Guys I have an LS powered 67 A Body with Holleys 302-1 oil pan. I'm unable to turn all the way right without the housing of the driver's side inner tie rod smacking the pan. Im thinking if I drill 2 new tapered holes in the center link 3/4" closer to each wheels from the factory holes I would be able to turn lock to lock without hitting the pan. I figured I could shorten each tierod assembly 3/4" and I would be good til I hit the alignment shop. So the question is, am I opening a can of worms with relocating the inner tierod mounting points???

 

the picture shows a test run hole I made on an extra centerline I had laying around.

 

The original holes are spaced like the inner control arm pivots. Moving them out will increase bump steer and other foibles. NOT a good idea....

 

As stated already I would not mess with the steering geometry. Easiest fix would be to try and shim the engine mounts up a bit or just order the correct 302-2 or 302-3 oil pan.

 

The holes are tapered not straight. That said I wouldn't drill new holes, it doesnt look very strong. Weak steering parts don't seem like a good idea. I would move the engine back.

 

I'm using a cts-v oil pan on my 72 A body. I just removed the grease fittings that hit the pan, replaced with allen plugs. I put the grease fittings back in to lube every year or 2.

 

Got a pic of it on the car? the part youre working on is the drag link.
I wouldnt modify the drag link, get a different pan or shift your engine around.
You can swap pitman arms, steering arms, and tie rods lengths to get different steering characteristics.