When swapping in an LS1, how do you make sure its aligned?
#1
Staging Lane
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Well, do you just measure from the valve cover to the fenders or some other part of the car, and then go straight from there? OR is there another way to do it? When I start my LS1 swap, I dont want it to be all croocked and then when I go to start it, it breaks itself loose because it was not aligned perfectly. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
#2
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For me, this was the toughest part of the swap. With my car, I very little to go on for reference points.
In a C4, I think it will be much easier. For one thing, I think you can re-use the trans mount. I guess that depends on the year though. If you are going from T56 to T56 or 700r4 to 4l60e - easy. If you're going from that 4+3 to something else - I dunno.
Also, your motor mounts will be pretty close. You can probably even buy conversion mounts.
Otherwise, you have to use the frame, the crank/trans center line and any other reference points to ensure orthoganality of the driveline. the imaginary line (ray) from the trans output must be parallel to the line (ray) from the diff. input. Otherwise you get nasy vibrations and early ujoint failure.
In a C4, I think it will be much easier. For one thing, I think you can re-use the trans mount. I guess that depends on the year though. If you are going from T56 to T56 or 700r4 to 4l60e - easy. If you're going from that 4+3 to something else - I dunno.
Also, your motor mounts will be pretty close. You can probably even buy conversion mounts.
Otherwise, you have to use the frame, the crank/trans center line and any other reference points to ensure orthoganality of the driveline. the imaginary line (ray) from the trans output must be parallel to the line (ray) from the diff. input. Otherwise you get nasy vibrations and early ujoint failure.
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Even if I use the kit, the kit looks like one of those plate you bolt to the frame, And then a U bar thats bolted to the Motor mount of the LS1. Then you have to put the engine in the car, and then weld in the U bar to the plate. So even if I get the kit, it looks like I would have to do that. Also is the LS1 block the same dimension as a SBC? And could it mount up the trannys that the SBC could to? I dont know if the new LS1 4L60e transmissions are different to the ones that bolt to SBC's. Does anyone know if other trannys work with LS1's? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
#4
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Whoawhoa, this is over complicated than what you need to do.
1) Buy the motor mount conversion plates from Street and Performance for 80 bucks.
2) Bolt them to the block (they come with the bolts)
3) Bolt the stock motor mounts to the plates (direct bolt up)
4) bolt the engine directly into your stock motor mount location using your stock frame motor mounts and stock everything
5) no aligning nessesary, the motor is exactly as far set back as stock, your tranny bolts straight up and stock driveline.
1) Buy the motor mount conversion plates from Street and Performance for 80 bucks.
2) Bolt them to the block (they come with the bolts)
3) Bolt the stock motor mounts to the plates (direct bolt up)
4) bolt the engine directly into your stock motor mount location using your stock frame motor mounts and stock everything
5) no aligning nessesary, the motor is exactly as far set back as stock, your tranny bolts straight up and stock driveline.
#5
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Hey C4VetteLS1, If I go with the SP mounts and an LS1 without the AIR pump and the smog parts like Cat and other BS. How much would that drop my weight of the corvette? 100lbs? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />