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On my 1936 chevy coupe with LS1 gen 3 swap, I installed a keyless entry system and power door locks. I am having difficulty getting the passenger side door locks to work. I installed a universal body wiring harness that provided a single circuit that splits between drive and pass doors for locks. I installed dual bank relays on the inside door locks and they work just fine. After installing the aftermarket keyless entry system the pass door lock just "bumps", as though it were being robbed of power. If I disconnect the inside pass door lock wire the keyless system works great. What am I missing here? Any one have a diagram for wiring diagram for a fresh build using aftermarket, 5 wire inside door lock switches and after market keyless entry for BOTH doors. All the diagrams I find they either don't show both doors for keyless entry or no diagrams for how to include aftermarket inside switches with a keyless entry. I've wasted 4 days trying to figure this out so you can imagine my desperation and I would like to finish this build and get it off to upholster.
I've shared that frustration on a few past builds. I recommend removing the switch and one motor. Build a bench top harness and get it working manually. You probably have a wire switched, ground loose, etc. Much easier to figure out a circuit when it's not wrapped up completely. Since one side works and the other is inop, I'd start there
Once the circuit works, refer to the keyless system's manual. Most have a bunch of ways to wire up the remote lock controls. iKey, Amazon stuff, no names etc all are different. Occasionally it matters on the lock solenoid end as a few are + or grd only, have a dedicated +/- or something along those lines. Lord help if something is mispinned or a diagram incorrect. There can possibly be alot of guess and check on this simple system
I know "refer to the manual" isn't much help, but there really isn't a way know what way to direct you without getting just as deep into the weeds with you
yes I do. I have lost a week over this nonsense, just shouldn't be this hard to wire. Geez I've wired the entire car from scratch and am down to just a pass door lock function.
I've shared that frustration on a few past builds. I recommend removing the switch and one motor. Build a bench top harness and get it working manually. You probably have a wire switched, ground loose, etc. Much easier to figure out a circuit when it's not wrapped up completely. Since one side works and the other is inop, I'd start there
Once the circuit works, refer to the keyless system's manual. Most have a bunch of ways to wire up the remote lock controls. iKey, Amazon stuff, no names etc all are different. Occasionally it matters on the lock solenoid end as a few are + or grd only, have a dedicated +/- or something along those lines. Lord help if something is mispinned or a diagram incorrect. There can possibly be alot of guess and check on this simple system
I know "refer to the manual" isn't much help, but there really isn't a way know what way to direct you without getting just as deep into the weeds with you
I finally got it figured out. I think after days of this wiring problem I just got too caught up in schematics when I should have taken a simple look at what I needed. I only needed to match and tie in the wiring from drivers door for pass door to operate correctly. All is working like it should. After thinking about it over night I came to the conclusion I was making this harder than what it needed to be. Part of this was due to wiring relays for both the inside lock and unlock switches from wiring harness and wiring in lock and unlock relays for keyless entry and the fact the generic body harness provided a lead to both doors. Don't even get me started on the overseas keyless entry for lack of instructions, but that is my fault in the end. Only one inside lock/unlock hot lead is need so as to tie both inside door switches together. In otherwords you essentally have 2 master door switches. Geez, cost me a week but hey I can get her off to upholster now. Thanks for taking your time to respond.
*BTW I blew through almost a dozen fuses getting this straightened out.
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Power door inside switches and keyless entry 
