exstended cab s10 drive shaft????help please
exstended cab s10 drive shaft????help please what is everyone doing for a drvie shaft for an ext. cab using the carrier bearing or no?????? thanks in advantce it is a 95 s10
Yes I used the carrier bearing. It is actually a pretty good setup, and you have just enough adjustment in the carrier bearing support to slide it back about the 1/2" you need. Then get the 1/2" axle setback plates from someone like JTR and your good to go. But if you end up getting an 8.5" which makes you lose another 1/2" then just get your driveshaft shortened an inch or so.
Driveshaft Don't know if I need to mention this or not, on the subject of driveshafts...But, when I used my exsisting full-size 1996 GMC/Chevy truck driveshaft, that was in the the original 4.3 Litre 4L60E...and put it in my new 2001 F-Body 4L60E tranny, it leaked all the tranny oil out of the end of the input shaft due to there being a hole down through the center of the input shaft, which I guess they all have(?). After some research, I was told to silicone in a beer bottle cap down in there over the top of the hole(by a transmission shop, no less). It actually fit perfect. But I don't like jerry rigging things like this & will weld the hole shut. Evidently, the F-Body driveshafts don't have this pressure relief hole, OR...The F-Body tailstock does not have oil in it. Don't know if this applies to your situation... 
Gar
Gar I went to a single for two reasons...
1) No more dragging your crossmember (lowest part on frame)
2) Just cheaper and easier in the long run.
You can use an aluminum one from a full size and get it cut to length.
1) No more dragging your crossmember (lowest part on frame)
2) Just cheaper and easier in the long run.
You can use an aluminum one from a full size and get it cut to length.
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i know i bought the LS1 conversion book for a refernce and in it he was able to use his stock driveshaft (he started with a 2.2l and manual and went to an ls6 and 4l60e setup) without any modifications in his ext. cab s-10
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Brett Foote If it were up to me...I would skip the 9" idea and get a 8.8 if your looking for a strong and cheap axle that bolts right up. For the same price i paid for my used 8.5 i could have built an 8.8 with custom axles and disk brakes and retained the 5x4.75 lug pattern. And that was with a Detroit Trutrac. Too bad i figured this out AFTER I had bought my 8.5" oh well you live you learn. And all it takes is a U-joint with caps that fit the 8.8 and the s10 driveshaft....
