Helpful parts for swaps
Helpful parts for swaps Here's a far from complete list of helpful parts that I've found are purchased nearly every swap that people often don't think about. Hopefully, this info will save a few people some time/hassle. My three main suppliers are Summit racing (SUM), Rock auto (RA) and Speed engineering (SE)
Mounts: SE 26-1036. These are inexpensive, have multiple mount positions and are well made. Have used about a dozen sets without a defect. Adapter to block and mount to adapter hardware included. Mounts and cross bolt are not
Rubber mounts RA 2285. Order these from RA for under $5 each. These fit any SBC equipped car with the rubber mount attached to the engine, not the frame
Cross bolts RA Needa 811014 $1 ea
Trans mount RA 6420 single bolt
Trans mount RA 2268 two bolts
I'm not putting pans in here because there is a sticky thread dedicated to them and they change with every swap
On the other hand, oil filters are often ignored. Oil filters come in two basic types. STD and metric threads. 97-07 ish OEM are all standard threads. 08ish and up plus all repops and aftermarket pans like holley use metric threads. There are a few exceptions to this, but for the most part this is how it is
Standard threads, RA WIX 51522
Metric threads, RA WIX 57060
Some engines have a factory oil cooler that is rarely used in a swap. Removing these is simple by unbolting them. The problem is it leaves the bypass port open on the oil pan. Sure, you can grab one from a junkyard, but replacements are so cheap, why bother with old used?
SUM 551621 flat block off
SUM 551608 w/ 1/8NPT gauge/turbo port
These use a real O-ring gasket and as long as it's not pinched, do an excellent job of sealing. Even with aftermarket pan kit like holley which come with a factory cast version, their gaskets leak like crazy. The OEM aluminum framed gaskets are all discontinued, so it's easier to just switch to these. Instant gauge port and no more leaks
Starters are often forgotten when pulling engines, and even harder to remember is the hardware. A regular M10 bolt wont cut it here. I run 99-07 truck starters on all my swaps. They're about as compact as can be, the most inexpensive of any LS starter and and use a classic ring terminal for the solenoid. Later starters use a connector that not everyone has. If you ever order one, remember there are two types. Early type I had two different length bolts, later type II had two bolts the same length
RA 678004 The drop down has a x2 for the type I pack and x1 for type II (2 reqd)
Trans, all my autos get rebuilt and never come with dipsticks or hardware. Anyone picking up a unit they didnt pull will be in the same boat. OEM locking dipsticks are really expensive. Like $50-80 for the locking stick alone, plus $30-50 for the tube. I prefer the transdapt dipstick because it's inexpensive, easy to install into most vehicles after the trans is installed (harder than you'd think on some), and low profile. It fits well on LS1/3/6 intakes along with truck and sheet metal pieces and clears most low profile hoods like 67-69 camaro, C3 etc. It's not made for LS trans though as the hold down tab goes to the empty bolt hole in the bellhousing. One can either weld a tab to a different hole or create your own stud. The latter is simple and requires a 1" 3/8 bolt,a washer and a nut. Simply insert the bolt in the unused bellhousing hole from the engine side. Use a nut/washer to press it into the hole just like you seat lug studs. Now, you have a permanent stud for the dipstick to mount. Since we're on trans stuff, here are converter bolts and misc trans fittings as well
Dipstick SUM 743865
Converter to flexplate bolts RA 14099
Case fittings inv flare for 5/16" hardlines SUM BCI-72001 (all 4L60E, early 80E)
Case fittings AN6 SUM ICB-551114 (all 4L60E, early 80E)
Case fittings AN6 SUM ICB-551124 (Late 4L80E)
Case fitting AN6 SUM 551121-6AN (6L80E/90E/8L90E) Most LT headers are not designed around the later 6/8spd trans and often come really close to this port. Low profile 90* fittings are often required
T56 magnum: these days it's nearly impossible to find a used T56 that inst thrashed. Combine purchase price, a rebuild, damaged hard parts and... you're above a new magnum. Cool, there are a few minor details that don't come with the trans, but still need to be handled
VSS pigtail. For some reason, magnums use a Ford VSS. Speedo cable. They have a spot for a mechanical speedo, but no driver included
VSS RA 645213
Speedo adapter Bowler transmission MD-506-1031 (order the proper driven wheel for your gear/tire size)
Exhaust is like oil pans, it changes for every build. A few things are the same for each though. Gaskets, hardware and clamps. You should only use MLS gaskets... ever. Take those graphite gaskets and put them in the trash where they belong. They blow out very quickly. Original manifold bolts should also be discarded. Alot of these have internal cracks and snap off when retorqued. New bolts are cheap, much easier than extracting more broken studs. If ordering SE headers, simply add MLS gaskets from their site. You'll get a freebie set of graphite gaskets and two sets of hardware. It's advisable to also get their plug with kit as many of their header offerings do not fit OEM strait plugs. Plug wire length refers to coil type. Square coils use the 12" wires. All others use 10". Top tier headers like SSW often do not have this issue, but are usually 3-4x the price. Clamps are nothing special, just super cheap on RA compared to stores
MLS gaskets RA 12617944
Hardware RA 03413
3" lap clamp RA 33222
2.5" lap clamp RA 33220
Power steering is a righteous pain sometimes. Inv flare box, metric pump, odd hose route etc. Frustrating. Here's a few PN's I go to frequently. If shopping for fittings, avoid anything aluminum
Hose kit. 6' of line, 2 str and 2 90* fittings SUM TGI-304057 excellent for DIY
Type II pump fitting SUM EAR-961961ERL Basically anything except a truck pump uses this
3/8" inv flare box to AN6 SUM OER-1253572 Good for most C10/similar trucks as the box is roughly the same location every time. Use a LS truck PS hose and done
Metric to AN6 SUM CLP-605ANF-OR 16mm and 18mm in a kit. ON a metric PS box, 18mm is pressure, 16mm is return. On truck PS pumps, 16mm is pressure
metric to inv flare SUM CLP-605SOL These are good when the new PS pump is in the same location as the original inv flare pump and the original high pressure line is reused. Also good for custom hardlines in a hydro-boost setup
metric to inv flare inserts SUM BRG-925122 Including these as an option. In my experience, they leak. Not my first choice
Pump pressure tube RA 3601311 This moves the pressure line from pointing strait back, to pointing forward. Makes routing the line easier sometimes
Don't forget fluids, they're more expensive than you'd think. I order them in bulk from RA for roughly half the price of a local parts store
That's only scratching the surface for parts that go into a swap. Feel free to add other stuff that you find is often overlooked when swapping
Mounts: SE 26-1036. These are inexpensive, have multiple mount positions and are well made. Have used about a dozen sets without a defect. Adapter to block and mount to adapter hardware included. Mounts and cross bolt are not
Rubber mounts RA 2285. Order these from RA for under $5 each. These fit any SBC equipped car with the rubber mount attached to the engine, not the frame
Cross bolts RA Needa 811014 $1 ea
Trans mount RA 6420 single bolt
Trans mount RA 2268 two bolts
I'm not putting pans in here because there is a sticky thread dedicated to them and they change with every swap
On the other hand, oil filters are often ignored. Oil filters come in two basic types. STD and metric threads. 97-07 ish OEM are all standard threads. 08ish and up plus all repops and aftermarket pans like holley use metric threads. There are a few exceptions to this, but for the most part this is how it is
Standard threads, RA WIX 51522
Metric threads, RA WIX 57060
Some engines have a factory oil cooler that is rarely used in a swap. Removing these is simple by unbolting them. The problem is it leaves the bypass port open on the oil pan. Sure, you can grab one from a junkyard, but replacements are so cheap, why bother with old used?
SUM 551621 flat block off
SUM 551608 w/ 1/8NPT gauge/turbo port
These use a real O-ring gasket and as long as it's not pinched, do an excellent job of sealing. Even with aftermarket pan kit like holley which come with a factory cast version, their gaskets leak like crazy. The OEM aluminum framed gaskets are all discontinued, so it's easier to just switch to these. Instant gauge port and no more leaks
Starters are often forgotten when pulling engines, and even harder to remember is the hardware. A regular M10 bolt wont cut it here. I run 99-07 truck starters on all my swaps. They're about as compact as can be, the most inexpensive of any LS starter and and use a classic ring terminal for the solenoid. Later starters use a connector that not everyone has. If you ever order one, remember there are two types. Early type I had two different length bolts, later type II had two bolts the same length
RA 678004 The drop down has a x2 for the type I pack and x1 for type II (2 reqd)
Trans, all my autos get rebuilt and never come with dipsticks or hardware. Anyone picking up a unit they didnt pull will be in the same boat. OEM locking dipsticks are really expensive. Like $50-80 for the locking stick alone, plus $30-50 for the tube. I prefer the transdapt dipstick because it's inexpensive, easy to install into most vehicles after the trans is installed (harder than you'd think on some), and low profile. It fits well on LS1/3/6 intakes along with truck and sheet metal pieces and clears most low profile hoods like 67-69 camaro, C3 etc. It's not made for LS trans though as the hold down tab goes to the empty bolt hole in the bellhousing. One can either weld a tab to a different hole or create your own stud. The latter is simple and requires a 1" 3/8 bolt,a washer and a nut. Simply insert the bolt in the unused bellhousing hole from the engine side. Use a nut/washer to press it into the hole just like you seat lug studs. Now, you have a permanent stud for the dipstick to mount. Since we're on trans stuff, here are converter bolts and misc trans fittings as well
Dipstick SUM 743865
Converter to flexplate bolts RA 14099
Case fittings inv flare for 5/16" hardlines SUM BCI-72001 (all 4L60E, early 80E)
Case fittings AN6 SUM ICB-551114 (all 4L60E, early 80E)
Case fittings AN6 SUM ICB-551124 (Late 4L80E)
Case fitting AN6 SUM 551121-6AN (6L80E/90E/8L90E) Most LT headers are not designed around the later 6/8spd trans and often come really close to this port. Low profile 90* fittings are often required
T56 magnum: these days it's nearly impossible to find a used T56 that inst thrashed. Combine purchase price, a rebuild, damaged hard parts and... you're above a new magnum. Cool, there are a few minor details that don't come with the trans, but still need to be handled
VSS pigtail. For some reason, magnums use a Ford VSS. Speedo cable. They have a spot for a mechanical speedo, but no driver included
VSS RA 645213
Speedo adapter Bowler transmission MD-506-1031 (order the proper driven wheel for your gear/tire size)
Exhaust is like oil pans, it changes for every build. A few things are the same for each though. Gaskets, hardware and clamps. You should only use MLS gaskets... ever. Take those graphite gaskets and put them in the trash where they belong. They blow out very quickly. Original manifold bolts should also be discarded. Alot of these have internal cracks and snap off when retorqued. New bolts are cheap, much easier than extracting more broken studs. If ordering SE headers, simply add MLS gaskets from their site. You'll get a freebie set of graphite gaskets and two sets of hardware. It's advisable to also get their plug with kit as many of their header offerings do not fit OEM strait plugs. Plug wire length refers to coil type. Square coils use the 12" wires. All others use 10". Top tier headers like SSW often do not have this issue, but are usually 3-4x the price. Clamps are nothing special, just super cheap on RA compared to stores
MLS gaskets RA 12617944
Hardware RA 03413
3" lap clamp RA 33222
2.5" lap clamp RA 33220
Power steering is a righteous pain sometimes. Inv flare box, metric pump, odd hose route etc. Frustrating. Here's a few PN's I go to frequently. If shopping for fittings, avoid anything aluminum
Hose kit. 6' of line, 2 str and 2 90* fittings SUM TGI-304057 excellent for DIY
Type II pump fitting SUM EAR-961961ERL Basically anything except a truck pump uses this
3/8" inv flare box to AN6 SUM OER-1253572 Good for most C10/similar trucks as the box is roughly the same location every time. Use a LS truck PS hose and done
Metric to AN6 SUM CLP-605ANF-OR 16mm and 18mm in a kit. ON a metric PS box, 18mm is pressure, 16mm is return. On truck PS pumps, 16mm is pressure
metric to inv flare SUM CLP-605SOL These are good when the new PS pump is in the same location as the original inv flare pump and the original high pressure line is reused. Also good for custom hardlines in a hydro-boost setup
metric to inv flare inserts SUM BRG-925122 Including these as an option. In my experience, they leak. Not my first choice
Pump pressure tube RA 3601311 This moves the pressure line from pointing strait back, to pointing forward. Makes routing the line easier sometimes
Don't forget fluids, they're more expensive than you'd think. I order them in bulk from RA for roughly half the price of a local parts store
That's only scratching the surface for parts that go into a swap. Feel free to add other stuff that you find is often overlooked when swapping
