Hi everyone, I'm swapping an LS1/T56 into my '73 Camaro. I have the BRP conversion kit but I'm not going to use it. I was looking at the Edelbrock motor mount plates and headers. I really like the headers but was wondering how my stock fbody accessories would work with the mounts. Has anyone used these yet in their 2nd gen.? Thanks

 

I forgot to mention that I'm trying to use the A/C in the stock location. Thanks!

 

I've got the Edelbrock motor mounts and If I want to use the AC in the stock location as the F-body LS1 I will have to notch the frame.

 

I also purchased the Brp kit for a second generation with a 4l60e and decided not to use it.I than purchased a set of edelbock plates and a set of edelbrock headers to try out.My 2000 ls1 came with thr f body setup.The setup worked great and everything fit good ecept you had to notch the frame if you wanted to use the stock a/c compressor.I relocated mine up high on the passenger side ,and used a sanden compressor that will work with my 2nd gereration system better.The edelbrock mounts are designed to be used with the early stye motor mounts and perches.If that works for you then there great.I tried using later model clam shell mounts and they hit the alternator with the edelbrock plates. I then got a set of trans dapt plates and they cleared the alternator using the clam shell mounts.With either the edelbrock plates or the trans dapt plates , the headers fit great. You got at least a couple of inches to move the motor foward or backwards depending on where you want it.I would think this would give you room to locate your shifter hole, but I don,t know for sure. I was also able to use my f body pan ,no problem. You will have to weld or drill your perches,I don,t care who,s setup you use.I adapted my stock crossmember with a little work.But if was worth it because the edelbrock headers look great and are less expense then most of the others. good luck

 

why didnt u guys use the BRP kit?

 

I know that brp posts in ls1 tech quite often.I have talked to Phil on the phone and he seems like a nice guy.I,am sure that lot's of his products work great.When I purchased my kit, I over looked the high cost in favor of all the R&D that Phil says his engineers put into there kits.I am not an engineer and respect those that are.When I opened the box the kit looked great and I was very happy.When I started installing my ls1 motor right away I ran into problems.Yes the f body a?c compressor cleared the frame without notching it but you had to notch the frame to hook up the a/c lines ,good R&D work?The good looking but light duty crossmember besides needing new holes drilled didn't sit on a level part of the frame and had to be shimed. I spoke to Phil about what I had to do to get my cable driven speedo to work and he said I needed a different tail housing and or an adaptor(which he had a supplier). The problem with the adaptor/tailhousing is that it relocated where the transmission mounted ,changing the pinion angle.There goe's all that good engineering that I paid for. To find out I had the second design kit. Five days after I received my kit they started selling a 3rd design kit.Maybe if I gave them another week for R&D and ordered a 3rd design kit the engineers would have got it right.I guess my beef is alot of people are counting on other people on this forum for good information. So if your going to use this information, do your R&D on these so called engineers. Good luck

 

I may have the 2nd gen kit, will there be problems using a TH350?

 

I'm not using the BRP kit because one of the brackets on the motor mounts is welded on extremely crooked. So crooked that when the frame mount is bolted up it sits cooked on the frame rail. I could cut it off and weld it back on straight but then that would ruin the zinc protective finish on them. I did not buy this kit from BRP, I bought it from another individual who decided not to use it. I've tried calling BRP a few times to see if I could get it switched out but get no answer. I don't expect them to exchange it since I did not spend my money with them but I thought I would try anyway.

I also don't like the idea of using the LH8 oil pan. My car is going to be pretty low so I do not want the oil pan hanging below my crossmember.

Thanks mrtywalsh for the great info. I'm glad to hear there is plenty of room with edelbrock headers. I have a set of the Moroso solid frame mounts which I think are pretty close to dimensions of the early style frame mounts so I think I will go with the edelbrock mounts. It's great to hear that the Trans Dapt plates work with the Edelbrock headers also. Can't never have too many options!

I Like the fbody accessories because they mount low and show off more of the motor. I figured I was going to have to notch the frame rail for the A/C but I'm glad to hear the alternator will clear

 

Dear Phill,

Can you keep me (us) posted on the proces with the cadi pan. As you know I have your LH8 pan and will be test fitting it soon. But I expect it to be too low as well... and might take you up for a exchange for the cady pan.

so please let us know!!! with pics please...

thanks

Peter

 

Which Cadi pan are you referring to. I recently purchased an LH8 pan from Phil for an LS into first gen f-body swap and a little concerned how how low the pan will hang as I'm thinking Air Ride. Also Phil, if the Cadi pan will work in fist gen f body any chances of returning pan kit. It still in the box you sent. Thanks for any info?

 

Hee there,

I think Phil is refering to this pan:

Cadillac CTSv :
Capacity: 5.5 qts
Oil pan: 12577901
Oil pump pickup: 12577906
Windage tray: 12558268 (same as Truck "C/K)
Dipstick tube: ?
Dipstick: ?
O-ring for Oil pump pickup:?
Oil pan baffle: 12577904



I forsee the same problem as you with the LH8 pan being to low, I will be test fitting the engine next week or so. I also have a 2006 corvette pan, which could be made to fit aswell. But I like the idea of having a stock pan. So I think of using the caddy pan or the Holden pan...

Phil, please keep us posted.

Peter

 

The engine brackets mounts were intentionally welded on at an angle to allow for clearance to turn the bolt on the mount. We have a lifetime warranty on these mounts and all you have to do is send it back to BRP and I’ll send an mount welded without the angle at no cost. We have been overwhelmed with calls lately and are trying to keep up I’m sorry if we did not get back to you yet. Email is the fastest way we can respond in.

info@brphotrods.com

There are a lot of options as far as the oil pan goes, the BRP kit is designed to be able to slide on the K-member to best fit the application. I have some customers who still run the F-Body pan and simply notch the frame. We are always testing the various GM pans to offer an install kit with the least modifications. The LH8 goes in with no trans mods and the least mods needed for the A/C but at the cost of a lower hang. The LH8 will work in 90% of the installs and is still a great alternative. The Cadillac pan seams to be the most ideal for 2nd gen in a GM oil pan on lowered cars. The aftermarket pans like the AutoKraft offer clearance like a LH8 with better ground clearance but require the remote oil filter which also work great on the BRP kit. We design these kits to offer the most options so that it can be used in a number of builds.

I now have a pre fabbed notch that will be available as an option on the 2nd gen kit. For those who want to run the Cadi or F-Body pan

There is also a remote oil filter Hamburger race oil pan in design that is being built to our ideal specs to clear with optimal clearance

As for the First Gen the LH8 is the only GM pan that will clear the stock rear steer and has less hang then the 2nd gen. The 70-81 had a front steering linkage that gives extra clearance for the oil pans sump.

 

Thanks for the response guys. I figured the Cadi pan pictured had too much depth and curve down towards the sump to clear the first gen steering