Howdy – I have been lurking somewhat intermittently because of several trips for Uncle Sam this summer, the last of which ending about 2 weeks ago. Turns out that the Air Force may want to move me about a year from now, so I had to kick up the project a notch. Goal is to get it into paint this time next year, so the chassis needs to be done before that time.
A little recap.
The 72 was my first car, got it back in 1987 when I was only 15. Typical story here, first dates, movies, drunken parties, college, and the kicker – the 10 years it spent parked under my fathers deck after I joined the service. Fast forward to 2006. I get reassigned close to home, so I take the opportunity to get it running again, drive it around a bit, get the body work done (looks great in primer) and start planning for the chassis refurbishment. Car will be a “pro-touring” type weekend driver and local show car when completed.
Well, the car is stripped from the firewall forward, minus the engine. This weekend was busy, but it is nearly ready to have the LS2 and T56 dropped in next week at a local shop. From what I have seen so far, the frame looks like it is completely rust free. The mounts for the radiator support are completely factory perfect, as I suspected it would be on a lifetime California car. If the rest of the frame is that nice, it should be in for galvanizing and powder coat mid-October. I will be posting periodically to let everyone know how it is going.
Wish me luck – I feel like I am in over my head.
Hey - anyone switch their automatic A-Body over to 6-speed with the hydraulic slave cylinder? What can you recommend - that is my next project as soon as the pedal assy comes in.

Tom Ringlein
Clovis, California

 

Hey.. good luck with your project, as far as the switch to a T56. It is done a lot, just need to have that Clutch master plate. You can either make one or buy one from ATS or S&P (or a few other places). You should be able to get a used pedal setup from the local junk yards, Ebay or a new repro set from any of the Chevelle catalogs.

I was able to just cut the trans tap off of the x-member and flip and weld it back on. Had to get the Drive shaft shorten and that is about it as far as switching over to a T56 with your LSx swap.

What Adapter Plates are you going to be using. Also are you going to be using A/C ? You should make sure you plan for that.

 

Yea – I was going to get the adapter plate from ATS – so I should be alright there. I don’t have any good junkyards around here that don’t charge top dollar for factory stuff, so I am going to order a repro set from a repro catalog of some sort. That should save me the hassle of stripping and painting before assembly.
I am using the BRP mounts – seemed the best for using the factory 1999 WS6 accessory drive with the least amount of surprises. The firewall clearance is a concern of mine, but we will cross that bridge when we get there (I may do some minor clearancing). Yup – using A/C also and I am already in communication with several A/C shops to get an R134A system that will work with the Chevelle and LS1 setup. Only catch is that the Sanden 508 pump has to be shorter or same length as the factory pump – still waiting on dims before I finish the frame mods for the LS conversion. Vintage Air makes the bracket to mount a Sanden pump on the LS in the factory position – so I am waiting for them to verify that the pump will not move with the new bracket. When I get that word – it will be full speed ahead.
Thanks for the reply-
Later-
T.J. Ringlein

 

I am using BRP on my 71' Chevelle, I centered the engine between the firewall/Heater box and the steering box / pump pully. If you do that, you can use the stock LSx A/C Pump. I am doing this and just remade some hose to connect to the stock Chevelle A/C system. It works. so with R134A and R12A.. you should be able to just about using any A/C system that you can get to fit.
ATS and S&P adatper, A/C Compressor has to be relocated cause the adapters have been know to hit the stock compressor.

 

Are you saying that when I lower the engine in with the BRP mounts, I have some leeway as to exactly where I put the engine? If I center it between the firewall and the steering box, do I have a bit more clearance between the cylinder head and the firewall (more then 1/2" or so)? I will tinker a bit with it, but I will also put my Jeep Cherokee steering box in first to make sure it clears, although it appears to be an identical casting. If I can move it around a bit, that would be great.
I will let you know how it works - should have the car stripped and start work on the LSx implant next week. I got the old engine/tranny nearly ready to remove - just a few more hours and it will be ready to go.

TJR

 

Yes, with BRP plates, it is very tight with those to area of contact (steering/pulley and the head/firewall and A/C box).

With the BRP style mounts, it is tight. You have to relocate the frame mounts, most drop the engine in with the plates, mounts and frame mount all attached. Then mark the frame in the new location. Some Drill new holes, other just weld the frame mounts in place.

I also narrowed my frame mounts by 1/2" and used spacer to be able to jack the engine around to center where it needed to be.

Stealth71 is using the Jeep box, check out his Thread on his project. Yes. that steering box is highly used in many cars, GM, Ford and others also. Same casting, but depending on the year, it is ether SAE or Meteric. Many of the Jeep ones were the quick ration 12:1 or 14:1.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Sounds like a nice project. There are a few of us around w/ similar projects in different states of completeness. If you have any more questions just speak up.