROLET - Ignition Control Module Circuit High Voltage
Which is it?
All my snap-on scanner is picking up is P135A - Ignition Coil Supply Voltage Circuit Bank 1. If I go into my engine data Bank 1 is off. Haven't removed the timing chain and it's factory so I doubt it's a camshaft timing issue
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L83 Swap HELP! 
