My LS1 S14 Build Thread
Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
Wow Ted, those corner weights come out about perfect with him in the car! How much work, and shuffling did that take?
I think he's maybe taken some weight out of the car since then though. I need to to weigh my car to see what it comes in at for I'm curoius now.
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from my post.
if my math is right the front/rear % is, front=53.42%, rear=46.58%. front is 1560, rear is 1360, total is 2920
i have since took out some things and i think the total weight now is 2860. cant remember for sure.
if my math is right the front/rear % is, front=53.42%, rear=46.58%. front is 1560, rear is 1360, total is 2920
i have since took out some things and i think the total weight now is 2860. cant remember for sure.
Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
Kamin, what made yo finally decide to go with the LS swap? I mean you already had an RB! (I know why I would!...) just wanted to hear your reasoning.
Teching In
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Ah... I'm very interested to see you doing this swap Kamin. When I saw that you were selling your RB on nico I figured you were going LS1.
I just sold my RB powered S14, but I have a rolling chassis S14 that I'm starting to completely build inside and out... with an LS1 under the hood.
I can't wait to see how your swap turns out!
I just sold my RB powered S14, but I have a rolling chassis S14 that I'm starting to completely build inside and out... with an LS1 under the hood.
I can't wait to see how your swap turns out!
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Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
Kamin, what made yo finally decide to go with the LS swap? I mean you already had an RB! (I know why I would!...) just wanted to hear your reasoning.
the main reason is more power with better reliability. the RB held me over while it was damn near stock for over 2 years, and i really didnt have any problems with it other than some electrical issues, but next year im gonna be trying to go a little bigger with my drifting career so i needed something to be competitive. now the RB would have been, with a turbo upgrade, standalone and injectors. but after all that i then have to deal with a HEAVILY modified engine that i cant get parts for if something breaks. I dont want to be in colorado, or texas and need to replace a cam angle sensor. a $150 part would turn into a waste of thousands because i couldnt drive and the event is a wash for me. that pisses me and my sponsors off haha.
theres a ton of other little reasons but the whole reliability and having that kind of power out of a NA engine is the reason. no more boost leaks, no more popped IC piping, no more overheating problems because of the front mount blocking all the clean air, etc.
that and i love pissing people off. altho the reaction has been way more positive than i would have expected from the nissan crowd haha. I personally dont care what engine is in a car as long as it gets USED. show cars suck
oh and small update: drivers side exhaust manifold is almost done. wait till you see what we figured out hehe
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when its done!
im using those hooker block huggers. we cut the tube on the inside at the flange, angled it out about 2-3 inches so it sits against the frame instead of the block. now theres a ton more room to run it on the outside of the shaft rather than the inside.
they should be done tomorrow or thursday.
im using those hooker block huggers. we cut the tube on the inside at the flange, angled it out about 2-3 inches so it sits against the frame instead of the block. now theres a ton more room to run it on the outside of the shaft rather than the inside.
they should be done tomorrow or thursday.
Originally Posted by Kamin
theres a ton of other little reasons but the whole reliability and having that kind of power out of a NA engine is the reason. no more boost leaks, no more popped IC piping, no more overheating problems because of the front mount blocking all the clean air, etc.
On The Tree
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Originally Posted by Kamin
when its done!
im using those hooker block huggers. we cut the tube on the inside at the flange, angled it out about 2-3 inches so it sits against the frame instead of the block. now theres a ton more room to run it on the outside of the shaft rather than the inside.
they should be done tomorrow or thursday.
im using those hooker block huggers. we cut the tube on the inside at the flange, angled it out about 2-3 inches so it sits against the frame instead of the block. now theres a ton more room to run it on the outside of the shaft rather than the inside.
they should be done tomorrow or thursday.
Mine's on the outside too. I'm using the c5 manifolds. Free is nice. i need to order DIY header kit Longtube style.
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heres my update finally. been busy haha
headers and both exhausts completely built. just finishing up the H pipe at the moment. everything was going AWESOME till yesterday. i attached the clutch line and theres a leak somewhere near the slave. so pulling the motor tonight and looking for what it could be. i hope its something stupid.
cam and the rest of the front half of the engine is reassembled, engine is 99% assembled. only thing thats left is the pushrods and crap on the valve covers.
drivers side, theres actually way more clearance between the exhaust and the outlets for the rack than the first pic shows. its the strange angle i took the picture. its probably about an inch-1.5 inches away.
pass side
not much clearance around everything but since the engine is solid mounted, i didnt really concern myself with that. ill be heat wrapping the exhaust near the rack and wrapping the lines too. might get a PS cooler also.
heres also one of my side exits
figured out a way to do dual sides hehe. running 2 dynomax race mufflers so it should sound pretty awesome.
headers and both exhausts completely built. just finishing up the H pipe at the moment. everything was going AWESOME till yesterday. i attached the clutch line and theres a leak somewhere near the slave. so pulling the motor tonight and looking for what it could be. i hope its something stupid.
cam and the rest of the front half of the engine is reassembled, engine is 99% assembled. only thing thats left is the pushrods and crap on the valve covers.
drivers side, theres actually way more clearance between the exhaust and the outlets for the rack than the first pic shows. its the strange angle i took the picture. its probably about an inch-1.5 inches away.
pass side
not much clearance around everything but since the engine is solid mounted, i didnt really concern myself with that. ill be heat wrapping the exhaust near the rack and wrapping the lines too. might get a PS cooler also.
heres also one of my side exits
figured out a way to do dual sides hehe. running 2 dynomax race mufflers so it should sound pretty awesome.
Last edited by Kamin; Aug 1, 2007 at 02:26 PM.
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haha since its a race-only vehicle with a solid mounted engine i just welded on a small tab, drilled a couple holes and bolted them to my floor lol. im gonna be heat wrapping the mufflers and putting a guard under my seat to prevent hot-*** syndrome.
putting dual side exhausts on a car that was never designed for 1 has required some..um..ghetto engineering in that respect haha. "clearanceing" the floor with a jack and a block of wood, and a hammer
here you can see where they are mounted. on the insides of the frame rails just past the transmission mount.
thanks to my ******* boss for taking all these pictures of me working haha
p.s. check out my awesome safe vehicle lifting practices
putting dual side exhausts on a car that was never designed for 1 has required some..um..ghetto engineering in that respect haha. "clearanceing" the floor with a jack and a block of wood, and a hammer
here you can see where they are mounted. on the insides of the frame rails just past the transmission mount.
thanks to my ******* boss for taking all these pictures of me working haha
p.s. check out my awesome safe vehicle lifting practices
Last edited by Kamin; Aug 1, 2007 at 02:23 PM.
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hooker LS1 block huggers.
we probably have about 10-15 hours into them for modification. cut out each individual runner on the inside at the flange, cleaned everything up, positioned everything, welded everything, then made it all smooth and pretty on the inside with my 13$ harbor freight die grinder hahaha
im very happy with the way they turned out. they almost look like we never touched them.
we probably have about 10-15 hours into them for modification. cut out each individual runner on the inside at the flange, cleaned everything up, positioned everything, welded everything, then made it all smooth and pretty on the inside with my 13$ harbor freight die grinder hahaha
im very happy with the way they turned out. they almost look like we never touched them.