we have two grades over here , they come out to be 88 and 92 octane . price is about $.60 for premium and $.40 for crappy.

it goes without saying i use the good stuff


back to car stuff , i finished up the intercooler piping now. i have to maove the radiator a bit back for better air flow, and i also have to finish up two small braces on top of the intercooler to hold it in place.

i'll also bolt up the exhuast to see how close are fuel lines and if they need insulation.

i hopefully will get a couple of cheap fans today to put on the radiator ( since the stockers don't fit) , i'll see how well i can get them to fit before i go and get some decent ones. after that, its off to the electrical work!

 

i got a bit done today, i bolted up the exhaust and insulated the fuel line where it need to be insulated. i also finished the top intercooler brackets and then proceeded to hack the face of the car up
it took quite a bit to finish it , here is how it looks :







i also got my new license plate and regestration in today
at least now you guys can read them


i did findout about a "potential" problem. i say potential cause i'm not sure if what happened would cause an issue or not: as i was filling the tranny up with oil , i noticed that tranny fluid i had was two kinds, dexron 3 and type 3 (H) . i remeber some time ago some one said nexer mix the two , or if you use one kind, you can't use the other or else the cluth material will flake off???

is that true? and should i be worried?.should i just drain it and put dexron 3 stuff inthere and not worry about it anymore?

 

Well...you should not mix the two plain and simple. The best that guys here in the states do is used Jon Deere hydraulic fluid. Runs cooler, shifts quicker, and curises at a lower RPM (so I have heard). I have not put it in mine as of yet because the trans is about ghot.

No wonder people there hate Americans. $3bux higher in Gov taxes just on gasoline.

Chris

 

guess i'll drain it and fill it up with one kind. the strange thing is that i could not find dexron III ATF anywhere here ! that stuff was available everywere , even at bakeries

all i'm finding now is this type III (H) stuff from ac delco. did they change it's name from dexron to type III H?? has it been deemed hazerdous by the EPA

are you sure about the john deere stuff?? never heard that when i was there

(on a side note , most people here don't hate americans like the media tells you , most people hate what your government is doing - just like many americans )

 

I have heard about the John Deere hydraulic fluid as well. Not sure if it is save for every transmission? I think a friend of mine who was doing it just had a TH350.

Never heard of type III (H). Dexron III is the most common with most new(ish) vehicles. I think a few years ago they came out with Dexron V which is suppose to be the latest and greatest. I'm pretty sure the cheapest stuff i've seen is just type "F" which is what most people with a standard, non overdrive tranny use.

 

The cars I know that use it are Fords. There are two guys with AOD's and one guy is running it in an AOD and his E40D. There was also a guy out of NYC that was running it in his daily driver Honda and says he has lower rpms at cruising speed. He is a tuner as well. Kind of a jerk, but does know his stuff.

Chris

 

funny you mention the ford stuff, cause i thought the fords used the "f" stuff, when i checked here - at a dealership too- they were using type M ??!!

any how , i drained the tranny and will be pouring that type h in there cause i can no longer find dexron III here ,,,, ***** !!
i also mounted two 14" fans today, one a puller and the other a pusher., also did the water injection pump - all without wiring offcourse

i did pressureize the fuel system and i'm proud to announce i have no leaks! ( man i'm getting good at this )

 

well i finally started her again , this time i wired up the fuel pumps temporarily and finished wiring the fans.

found out a couple of things, first the cheap fans i bought are cheap for a reason; you can bearly notice them working i was planning on using them temporarily untill i get a decent set. guess now i have to get the decent set sooner than i thought
second thing is that i'm having starter issues again. this time after i started it and let the car idle for a few minutes , i shut it off ( mainly to re connect the coolant bypass tube that i forgot to connect as well as to get a chance to breath in the garage )
when i tried to restart it it had a hard time turning over, then i noticed smoke coming from the grounding strap from the head to the body.

what is going on ?? its the same setup i had before i pulled the engine and it worked fine before. can it be that i should run a dedicated grounding strap from the battery to the head??
why is the ground getting hot?

 

You should have either the block or the head grounded to the battery. I know some of us rx7 guys have to ground in multiple locations.

 

just bought the cable, i'll try to do it tonight.

i should start on the electrical side of things tonight ( read : rewire all the junk i did before )

 

good luck dude

 

don't worry , i won't need it to beat your slow *** car

thanks!

 

you wish dude

 

by the way , our little "dialouge" we had at the resturant tonight just got me motivated again to get this heap running again

 

is fuel 60c a gallon or liter?

 

a gallon , comes out to about 16 cents a liter for premium.
i also have to mention that its is government susidized , which means that price is fixed and only changes when the gov. says so .

 

got the car off the lift and squared away in the middle of the garage so i can remove most of the interior. i managed to remove most of the nitrous wiring, timing tuner, bottle heater, and progressive controller wires.
i also routed the grounding cable i got from the head to the trunk area. turned out to be a tad to short, so i'll be grounding it on the driver side trunk area and running a cable from the battery - on the pass. side- to that spot .

i also snagged a spal 16" fan from a buddy of mine , should be installing that soon too.
another thing i noticed is that i'm running out of places to put guages in
i'm thinking of getting a guage pod that houses the tach , and two small guages ( boost and fuel pressure). orrrrrr, i could just do what i did on the camaro and just build me a whole new cluster with my own guages. right now the only guages working on there are fuel level and volts.

i'll see how energetic i feel tomorow

 

i finished the grounding deal , and now have the battery grounded to the body and directly to the block.

the car still didn't like to start after it warmed up, so i went ahead and boght a new starter ( thinking the one on there was already toast since the header precticaly touches it - only header wrap and a bit of heat shield seperate the two )

i also extended the maf harness- i'm thinking of running the thing on a 1 bar maf setup (using the camaro's old tune) for now and going SD in the near future when the thing is up and running propperly. connected the BOV and tans vaccume lines ( need to install them correctly/ cleanly)


i also decided to ditch the stock cluster and do my own. maybe a small rpm and speed ( not sure on the speed one ) and relocate the essentials in to the cluster. will do that as soon as the thing is running i guess.

i started the thing up today and it ran fine . i turned it off and the thing would not turn over! so , the starter was a waste

could it be that the battery is bad? the alternator is charging ( i see it on the volt guage).


so i guess next up on the list would be the damn electrical wiring

i'm seriously considering removing everything ( and i mean everything ) and starting from scratch, i'm just too lazy to do such a thing
i do need to do the following now:

- redo the fan wiring and install the spal fan - the harness i have now has some small guage fan wiring for power and coupled with the crappy fans i have now you get this :


- wire the two fuel pumps to two seperate relays on the relay board.
- wire the water injection pump
- wire the fuel pressure sending unit box thingy.
- fix a ground issue i have right now with the reverse lights and rurn signal - they now stay on all the time !
- clean up the existing underdash mess that is supposed to be "electrical wiring "


after that i should down load the camaro's old blower file after i tweak it a bit and then fine tune it on the dyno.

 

your batterys in the trunk? what guage cable you running? I know you said it was starting fine before, but is there a chance the positive cable is too thin and has too much resistance? IDK just throwing out ideas.

 

i think the positive cable is thick enough ( its what comes with the battery relocation box that summit sells . but now that you mention it, the cable goes from the battery to the old ford starter solenoid ( which i'm using right now as a junction block) and then the stock ford cable from the noid to the starter, and that cable doesn't look that sexy at all
guess i'll add another thing to the "must do " list

well , that and a new battery cause this one is an AC delco one that has been on there for 3 years now.