Was hoping someone could guide me in the right direction on what to do as I have been researching like crazy. 2001 Mustang 5.3 turbo swap in the near future. Gathering up all my parts. Have the Hooker mounting system (stock k member) with a 4L80e. I bought a complete engine from a 2000/2001 Silverado with wiring harness, which I am about done cleaning up the harness. Now I know the truck intake will not fit, so I found a good priced LS1 complete intake. I plan on using the truck wiring and truck ECM and perhaps the MAF for now (but I know everyone goes SD). I am assuming I should keep the truck OS on the ECM or should I move it to a Fbody (if possible)? I plan on running the ZL1 2.5 Map sensor, so I read that will cost more credits with HP. I would like to have done E85, but I know thats out with the stock ECM. Also I know about the segment swap I would need to do as well for the 4l80e (already swapped pins around). I had planned on using the Hooker Blackheart LS Turbo logs since i'm "not that strong a metal crafter". Then maybe going with this turbo? Assuming I would need dual V band. https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-g...l-v-band-7875/ Then maybe some SEP 1000's for injectors. Also on the fuel side I wasn't sure if I should go for the 97 Vette regulator/filter since mine is a return-less system and maybe the Walbro 400 fuel pump with 6AN line. Was shooting for around 600-700hp, but seeing meth may be involved to get there. Thanks!

 

Hmmm, so no one has done a New Edge Mustang swap using a 5.3, LS1/LS6 intake and a turbo?

 

Usually people use a rising rate regulator to increase fuel pressure when under boost. I and many other have used e85 with the stock ecu no problems. E85 in a car with an open fuel system and months of no use was not good for me.

The only downside of SD that I see is if you get a large intake vacuum leak, the engine will run without throttle input. If it’s a large leak like a cracked manifold from overboost, it’s stuck wide open

.1000 cc injectors will be well more than you need

 

You'd get more boost responses if this was posted in the boost subsection instead of conversions. You can get a billet 7875 off eBay for 280. Do a hot wire kit and a 450 and put a real regulator on it and you won't have to worry about the fuel system. Stock ecu OS is fine.

 

Thank you both for that info. That's the problem with reading old posts, you sometimes never get the full story or the correct story. I did just now find a video on the process of changing your 411 ECM to the 2002 Tahoe flex fuel version with HP. That is great to know as I really wanted to run it, but thought it required a Termi X. Unfortunately I do not have the HP device yet, so I cannot go looking at the Tune Repository. I have other things to buy first as this is a budget fun car. What happened on yours CDK? Did the fuel dry up with it being open? Do you all recommend a good budget regulator? I was going to buy a 6AN adapter for the fuel rail to convert that, but here is the odd thing. Someone took out the schrader valve on the rail (where people normally hook up a gauge) and put on a male 6AN fitting. Does this mean you can essentially run the 2 6AN lines as feeds from the regulator to those points? Is that a good or bad idea? I am afraid to take it off as no telling how its on there. I may buy a 6 AN cap if its not needed. If thats the case, then I will run 8AN as a feed to be safe and 10 gauge wire for the pump.

 

I used the basic Racetronix boost referenced FPR and it works well.

 

Yes the ethanol evaporated and left the gue and clogged all injectors and lines.

 

Not sure how far you got with this but I had 2 New Edge Mustangs that I took 2 different routes on so I figured I'd toss my hat in the ring.
-As others have said the stock ECM is fine with Flex. It'll be limited at a 2bar OS on the 411 PCM but still a fun setup. I setup one of my cars this way but never put flex in it. Sensor works fine.
-I run SD with no O2s. Tuned perfectly when it's hot outside it does run a little richer when it's cold here in New England but never been an issue. Driveability is excellent on both cars. O2s can be used.
-If you're going turbo I would highly recommend ditching the MAF
-Any gas engine with a huge intake leak will idle up. That's basically what an idle valve does is create extra air to increase idle. Don't be afraid of breaking one of these manifolds, I've only seen 1 actually explode in my life. They can take a lot of boost in stock form. I've never seen one run away.
-Don't worry about the HP Tuners credits. You will HAVE to license the computer you plan to run. You can stop there if that computer is enough to meet your needs. If you want to swap to flex I believe you'll have to license that file as well. More than likely none of those will have the 4l80e segment you need. Sometimes you can get lucky and swap without licensing but more than likely not. Best bet, find someone that has done both flex and 80e already and get that file. Then you only have to license once. Well twice counting the original PCM.
-Buy a 3 bar map sensor from EFIsource. They make ones specific to that ls1 intake manifold so you won't have to do any weird things to mount it. Just plug and play. Since you licensed your PCM you can change anything you want, anytime you want for free after the initial cost.
-Ebay rising rate regulator.... they're cheap and seem to work fine. I've had no issues. You can spend more money on a name brand one, your call.
-Corvette regulator setup..... I've run this as well. Works fine. The Walbro 450 did push hard on mine so my base fuel pressure was a little higher. Never was an issue I just tuned it that way. Dropped a little at 14lbs but not an issue.
-The returnless system on a Mustang vs GM is quite different. Mustang regulates the voltage to the pump as demand is required so it truly is a returnless system with 1 feed line. GM still needs a return line even if you run the corvette regulator setup. Not a big deal I just shot a hole through my fuel hat and put in a new feed, used the old feed as a return.
-I've run decapped and also Snake Eaters. Decaps worked fine and they're not very expensive for a set of near 80lb injectors. Snake Eaters are a good price for what you get too, Decaps with a single 450 and E85 should get you to mid to low 600 range.
-The 6an on your rail where your schrader valve was is bizarre. I'm assuming they had their FPR mounted there and returned that way but with fuel coming in the same side I'm not sure how well that would work with the injectors on the opposite side. Could be worth a try maybe or just capping it would be fine as well. If I use a stock rail I usually put my fuel pressure sensor right there.
-I built my own turbo system so I have no idea what will fit as far as premade log manifolds. I wouldn't even try to go turbo if I couldn't fabricate or didn't know anyone that could help out. If you're dead set on a turbo setup I agree with others and would say just grab an Ebay 7875. They can be found for sub $280 and its got a small frame that will help a lot as room runs out quick on these Mustangs.
-That 4l80e is a bohemoth. The only way I got mine in was with a BFH and cutting the factory Ford mounts off. I then had to fabricate something to remount the tail of the 80e. Not sure what kind of kits are out there for this but I believe some fab work will need to be done.
Good luck I hope this helps out a bit. I love repowered New Edge Mustangs. Hopefully you make a build thread.

 

This is full of some great info SwapStang. Thank you so much for this as it’s very helpful! I am still collecting parts, so perfect timing.