, Wheels/Tires are getting done today!
B: I bought someones Track car....
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: DFW
B: I bought someones Track car.... WELLL...
The undercarriage looks good, the paint/body is perfect!
First thing: Oil change, I found some METAL!!!!!
I have been told I can take the oil pan off and look to see how much life is left on the main bearing...If that's the cause!
The Engine is strong, at first, I was like wow this drives like **** and then I realized that the Shocks were set at MAX...I back them down all the way and adjusted to half.....WOW, what a difference! It drives amazing, I have nasty sounds coming from the suspension, the Goodyears are bald and my NT05s will be on tomorrow. I hope the NEW tires will add some ride quality...
O YA, I think it needs a fuel pump...If I don't prime it, it is has a stubborn start....
I have a Extended Warranty and I am good friends with the dealership, I need to take off the intake BEFORE/WHEN the motor fails...I am not sure how much time I have but my whole "Valvetrain/CAM Goal is out out the window"...
What should I do guys?
The Brakes are UN-REAL....OMG, ridiculous!!!!!! The suspension is amazing now that it is on a "moderate setting"...
Any suggestions?
First post of pics of her. If you do not, we'll whip you with a performance hood seal.
How much metal was there in pan? Did you check to see if there was any metal in the oil filter? Pulling the oil pan is a PITA as you pretty much need to drop the entire front cross member to get enough room to get the pan off. Also you need to support/suspend the engine and torque tube up while you lower the cross member. It basically takes a couple more hours to pull the entire engine. If you do that, you might as well replace the main bearings.
How much metal was there in pan? Did you check to see if there was any metal in the oil filter? Pulling the oil pan is a PITA as you pretty much need to drop the entire front cross member to get enough room to get the pan off. Also you need to support/suspend the engine and torque tube up while you lower the cross member. It basically takes a couple more hours to pull the entire engine. If you do that, you might as well replace the main bearings.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: DFW
First post of pics of her. If you do not, we'll whip you with a performance hood seal.
How much metal was there in pan? Did you check to see if there was any metal in the oil filter? Pulling the oil pan is a PITA as you pretty much need to drop the entire front cross member to get enough room to get the pan off. Also you need to support/suspend the engine and torque tube up while you lower the cross member. It basically takes a couple more hours to pull the entire engine. If you do that, you might as well replace the main bearings.
How much metal was there in pan? Did you check to see if there was any metal in the oil filter? Pulling the oil pan is a PITA as you pretty much need to drop the entire front cross member to get enough room to get the pan off. Also you need to support/suspend the engine and torque tube up while you lower the cross member. It basically takes a couple more hours to pull the entire engine. If you do that, you might as well replace the main bearings.
I have an extended warranty...Should I pull the Lingenfelter intake and make them replace the LS7? God this sucks....
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Norfolk, Va
you should be able to get it replaced when it breaks even with the intake...they would have to prove the intake is what caused the motor to fail.
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From: Cypress, TX
If you have any inclination that the engine is going to blow, I wouldn't cam it right away. You mentioned to me that you only found metal on the magnetic drain plug. Well, it's magnetic for a reason. How much metal are we talking about? Big pieces? Little flecks?
Did you pull the service history?
Did you pull the service history?
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From: DFW
If you prime it for 5 seconds then push in the clutch, it fires up...
But, if you were going to push in the clutch ASAP and atempt to fire it up, the engine would allow 2 RPM for TDC Sensor and Crank postion sensor then fuel pressure......Then it should fire up after the series of things happens...
Right?
But if you tried to start it asap, the fuel pressure should already be at 80% right?
I think a sensor is bad or it has a different fuel system, I didn't see anything different?
Maybe the pump has been changing?
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