Awsome car! Bout to do the same swap any pointers or things i can read up on to make my swap easier thanks !

 

What Headers Did You Use

 

it's got mac 351w/fox swap w/ 1 3/4" primaries.

 

Did you have to do any thing to the headers to make them fit the ls1?

 

I have a few questions for you on this if you can help please? i'm going down the Edelbrock/msd route myself with a Demon carb (750cfm with mech secondary. does the edelbrock manifold vac take off point need hooking up to the demon carb at all if i'm using a mech secondary carb? if not, do i just plug the vac points on the manifold?

Also i bought an LS1 which had the efi manifold plenum and all assosciated gubbins removed, so i'm unsure what i need to hook up crankcase breathers etc? i will be running a dry sump oil system and will i assume have to return any breathers from the top end back to that. do you have any pictures which clearly show the o.e breather system at all or what you did with yours?

finally i need to clarify the water/piping between the heads, and what i am missing on my ls1. i dont appear to have the small steel pipe between the heads at the front of the engine in the valley area, anyone have a part no for it please? also is there another one at the rear etc?

many thanks if you can help
chris

 

well, i bought the car with the conversion already done, but here's what i was told. pass side fit right in with only cutting/replacing the head flange with one for an ls1. the drivers side he had to replace 3 primary tubes along with the head flange. remember, this is with a PA Perf. sbc/fox swap k-member which is not the best choice due to the motor sitting so far forward. with a 4.6 fox swap k-member, the motor will sit nice and tight by the firewall. do a search for other posts about this and you'll find what will work best for you, it's been covered plenty of times.

 

the only vac ports i'm running is the one for the map sensor which plugs into a threaded barb that screws into the side of the manifold just under the carb base, and my power brakes which is plugged into the large port on the back side of all carbs. the rest are plugged.

for breathers, the factory just had an egr system and tubing that comes off the top of the pass side valve cover that went to the t-body on mine. as far as i know, that's all there was. i've got a small breather on the back of the drivers side v/cover and will be adding a larger one in place of the oil fill cap on the pass side. as far as what's needed for a dry sump system, i couldn't tell you because i'm not familiar with them. however, if this is a drag race setup, there are a number of guys running either an evac setup through the exhaust or better yet, a vaccuum pump, but don't know what they used for brackets or if anyone makes a direct bolt on yet.

for the crossover tubing for the coolant, the rears are capped off and the front is from an ls6 which does not go to the rear. i don't have a part # handy for them, but got lucky mine already had it done.

hope that helped some or at least made sence.

 

Hi
that does make sense, i will need to block off my rear water collant crossover at least and then source an LS6 front pipe. i think i can sort the pcv ok as the dry sump tank has an inlet at the top for returning such lines into.

can i ask another question, was yours the edelbrock #7118 manifold and msd kit? reason i ask is that edelbrock have advised me their 7118 kit doesnt have an inbuilt rev limiter, and i wanted to fit one (aftermarket) to protect the engine. i had wrongly assumed the msd unit supplied with the manifold would have a rev limit feature but they say its on other msd units only.

i may need to start a new thread on aftermarket rev limiters as to how they should be hooked up to the msd /coil pack system if not!
thanks

 

Why not just leave the water coolant lines there? They shouldn't be in the way and will be mostly covered up by the intake anyway ...

 

my engine came missing everything on top other than the valley cover. i think i can still run the std ls1 water pipe arrangement with this edelbrock 7118 manifold or alternatively block off the rears and run the front pipe.

if anyone with the edelbrock carb manifold can confirm it would help?
cheers

 

Did you buy the intake and msd box yet, I bought mine seperate and it was acually cheaper.

 

You can do either with the coolant passages.

I actually got my Edelbrock controller for $175. That's why I didn't buy the MSD... it'll get me on the road and I can always upgrade later for when I spray it. I know the Edelbrock kit is around 700 bucks ... so, I would have definitely bought the MSD controller separate from the intake - but if you're not going to put a power adder on it the Edelbrock controller will probably work fine for your needs.

 

same here. i got my controller for $200 shipped, then bought the intake seperately.

and yes, there is plenty of room to run any coolant line configuration out there, but mine already had the straight crossover in the front and the rears blocked off.

 

i got the kit together in the uk at a decent price to be honest but its the basic one without rev limiter and non-mappable, but i think it will cover my application- mild cam, headers and filter only. edelbrock have replied to email and said blank off the rear and run the ls6 front pipe for ease, so i should be sorted now thanks on that score.

:-)

 

Thanks for the help!

 

update........

i got the car running as stated, but it's running Super rich. i had 1 torn plug wire i knew of, and just recieved a set of Taylor wires. as for the plugs, pulled them and they're BLACK with carbon and the threads are wet with gas, so they're shot.

after talking with a friend of mine, we figured that because i have a Mighty Demon carb which is meant to be used with a cam that pulls low vaccuum (& 240* + duration @ .050") and a stock cam which pulls Lots of it, that's likely the major culprit for it being soooo rich since vaccuum is what pulls the fuel out of the bowls.

i spoke with another friend of mine to see if he'd be up for doing a head/cam swap with me since apparently i wont be able to wait very long to get it done if i want to drive the car and not have to replace the plugs every few days!

plan at the moment is.....

1) VFN 3" cowl hood which should be done by the first or second week of April so i can drive it legally.

2) drive up to Wisconsin to a friends house to mini-tub the car, put in the new built rear, suspension, and of course, the big M/T's! he's gonna do a couple other little things like install my linelock, Grant wheel & quick release and ?. said it'll take a week if he doesn't have to narrow the rear. (God i hope not!)

3) drive over to other friends house in Wisconsin and do the head/cam pkg.

4) install new clutch & shifter and the car should be at least 95% done minus details.

 

check what power valve is in the carb and check jet size ,that carb is easy to dial in just let us know what you have and we can go from there

 

thanks, but i'm not gonna monkey with it until the new cam is in it for now. after that i'll start getting in dialed in and let you know.

 

some of the tedious b.s. small stuff i've been doing to occupy my time til the hood is done....

new fans, breather, overflow, rad. shroud, some chrome, swapping to smaller brakes to fit my Weld skinnies (13" '03 Cobra's for 10 3/4" '99 GT's), and filling those darn little holes....