Throttle Pedal Becomes Unresponsive
There is some kind of logic in the DBW ECU which checks that the power it thinks the ECU is making roughly correlates with what it should be making based on the throttle position. If the difference is too large, it will lock the throttle in the "park" position until you key-cycle it, because it thinks there is a potentially dangerous DBW malfunction. It could be that. It could also be a lot of other things.
Last edited by lemming104; Apr 7, 2020 at 02:58 PM.
There is some kind of logic in the DBW ECU which checks that the power it thinks the ECU is making roughly correlates with what it should be making based on the throttle position. If the difference is too large, it will lock the throttle in the "park" position until you key-cycle it, because it thinks there is a potentially dangerous DBW malfunction. It could be that. It could also be a lot of other things.
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One of the things that both DD and Rostra said I needed to do was hook the ground from the cruise to the same ground in the harness that hooks in the throttle harness.
Also they were very emphatic about the quality of the grounds. A DD tech sent me instructions about how to do voltage drop tests on each ground.
I did all of that as well as remove all connectors from anywhere in the cruise worrying and replace with soldered connections.
The cruise worked much much better than every. No surges.
But after a couple months it happened again. I have yanked the DD and replacing with one that does not hook through the pedal wiring. In middle of that install so I can't report how it's working out yet.
Is there a reason you want it need to do this on an engine stand?
The buns for oxygen sensor are easy and inexpensive to come by. If you really want to run it on the stand you could have a muffler shop make you exhaust piped that drop down and weld O2 buns on to put the sensors on. I have no idea how viable that would be.


