T56 to 4.8L
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2022
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T56 to 4.8L I looked on here but there was so much varying information, decided to ask my question to see if I am on the correct path…
2005 Tahoe 4.8L (was an auto) getting paired to a 1999 Fbody T56.
From the Fbody I have:
flywheel
clutch and pressure plate
bellhousing
so all I should need to do is swap the pilot bearing to the 1999 Fbody pilot correct? Or am I missing something?
2005 Tahoe 4.8L (was an auto) getting paired to a 1999 Fbody T56.
From the Fbody I have:
flywheel
clutch and pressure plate
bellhousing
so all I should need to do is swap the pilot bearing to the 1999 Fbody pilot correct? Or am I missing something?
For some reason, and I can't say exactly why, but I swear I remember some certain OEM cranks either won't take a pilot bearing or uses a different pilot bearing.
If I'm wrong, please someone correct me, but I'm pretty sure I read a post where someone ran into this.
If I'm wrong, please someone correct me, but I'm pretty sure I read a post where someone ran into this.
Just get the '98-02 Fbody LS1 T56 pilot bearing. RockAuto or Summit has them. Also the LUK slave for the Fbody is needed.
When you put it together don't force the bellhousing to mate up with the block... meaning with the bolts other than very lightly. If you get a ton of tension and it isn't moving together and you continue to force it... you will either break the bellhousing or snap the ears off the block. It is rare but I have had a 5.3 where I needed to cut off about 1/3" off the tip of the input shaft and put a bevel back on. This was using a Quicktime BH so maybe that caused part of the issues... but the input shaft was bottoming out inside the back of the crank before the BH and block could meet. Make sure the 2 dowels are also in the block for the BH to go over.
This would be a great time to put in a Truck Norris cam from BTR if you want a cheap cam that doesn't need valve springs and gives it some chop/more power.
When you put it together don't force the bellhousing to mate up with the block... meaning with the bolts other than very lightly. If you get a ton of tension and it isn't moving together and you continue to force it... you will either break the bellhousing or snap the ears off the block. It is rare but I have had a 5.3 where I needed to cut off about 1/3" off the tip of the input shaft and put a bevel back on. This was using a Quicktime BH so maybe that caused part of the issues... but the input shaft was bottoming out inside the back of the crank before the BH and block could meet. Make sure the 2 dowels are also in the block for the BH to go over.
This would be a great time to put in a Truck Norris cam from BTR if you want a cheap cam that doesn't need valve springs and gives it some chop/more power.
I think the issue is that some LS style cranks have different lengths. Not sure if that applies to a 4.8.
