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Built 6.0 with a LSA from boost district, BD upgraded HX, Varimax pump, Routing is correct, however I am getting IAT 50 over ambient. When I first start the car I see the temp is very close to ambient so I know my sensor is working correctly. Driving around the temps just keep going UP and UP. However if when I stop the temps seem to drop a few, that seems opposite as to what should happen. Running 70 distilled water w water wetter, I had coolant before and nothing changed.
Routing as follows. top of lid to resiviour (top) - bottom of res feeds pump - HX -Lid (top). I have also tried a air shroud to make sure that air was not blocked by my bumper. I have moved around my Intake as well as ran w the hood propped open and no change.
oh and the bypass is opening when I start the car. the pump comes on w the key, so I can hear it run before the car starts.
The only things I can think of is if one the orange gasket is somehow not seated correctly or the pump is doing something funny when im driving.
Last edited by itskamel; Sep 30, 2023 at 08:54 AM.
I thought with the way it is routed using the res, that the air should work its way out. and wouldn't the pump shut down when a air pocket hits it? however i am learning and will take another look.
There can be air trapped in the top of the heat exchanger and or the brick and still have water passing through. No the pump won't stop running it will actually rev up really high when an air pocket goes through it. If a big enough slug of air gets to the pump it can actually air lock the system and fluid will stop flowing.
Depending on the setup no matter how well thought out these things can be a PITA to get the air out of. I have even heard of guys having to use a shop vac to suck the air out of their system.
My setup consists of mostly factory GM parts and through dumb luck it works incredibly well and has been easy to bleed. IATs are normally less than 20 above ambient and only climb about 10 to 15 above that during a hard pull and then it comes right back down.
There can be air trapped in the top of the heat exchanger and or the brick and still have water passing through. No the pump won't stop running it will actually rev up really high when an air pocket goes through it. If a big enough slug of air gets to the pump it can actually air lock the system and fluid will stop flowing.
Depending on the setup no matter how well thought out these things can be a PITA to get the air out of. I have even heard of guys having to use a shop vac to suck the air out of their system.
My setup consists of mostly factory GM parts and through dumb luck it works incredibly well and has been easy to bleed. IATs are normally less than 20 above ambient and only climb about 10 to 15 above that during a hard pull and then it comes right back down.
This is a very crude drawing of my layout.
mine is like that aswell but with a icebox before the pump. and i do not have a "T"
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LSA swap High IAT 
