trans angle ?
trans angle ? do you have to have your car completly level to measure your trans and rear end angles ? i mean your comparing them to each other, so as long as they zero out, does it matter if the car is not 100%%% level?
you are right. However I would strive to get the car as level as possible. Besides having he angle cancel out, you want an angle between 0-5 to start with at the trans tail.Having the car level will ensure more accurate results.
if there is one thing I dont quite understand when it comes to engine swaps is the drivetrain angles. Last swap I did turned out ok. No vibrations. I posted a while ago about something similar.
if there is one thing I dont quite understand when it comes to engine swaps is the drivetrain angles. Last swap I did turned out ok. No vibrations. I posted a while ago about something similar.
i really have no way of leveling the car unless i put a trans jack under the rear end and that makes me nervouse on a lift. my lift (like most) is older and they always sag a little on the long rear arms, thats why it wont sit 100% level.
see how she sits
see how she sits
Last edited by leonpiper69; Jul 8, 2007 at 10:43 AM.
Everything is relative. If you are using a rotational angle guage then the reading you get is relative to the earth (or horizontal). This reading can be made on the trans and the differential yokes and will give you a good indication of whether they are at the same angle. Assuming the engine/trans are already mounted in the position you want, then having the car perfectly horizontal is not necessary...however, if you are looking to set the correct angle on the engine/trans then you need to do this with respect to the chassis and making the chassis level with the ground simplifies matters greatly.
Where i work we have these digital levels called SmartTool s, i think they have them at sears for 20 bucks or so, you would put it against the frame rail, and zero it, then put it to your trans and set your angle, no need to worry the position the car's in.
good idea. i didnt even think of referenceing off the frame. since i already have a magnetic degree thingy i could just minus the diff too. i'll give that a shot today, thanks.
I originall setup Trans angle but only tacked the tab on. I jacked my car so that it would be about the correct ride height on both the front and rear. But you never know how it is going to sit until it is just about finished.
I Measure the rear pinon and the frame angles. Then adjusted the trans/engine to be the correct angle and tacked the tab on and left it that way until I had the car back on the ground with almost everything bolted on..
I then check the Trans/engine angle and make any correction as needed. (note if the car is lowered you might not be able to craw under to measure the angle, I found that you can measure off of the front of the crank as it will be or should be the same as the output shaft of the trans).
You can also weld the tab with the trans a bit lower and use spacer to bring it up to the correct height/angle.
I Measure the rear pinon and the frame angles. Then adjusted the trans/engine to be the correct angle and tacked the tab on and left it that way until I had the car back on the ground with almost everything bolted on..
I then check the Trans/engine angle and make any correction as needed. (note if the car is lowered you might not be able to craw under to measure the angle, I found that you can measure off of the front of the crank as it will be or should be the same as the output shaft of the trans).
You can also weld the tab with the trans a bit lower and use spacer to bring it up to the correct height/angle.
