Got my manifold painted
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 6
From: Olivehurst, CA
Got my manifold painted Got my manifold back from the body man today. He smoothed it real well, painted it with plastic primer, then painted it to match my car. It is a single stage PPG Concept paint, came out looking great! I also had him modify my dash to include a tach. I found the Sun mini tach that had a chrome bezel and matched my Dolphin Gauges pretty well. I had space to add it to my dash, so had Claude french it in to match the others. He did a great job! Now I am thinking about what color I want my fuel rail covers to be. I think I want something that contrasts because I have so much red already. Maybe a silver with the Studebaker logo in red.
I also discoved a major screw up on my part. I raised the engine to gain clearance for the exhaust and alternator, but doing that has put my tail shaft too high so now my drive shaft hits a crossmember between the trans and rear end. So now I need to figure a way to relocate the crossmember or reposition the motor. I am also looking at going to a smaller diameter drive shaft to help gain some clearance. I have a 3.25 inch shaft now. I know some of the early LT1s used a 2.5 and my stock Firebird LS1 shaft is 2.75. I am reluctant to go smaller though because my drive shaft is long, almost 60 inches. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Pat
I also discoved a major screw up on my part. I raised the engine to gain clearance for the exhaust and alternator, but doing that has put my tail shaft too high so now my drive shaft hits a crossmember between the trans and rear end. So now I need to figure a way to relocate the crossmember or reposition the motor. I am also looking at going to a smaller diameter drive shaft to help gain some clearance. I have a 3.25 inch shaft now. I know some of the early LT1s used a 2.5 and my stock Firebird LS1 shaft is 2.75. I am reluctant to go smaller though because my drive shaft is long, almost 60 inches. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Pat
Manifold looks awesome!!!
Also, just throwing this out there... my Jag had a 2 part driveshaft... there was actually another U joint or CV joint or some sort of joint that pivoted halfway down the trans tunnel, fixed to another crossmember. Not sure what the driveshaft OD was but it wasn't 3.5" wide if I remember correctly. Just a thought!
Also, just throwing this out there... my Jag had a 2 part driveshaft... there was actually another U joint or CV joint or some sort of joint that pivoted halfway down the trans tunnel, fixed to another crossmember. Not sure what the driveshaft OD was but it wasn't 3.5" wide if I remember correctly. Just a thought!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 6
From: Olivehurst, CA
Thanks FastKat,
Actually this car originally had a 2 piece drive shaft and the offending crossmember was used to hold the carrier bearing. The car was fitted for a one piece unit when the 350 was installed. I did some searching on the Internet last night (man I love Google! they deserve every cent they make!) and actually found a discussion from the Studebaker Drivers Club web page where one of the "experts" there said that crossmember can be removed if you change to a one piece shaft. So I am going to look closely at that and hopefully that will gain enough clearance to keep my larger diameter shaft. In my research I have also found a lot about drive shaft critical speed and the larger shaft is defnitely more desirable from that perspective. Plus if I can keep my present shaft I just need to have it shortened an inch or so instead of building a whole new one. And that would save me some $$, a real plus for a change on this project
Pat
Actually this car originally had a 2 piece drive shaft and the offending crossmember was used to hold the carrier bearing. The car was fitted for a one piece unit when the 350 was installed. I did some searching on the Internet last night (man I love Google! they deserve every cent they make!) and actually found a discussion from the Studebaker Drivers Club web page where one of the "experts" there said that crossmember can be removed if you change to a one piece shaft. So I am going to look closely at that and hopefully that will gain enough clearance to keep my larger diameter shaft. In my research I have also found a lot about drive shaft critical speed and the larger shaft is defnitely more desirable from that perspective. Plus if I can keep my present shaft I just need to have it shortened an inch or so instead of building a whole new one. And that would save me some $$, a real plus for a change on this project
Pat
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
Great looking parts!! I love the gauges too. I agree that you would want to keep the larger diameter shaft. My sedan has a huge shaft (3.75")and some of my "associates" locally kidded me about having a "motorhome" driveshaft in the car!
Ahh, I checked out the critical speed and it looks like it falls as your driveshaft gets longer, all other things held constant. Perhaps that is why the two piece driveshaft was use... it would let you run a smaller diameter because the length is cut in half. Any reason you're not just modifying the front of the original two piece driveshaft?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 6
From: Olivehurst, CA
Thanks Oscar,
FastKat, the original 2 piece drive shaft is long gone, and was designed for a flathead six cylinder with about 90 hp. I believe it will be OK with the crossmember removed. If it appears to tweek the frame without it, then I will figure out a replacement that will make room for the drive shaft.
thanks for your input folks
Pat
FastKat, the original 2 piece drive shaft is long gone, and was designed for a flathead six cylinder with about 90 hp. I believe it will be OK with the crossmember removed. If it appears to tweek the frame without it, then I will figure out a replacement that will make room for the drive shaft.
thanks for your input folks
Pat
