LS1 grounding
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: New Market, MD
LS1 grounding How many ground wires are most of you guys running on your LS1 swaps. I was thinking of running a cable to each of the cylinder heads and one to the block on one side. Is this overkill or not enough. I know aluminum isn't a great conductor of electricity just trying to get some guidance. Thanks.
Jason
Jason
Aluminum is a fabulous electrical conductor. The bus-bar on most industrial load panels is made out of it, lugs on circuit breakers, etc.
I have two ground straps on mine. The factory one near the alternator goes to the driver side frame rail, and I added one from the rear of the driver side head to my firewall, as that head has the harness ground bundle. No electrical gremlins in 6 road course track events, road trip to Indy, and several thousand street miles this year.
I have two ground straps on mine. The factory one near the alternator goes to the driver side frame rail, and I added one from the rear of the driver side head to my firewall, as that head has the harness ground bundle. No electrical gremlins in 6 road course track events, road trip to Indy, and several thousand street miles this year.
I went from the negative battery terminal to the block (using the bolt holes where the A/C compressor mounting bracket would be), then from the block to the subframe from one of the threaded holes on the driver's side of the block (near engine mounts). Also added another from block to body on the passenger side of the block using another one of those holes near the engine mounts.
I guess I'm in the minority. I have one that goes from the motor mount plate to the frame. On the '68-82 Corvettes, the battery is behind the driver, so there is a small ground cable from the negative terminal to the frame back there that grounds the whole frame. I haven't had any issues since I made sure that there was a good ground connection on that one strap.
