Looking for help removing convertible top assy
Looking for help removing convertible top assy I bought this car like it is and it has some bolts missing from the brackets inside the quarter. Also I am painting the car a different color and would like to pull it out for that anyway.
I need to pull the whole top assembly out.
Can I do that? Can I leave the hydralics hooked up if I do?
I need to pull the whole top assembly out.
Can I do that? Can I leave the hydralics hooked up if I do?
No first hand information but I remember reading a post where the owner said he had removed the entire top and hydraulics as a unit. He said he did not have to open the hydraulics. I searched for the post but could not find it. Maybe someone else will remember.
I started working on it last night. I removed all the 10mm bolts around the edge of the top. I pulled the pin out of the hydrolic parts. I have to go get a T55 torx to remove the hydrolic piece from The top assy. It looks like it has 3 or 4 more bolts that are bolted to the car. I hope thats all, but if anyone knows for sure please let me know.
I was planning on changing from a tan top to a black top and I just found a black top with the entire assy local for $200 and mine is messed up. I think it may have more problems than I first thought. It looks like 2 bars are bent somehow. so I am headed over to look at it.
I was planning on changing from a tan top to a black top and I just found a black top with the entire assy local for $200 and mine is messed up. I think it may have more problems than I first thought. It looks like 2 bars are bent somehow. so I am headed over to look at it.
Same boat, no first hand knowledge, but I also remember that post. Except I remember the guy saying you can remove the pump and hydraulic cylinders as a unit. Removing the top assembly certainly would require the cylinders to be detached. Likely just the pin in the eyelet at the top end of the cylinder would be my guess.
Thanks for the help.
I got it figured out and for anyone else looking for this I'll go ahead and post what I did.
Turn valve on motor in the truck. This makes it were you can manually move the top up and down.
Put top down
Remove phillips screw on the seatbelt cover that is close to the door on top.
Let rear seat down
Remove T50 Torx that holds the rear speaker panel on each side
Remove entire rear panel that has the speaker grille on each side
Remove speaker 4 7mm bolts on each side and then remove speaker wire from speaker
Remove speaker plastic that is behind the speaker on each side. This just pops in and out
Let top up
Go into trunk
Remove the 2 trim panels from under the rear deck where the top meets the trunk. It is held on by plastic push clips.
Remove the cloth panel the runs across the middle. Also held by push clips
Go inside back seat area remove I think 17 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the top where it meets the car
The top should be loose from the body if you pull it alittle
Remove the T55 Torx on each side. these are under the rear panel by the speaker hole.
With top up remove the pin that goes to the cylinder at the top of it. It will be a metel carter pin going thru the main pin on the quarter panel side. Once thats out remove the main pin going thru the cylinder. The cylinder should now be removeable. Just drop it down out of the way.
Get a deep well 13mm and a short extention. Go thru the speaker hole and remove 2 13mm bolts on each side. These are on the inside of the door jam, inside the speaker hole.
now put the top down. I used a 13mm wrench to remove the last 13mm bolt that you can get to from the top with the top down.
Now the top is unbolted and you just have to wiggle it out now.
your done.
I got it figured out and for anyone else looking for this I'll go ahead and post what I did.
Turn valve on motor in the truck. This makes it were you can manually move the top up and down.
Put top down
Remove phillips screw on the seatbelt cover that is close to the door on top.
Let rear seat down
Remove T50 Torx that holds the rear speaker panel on each side
Remove entire rear panel that has the speaker grille on each side
Remove speaker 4 7mm bolts on each side and then remove speaker wire from speaker
Remove speaker plastic that is behind the speaker on each side. This just pops in and out
Let top up
Go into trunk
Remove the 2 trim panels from under the rear deck where the top meets the trunk. It is held on by plastic push clips.
Remove the cloth panel the runs across the middle. Also held by push clips
Go inside back seat area remove I think 17 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the top where it meets the car
The top should be loose from the body if you pull it alittle
Remove the T55 Torx on each side. these are under the rear panel by the speaker hole.
With top up remove the pin that goes to the cylinder at the top of it. It will be a metel carter pin going thru the main pin on the quarter panel side. Once thats out remove the main pin going thru the cylinder. The cylinder should now be removeable. Just drop it down out of the way.
Get a deep well 13mm and a short extention. Go thru the speaker hole and remove 2 13mm bolts on each side. These are on the inside of the door jam, inside the speaker hole.
now put the top down. I used a 13mm wrench to remove the last 13mm bolt that you can get to from the top with the top down.
Now the top is unbolted and you just have to wiggle it out now.
your done.
Thanks for the writeup, brandonppr. Sounds like a fairly straightforward job.
I have a question, slightly off topic. With the top assembly removed, is there access to the outer rear 1/4 panel from the inside? The reason I am asking is because I have a few door dimples in my rear 1/4 panel that cannot be removed by Paintless Dent Repair due to access problems.
If you don't mind sticking a flashlight in there to check, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I have a question, slightly off topic. With the top assembly removed, is there access to the outer rear 1/4 panel from the inside? The reason I am asking is because I have a few door dimples in my rear 1/4 panel that cannot be removed by Paintless Dent Repair due to access problems.
If you don't mind sticking a flashlight in there to check, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the writeup, brandonppr. Sounds like a fairly straightforward job.
I have a question, slightly off topic. With the top assembly removed, is there access to the outer rear 1/4 panel from the inside? The reason I am asking is because I have a few door dimples in my rear 1/4 panel that cannot be removed by Paintless Dent Repair due to access problems.
If you don't mind sticking a flashlight in there to check, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I have a question, slightly off topic. With the top assembly removed, is there access to the outer rear 1/4 panel from the inside? The reason I am asking is because I have a few door dimples in my rear 1/4 panel that cannot be removed by Paintless Dent Repair due to access problems.
If you don't mind sticking a flashlight in there to check, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Other than that you could, but you would have to drill a hole.
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
From: east central Indiana
2hr completed 4th gen convertible top and frame assembly removed Instructions followed step by step by 66 year old women for an hr and was half done, when son got free to help finish. Thank You so much for the thread on how to do this. Now I am just looking for someone with a white convertible top to sell, instead of black. So if putting one on, after removing the one I am buying, goes as easy, that will be a total of approx 6hours and $100, with a spare frame gained.to boot. I couldn't have done it this easy, and maybe not at all, without this site and its great knowledgeable, helpful people leading the way. Thanks again.I took pictures, if I can get them to load, but his words worked perfectly well. zA lifesaver Brandonppr
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
From: east central Indiana
Convertible top removal leaving hydraulic cylinders hooked up on 4th gen TA I bought this car like it is and it has some bolts missing from the brackets inside the quarter. Also I am painting the car a different color and would like to pull it out for that anyway.
I need to pull the whole top assembly out.
Can I do that? Can I leave the hydralics hooked up if I do?
I need to pull the whole top assembly out.
Can I do that? Can I leave the hydralics hooked up if I do?
