How do I make my 8.5 10 bolt strong?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 4
From: The trailer park
I'm building a new rear, so far i'm getting/done...
30 spline moser axles (c-clip.. is that something I should look to replace?)
Detroit Tru-Trac 30 spline
solid pinion spacer
4:10 motive ring/pinion
welded tubes...
All new bearings
ARP main cap studs
How can i make this thing bulletproof? I'm real nervous about dropping a grand and then breaking this thing.
ALSO, How wide of tires will i need behind my '67 to get the thing to be safe (read, no spinning 4th gear) on the street?
any advice will be great
olly
30 spline moser axles (c-clip.. is that something I should look to replace?)
Detroit Tru-Trac 30 spline
solid pinion spacer
4:10 motive ring/pinion
welded tubes...
All new bearings
ARP main cap studs
How can i make this thing bulletproof? I'm real nervous about dropping a grand and then breaking this thing.
ALSO, How wide of tires will i need behind my '67 to get the thing to be safe (read, no spinning 4th gear) on the street?
any advice will be great
olly
Last edited by 67RSCamaroVette; Feb 3, 2006 at 12:38 AM.
I think both questions come down to how much power are you making. 10 bolts are quite strong. So if it is a 11sec+ street car you should have no problem. As far as spinning I think your suspension is something to look at. But with a manual and 4.10's the shift to 4th may produce some smoke. I would personally put the widest ones that will fit. Not sure what that is.
I just finished mine. Basically the same as what you are doing. We went with Eaton 800# carrier, 3.91 gear, Yukon axles and a Moser cover.The cover is the coolest part. Thick cast alum with studs that brace the main caps. Check those out.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 4
From: The trailer park
I get it. FYI the 8.5 is nearly as strong as a 12 bolt. Thanks for replies, everyone, I think i'll be just fine the way it is, maybe add the aforementioned stud girdle cover in the future. Appreciate the information,
olly
olly
You might think seriously about C-clip eliminator hardware.
The C-clips are what retain the axles. They're inside the diff / limited slip / locker. If you break an axle anywhere, the axle can leave the rear. Changing to Ford style retainers involves changing to pressed on axle shaft bearings (the ones at the ends of the axle tubes) which are what holds the axle shaft in place. At that point, you can break the axle almost anywhere (except the very end) and the wheel stays where it belongs and doesn't pass you.
If you're running disc brakes, most factory brake caliper & rotor setups will likely act as a retainer, making the c-clip eliminator unnecessary.
Other than that, yeah, I think you're on the right path. There are quite a number of Turbo Buicks running very hard on the 8.5" rear.
'JustDreamin'
The C-clips are what retain the axles. They're inside the diff / limited slip / locker. If you break an axle anywhere, the axle can leave the rear. Changing to Ford style retainers involves changing to pressed on axle shaft bearings (the ones at the ends of the axle tubes) which are what holds the axle shaft in place. At that point, you can break the axle almost anywhere (except the very end) and the wheel stays where it belongs and doesn't pass you.
If you're running disc brakes, most factory brake caliper & rotor setups will likely act as a retainer, making the c-clip eliminator unnecessary.
Other than that, yeah, I think you're on the right path. There are quite a number of Turbo Buicks running very hard on the 8.5" rear.
'JustDreamin'
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 4
From: The trailer park
Yeah, thats the article that inspired me to go get an 8.5, but i'm taking their recommendations with a pinch of salt. They dont mention that the stock axles arent great, and show a photo of an Eaton Gov-Lok as if it would be a good choice. I'm simply building the housing with the best components i can find..



