5.3l overheating problem
Dave
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Pottstown, PA
Harness looked good, but when we went to start it for the first time it would just spin.. Called Jeff and he had no ideas at all, insisted we hooked somthing up wrong. After going over the entire installation we pulled the codes and found a CPS code, did a continuity test and found no continuity between the cps and computer. Jeff was really hard to get ahold of and still claimed no fault on his end.
Called him about the Lean condition, told him what the AFR's were and he said "I guess that's not bad" ????? Wanted the harness and computer back to check it? Talked him into looking at just the computer because I have already fully tested the harness.
Then when I sent the computer back to him to fix the tune/lean problem, he said he would do it and send it back next day.... 2 weeks go by with him not answering the phone and not returning messages (atleast 10) I finaly get him and he says "I forgot about it" Took 4 more days before he shipped it out.
I hate taking down on someone like that but I'm just reporting the facts.
Called him about the Lean condition, told him what the AFR's were and he said "I guess that's not bad" ????? Wanted the harness and computer back to check it? Talked him into looking at just the computer because I have already fully tested the harness.
Then when I sent the computer back to him to fix the tune/lean problem, he said he would do it and send it back next day.... 2 weeks go by with him not answering the phone and not returning messages (atleast 10) I finaly get him and he says "I forgot about it" Took 4 more days before he shipped it out.
I hate taking down on someone like that but I'm just reporting the facts.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Pottstown, PA
Ok, So I have a tester that checks for combustion gases in the coolant system. Checked that out and I have no combustion gases in there, so I am going to say I don't have a bad head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Pottstown, PA
OK, New info!
I am still waiting on my scanner software, so I am just pulling at straws on tuning /computer issues.
So I was just out driving it around and trying different things. What I discovered is the heat issue is rpm related. it doesn't matter how fast you drive or how slow but if the rpm is over 2k it starts to build heat, even sitting still it starts to build heat if you hold it at 25-2800 for more than a minute or so it is up to 220 and climbing.
Any new ideas?
I am still waiting on my scanner software, so I am just pulling at straws on tuning /computer issues.
So I was just out driving it around and trying different things. What I discovered is the heat issue is rpm related. it doesn't matter how fast you drive or how slow but if the rpm is over 2k it starts to build heat, even sitting still it starts to build heat if you hold it at 25-2800 for more than a minute or so it is up to 220 and climbing.
Any new ideas?
Do you have a heater core hooked up in your jeep. I have heard of a few cases in the swap forum where the engines would get hot if you were not using a heater core and just plugged the heater hose ports. If the ports are plugged on the water pump just loop them together with heater hose.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Pottstown, PA
Do you have a heater core hooked up in your jeep. I have heard of a few cases in the swap forum where the engines would get hot if you were not using a heater core and just plugged the heater hose ports. If the ports are plugged on the water pump just loop them together with heater hose.
thanks
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Call it a hunch, I'd put a U on the heater core hookups from the pump and run it like that. Cheap to try and your not gonna hurt anything if it don't work.
Edit: my hunch is that your heater core isn't flowing as much as it should and it's causing some kind of wierd cavitation or something that's screwing up flow.
Like I said, it's a wild hunch.
Edit: my hunch is that your heater core isn't flowing as much as it should and it's causing some kind of wierd cavitation or something that's screwing up flow.
Like I said, it's a wild hunch.
I STILL think its possible the water pump has an issue. Especially with your new found RPM related heat.....
Could be wrong but from a very simple view point it makes most sense. Do you have a spare you can try?
As for the heater hoses.... I have mine capped and my car runs very cool.
Could be wrong but from a very simple view point it makes most sense. Do you have a spare you can try?
As for the heater hoses.... I have mine capped and my car runs very cool.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Pottstown, PA
Think I am going to try the stock T-stat and see if that makes a diference. Water pumi is like $110 T-stat is $12. I hate just throwing money at stuff. maby I will just pull the pump and check the impeller.
why dont you test the flow of the waterpump by hooking up a pressure tester and revving it, it should fluctuate a little with rpm.. another simple test is to rev the motor while trying to sqeeze the radiator hoses with your hand and see if it(waterpump) tries to overcome the restriction- tstat has to be open for this to work though. you should really bring it somewhere before you start throwing parts at it
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Pottstown, PA
Still waiting on my software.
I did check the pump and change to the stock T-stat. Still no change, actualy it didn't have any effect at all. Getting frustrated now. I don't even have to drive it to get it to get to 220-230. Just set the rpm at 2500 and wait about 2 minutes (after it is already warmed up.)
I did check the pump and change to the stock T-stat. Still no change, actualy it didn't have any effect at all. Getting frustrated now. I don't even have to drive it to get it to get to 220-230. Just set the rpm at 2500 and wait about 2 minutes (after it is already warmed up.)