Don,

PM'ed ya.

 

Not what you want to hear, but sell the entire R&P kit and sway bar reloaction and get something better. The moment I unpacked one we purchased and took a look at the install guide, quality of the parts, and overall execution, I sold it at a loss the next day.
Who ever does their engineering and fabrication needs to back to school.

Tyler

 

A full clip (cradle) assembly would be the best since they've already gotten the suspension geometry correct. Besides bad workmanship (already discussed), you HAVE to make sure there is no bump steer with the new steering installation.

It took me close to forever to get the bump steer out of my rack & pinion installation into my Mercedes (nope, nobody makes a kit for this) but it had to be done. My original mounting position of the rack provided 1.125" of toe out bump steer with 2" of suspension movement. Compress the front suspension 2" and the tire turned out 1 1/8" - massively bad. Hit a bump with the left front wheel and the car would have turned left all by itself. It's under 1/16" now for the full suspension movement.

Rack & Pinion will give you much better steering feel in the car but it has to be installed correctly. Just be careful out there.

 

Oh trust me, you couldn't make me laugh any harder then the day I unpacked that "kit"
Read the last line of my #9 post and I think that sums up what we both have said about that "kit"

My rack kit went right back within 1 week and was refunded (in about 2 months time) less 20% restocking fee. He has told me that he will refund the full price but I havent seen that yet, and it's been about 6 months now. I think that he makes most of his income from restocking fee's!! The fabricator at SpeedTech did the same thing as we did, bought one opened it, , then sent it back.
BTW, I am currently looking into the AM C6 subframe.

ChrisP

 

I have been planing on doing the steering and front brakes at the same time ( I still have front drums) from what I have read s-10 spindles and disc brakes should fit right in place of the stock components but will move the steering in front of the engine making the oil pan clearance issue go away. then mounting a mustang II R&P will require a notch in the cross member. is this going to be harder than I think, or is this even possible?

 

Mustang II R&P is the wrong length, you'll have bumpsteer problems--how bad do you want to screw up your steering to avoid using an aftermarket oil pan?

I've never heard of anyone running S10 spindles/brakes on this subframe. The hot swap right now for brakes is adapter plates to use LS1 Fbody, C4, or C5 calipers on slightly modified stock spindles, and turn down the drum brake hub to so that the rotor will fit over it.
http://www.pozziracing.com/12_corvet...es_on_fgen.htm

 

The S10 spindles deal is the way Lou did it on the "Muscle Car" TV show. He used a competition engineering Manual rack though. That's what started my whole idea of trying to put the rack in front of the motor, but I LOVE my hotchkis sway bar, and my question was "where does my sway bar go" and I didn't like the ideal of BRP's sway bar under the rear of the crossmember. Is anyone using the ATS 670 box? Maybe instead of spending my money on a rack conversion, maybe I'll do the ATS box and AFX spindles with some Global West tubular arms. anyone go this way?

 

Thanks for your answer Don.
Now I have another question, hope you have the answer: Is it true that most of those rack and pinion aftermarket kits for early Camaros, are just modified late Camaro rack pinion?? Do you know if this is true? Or from what GM car do they take the rack and pinion to build those kits?

I'm planning on puting a rack and pinion in my car, but I want it in front of the engine support, and I'm gonna make it my self, so I would like to know what would be the most convenient, the one that would need the less mods.

Thanks.

 

I can't speak for other kits, but the BRP kit is just a LS1 rack with the tie rod ends chopped off. Then a rod coupling nut is welded to the end to accept the QA1 rod end bearing. No magic, no fancy re-valving.
If you are thinking of doing this yourself, I just so happen to have a LS1 rack which I will not be using.(hint,hint)

 

Yeah, I guess I have a rack that I'm not using now too. We should open a used LS1 rack store and call it "BRP leftovers".
chrisp3, what did you end up using for steering? I've given up on the rack idea but I have a 2 1/2 turn gm box in there now that's only two years old, and don't know if it would be worth $600 to go the ats 670 way. I'm wondering how much improvement will it give me. Also, thinking about the guldstrand mod since I bought a new (used) subframe.

 

For steering I am using a 1996 Camaro tilt column. The column almost comes plug and play as the blinker/high beam wires have remained the same, (at least since),1969! The steering shaft is about 2 or 3 inches longer but can be cut if needed. Then a 3/4 DD shaft can be slid with a perfect fit inside the 96 shaft to accommodate a rag or u-joint.
I am going with this set up http://www.artmorrison.com/gallery/v...camaro-FrontClip so I will not worry about Gulstrand mods, Akerman effect, bump steer issues, the high cost of gaining some caster, or losing any more time or hair.

 

Well, we are not profesional racers or anything, but we are pretty happy with the cheap way we went. We went with the SpeedTech uppers and tie rod sleeves (EXCELLENT quality, VERY HAPPY), a rebuilt fast ratio box, Ididit column, all new poly bushings and KYB shocks. The car handles very nicely, and turns on a dime. No bump-steer issues on our favorite test road, and it used to have bad bump steer. The alignment specs from Speed-Tech are perfect for the car, and our alignment guy was very happy with the specs and ease of adjustment. He was also very impressed with the quality of the A-arms. We went with an inline tube disc conversion kit, and did have a small snag getting them to work with 14" wheels, but it is a very nice setup for the money. It is based on 72 Chevelle parts, and includes new spindles.

Column:
$339.00____IDT-1120680010____Summit____Ididit Column
$96.00_____IDT-2207310020____Summit____Ididit Steering wheel adapter
$95.00_____IDT-3000054340____Summit____Rag Joint
$145.00____GRT-1178__________Summit____Steering Wheel
$17.00_____GRT-5649__________Summit____Adapters/horn button

Shocks:
$152.00____KYB-KG4515 and KG5524____Summit____Shocks

Steering Gear:
$140.00____Steering Gear__Kragen/Checker
______________Cardonne 276509 2 1/2 to 3 turn, Lares 972 same.

Brake Kit:
$675.00____Front Disk kit____Inline Tube____Fits MOST 14" wheels,
_____________________ include spindles and 9" smooth booster

$285.00____Hardline conversion for disk, clamps____Inline Tube
_____________________ All Lines, hoses and clamps needed.

Uppers and sleeves:
$399.00___Tubular upper control arms__Speed Tech___Geometry corrective
$30.00____Tubular Tie rod sleeves_____Speed Tech___STRONG

Bushings:
$239.00____Poly Front end kit____P-S-T____Standard kit
$90.00_____Poly Body Mounts____P-S-T____In Black

Inner Tie Rods:
$54.00____Inner tie rod ends____NAPA____Needed them.

 

Thanks chrisp3!

And how much do you want for the LS1 rack? Be nice

 

PM'd you, LSfan70s.
And I'm always nice