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I would park the car in front of the garage, use a powered winch or set of pulleys and your truck to pull it into the garage to pull the motor/trans, then release the winch to roll it onto the pavers in the driveway to close the garage. rinse and repeat until the project is done. that way you shouldn't get a ticket unless your HOA has issues.
that way its parked on your property, and the jacks and engine hoist wont bust up your pavers or sink into the asphalt on your street when you actually do the work.
your driveway pavers will keep engine hoists or jacks from rolling properly when loaded, so dont even consider trying that.
since the LS / 58-64 Impala combo isnt a catalog kit project (meaning you cant order everything from a catalog) you will need to fab some parts or have connections that can fab parts.
I would go bigger than the 4.8 you mention in post #5. that impala is a large chunk of metal. if sticking naturally aspirated, I would go 6.0 or 6.2 from a low mileage donor. as stated above, unless you get a low mileage drivelline, plan on rebuilding the motor. your HAMB post has it as a 200k motor. that is getting into core motor/trans territory. and I wouldnt spend more than $700 for a core motor and trans. $4k for a truck with a 4.8 with 200k is about $3k more than you should need to spend.
we do not know your capabilities, so we can not comment on your ability to do it in 2 months.
there are a couple of later LS powered impalas on hotrodders.com.
there are also a large number of low mileage well-built small blocks being pulled from cars for LS swaps. locally, a few 383's were pulled and for sale for less than $800 because they were being swapped for LS and turbos. if your issue is to keep the impala running, any Gen 1 SBC from 265 cubes to a 400 will bolt in place of your 327 within 8-10 hours (depending on your ability)
L series truck engines have deeper oil pans that hang down too low in a car and much taller intake manifolds that will probably hit the hood in a car. Both may not work on your Impala. You may need an intake and oil pan from an F Body car (Camaro or Firebird). With two month schedule, outside in the weather and darkness in the evenings, lying on your back, never done this before, and neighbors that may not put up with your project, lots of things against you. Wiring and fuel system are other big issues. That Impala also has a 2 piece drive shaft with a hanger bearing in the middle (I always hated that set up). At least get it in the garage and you have a lot better chance and it will buy you some time. OR as said in earlier posts, get another SBC.
Last edited by Austin Phil; Jan 26, 2026 at 03:05 PM.
Doing the swap on the street? Not a good idea IMO. Almost impossible not to get oil/power steering fluid/antifrezze out the car without putting some of it on the asphalt or your cobble stones. Neighbors and the city will not like you. I would never be ok with a car on jack stands on a angled drive way.
Antifrezze will kill your dog/cat or neighbors dog/cat and any little critters that comes by.
Also jack stands can sink into warm/hot asphalt and kill you.
If this is your first LS swap I would buy a ECM/engine harness from one of the vendors on this site.
Don't know if it works for you but rent a indoor storage space that fits your car size for the length of your build time? Big enough to store parts and tools?
Yeah after taking with you guys and the hamb guys I’m going to scrap the LS swap and stick with the SBC. Those guys on YouTube should stop raving and misleading people into thinking that LS swaps are easy and cheap.
Yeah mean I could put a 4.8L and bolt it direct to the current 4 speed Muncie tranny and put a Edelbrock carb? The neighbors don’t care. I’m cool with them. I installed the 4 speed Muncie on the street last year.
Yes, you could bolt ANY LS up to your current muncie assuming your bellhousing is for an 11" clutch vs a 10.5, as LS's only come with 168 tooth flywheels and not the 153 tooth flywheels for the 10.5". if you have an 11" clutch behind your 327, you can use your current bellhousing. if you have a 10.5" clutch, you can still run your current bellhousing, however will need a custom 153 tooth flyheel, and a unique starter for the 153 tooth flywheel. they make them, just not common. used in Toyota LS swaps. you can run the MSD 6014 or Daytona Sensors ignition and use an appropriate 4150 style intake manifold and be running a carb. I personally wouldnt run an Edelbrock carb if you paid me, however some people like them. What ratio Muncie? what final drive?
Last edited by Scott Danforth; Jan 27, 2026 at 08:26 AM.
The car was originally a 3 on the tree which I converted to a M20 Muncie. I’m not a physics or computer buy but can follow clear instructions.
Motor swap is easy if you are leaving the transmission.
however need to know what you are starting with. so which flywheel do you have in the car now? 153 tooth ring gear or 168 tooth ring gear? that determines the bellhousing and your course of action. if you do not know, stick your head under the car. are the starter bolts staggered or in-line? you have homework to do.
if you are just doing a motor swap and running carb, skip any thought of buying a complete donor truck. not worth it, not needed, juice isnt worth the squeeze. just buy a long-block....you get more for much less than spending $4k on a motor that needs to be rebuilt that is in a junk truck that needs to be scrapped. if you want to swap to an LS, you will need a swap oil pan, a carb intake, the stand along ignition, etc. if you stick with a Gen 1 motor, its pretty much an 8 hour ordeal to swap the motor.
Back to the flywheel and bellhousing. what are you starting with?
what is your total budget?
no you still cant work on it in the street, so plan on working on the motor in your garage, and doing teh swap with the car hanging out the garage.
Man I’m not sure the flywheel teeth. I know it’s stock for 63 since I have it resurfaced when I did the 4 speed install. The bell housing isn’t from a 63. It’s later from a gto or something. I can buy all that stuff if I need to. I revised my plan to including the garage but only the pics I posted . The wife parks on the other side and I can move it if I need to but at night it has to sleep in the garage. I have a bench seat in the 63 which hopefully won’t get in the way of the new shifter. I was thinking stock fuel injection and fuel pumps are the way to go. After all I want the fuel economy of a Honda.
I was thinking stock fuel injection and fuel pumps are the way to go. After all I want the fuel economy of a Honda.
then buy a honda. fuel economy has less to do with the type of induction, and more to do with how much HP is needed to move the vehicle down the road.
you still have to figure out the flywheel before you worry about anything.else if you are keeping your transmission. that is the first bit of information that determines the direction. the next now is the fuel system since you were talking carb, you are now talking keeping it EFI. figure out a direction and nail it down. as stated prior, a truck intake probably wont work, truck pan wont work. hope you have a good understanding of tuning.
and your car fits in the garage, so no problem there. you will need to roll it back when you have the engine hoist on it, and roll it back in to close the door
Yeah thanks I’m doing my homework with the help of everyone from this forum and impala forum. Only girls drive Hondas. I will buy whatever I need to get this done. Screw the carb that’s what the SBC is for. I’ll get whatever it takes to get my car running right and fuel efficient. I think at the end of the day this project will be more custom than 1 size fits all Miata’s scenerio. If you think my space is adequate then I have more time to do it properly. I’m adding another photo of my sloped driveway which I can use.
Yeah like you said I have to do homework and getting the info is from different sources and folks like yourself that are really helpful. I appreciate it.
As stated prior, swapping SBC for SBC regardless of induction is 8 hours
You can swap an LS in there vs the current Gen I SBC in about the same time assuming you have all the parts on hand, and bolted to the motor before you pull the 327
Getting it running with a carb is about another 2-3 hours
Getting it running and tuned with EFI depends on which system you go with. Is you do not know how to tune, get a self tuning system
I swapped/restored a 64 Impala. Can your swap be done in the street? Sure. It is going to suck, and you will be beholden to daylight and weather conditions. If you catch a week of rain? You basically just lost a week of work. Working in the dark with flashlights is never fun. You're essentially setting yourself up for a an endeavor that is going to be more frustrating than fun due to the conditions in which you are trying to accomplish your goal.
I can tell you from the start that you need an F-Body oil pan. The truck oil pan will not fit, and you are still probably going to have to notch the crossmember. For manifolds, you will need LS3 Camaro manifolds if you aren't doing headers, and they will need moderate clearancing. You aren't using the truck's driveshaft without modifying the driveshaft tunnel in the frame. Inland Empire does make two-piece shafts for the X-frame cars.