Looking For More/ What Next????
Looking For More/ What Next???? well im looking for more power out of my C5Z, so i thought i would ask what/were should i look next for more HP or performance.
Here is a current list of mods
347ci LS6:
Kings Cam bearings, bored 3.905" done by TPIS
Stock Ls6 Crank, polished/balanced
Diamond LW Forged flattop pistons #11502 (404 grams each) w/ floating pins.
Probe LW Forged I-beam Rods 6.125" (600grams each) w/ ARP bolts
Clevite Coated "H" Main bearings
ACL hi-perf/race rod bearings
Total seal Rings (conventional gap) 1.5mm/1.5mm/3mm
C6 oil pan
TSP 233/239 .598 .603 113LSA cam
LS2 Timing Chain
Ported Ls6 oil pump Shimed .060"
160* T stat
PRC .650 Dual valve springs
Manley hardened pushrods 7.400"
Ls7 Lifters
Stock 1.7 Rockers
ARP head bolts
Ported 243's flowed 317cfm intake/210 cfm exhaust, 228 cc intake volume. 65 cc combustion chamber
Bolt-on:
Kooks 1 7/8 LT's Catless 3" Xpipe
B&B Dual Tip Bullets
Callaway Honker CAI
Stock 85mm MAF
Hinson Ported Fast 92mm
Ported LS2 90mm TB
SLP U/D Pulley Keyed to Crank
SVO 30# Red Top Injectors
Stock Fuel Rails
Stock Fuel Pump
ECS Diff Brace
Lingenfelter Hardened Output shaft
Stock 3.42 Gears
MSD plug wires/ NGK plugs
Baer 14" Era Speed Rotors
LNC-002 2-step
Cenforce DF 12" Clutch
B&M Shifter
Elite Eng Catch Can
Nitto 305-35-18 DRs
Dynoed 460rwhp 418rwtq with a fouled MAFs on a DynoJet
So my question is where should i go from here???
Nitrous? Boost??? etc.......
Here is a current list of mods
347ci LS6:
Kings Cam bearings, bored 3.905" done by TPIS
Stock Ls6 Crank, polished/balanced
Diamond LW Forged flattop pistons #11502 (404 grams each) w/ floating pins.
Probe LW Forged I-beam Rods 6.125" (600grams each) w/ ARP bolts
Clevite Coated "H" Main bearings
ACL hi-perf/race rod bearings
Total seal Rings (conventional gap) 1.5mm/1.5mm/3mm
C6 oil pan
TSP 233/239 .598 .603 113LSA cam
LS2 Timing Chain
Ported Ls6 oil pump Shimed .060"
160* T stat
PRC .650 Dual valve springs
Manley hardened pushrods 7.400"
Ls7 Lifters
Stock 1.7 Rockers
ARP head bolts
Ported 243's flowed 317cfm intake/210 cfm exhaust, 228 cc intake volume. 65 cc combustion chamber
Bolt-on:
Kooks 1 7/8 LT's Catless 3" Xpipe
B&B Dual Tip Bullets
Callaway Honker CAI
Stock 85mm MAF
Hinson Ported Fast 92mm
Ported LS2 90mm TB
SLP U/D Pulley Keyed to Crank
SVO 30# Red Top Injectors
Stock Fuel Rails
Stock Fuel Pump
ECS Diff Brace
Lingenfelter Hardened Output shaft
Stock 3.42 Gears
MSD plug wires/ NGK plugs
Baer 14" Era Speed Rotors
LNC-002 2-step
Cenforce DF 12" Clutch
B&M Shifter
Elite Eng Catch Can
Nitto 305-35-18 DRs
Dynoed 460rwhp 418rwtq with a fouled MAFs on a DynoJet
So my question is where should i go from here???
Nitrous? Boost??? etc.......
Hmm looks like you got quite a nice list already. Personally i dont think you could go wrong with boost or nitrous. What compression are you at? If you do to much more i am going to have to step my game up just wish i would have went forged. Good luck with everything.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
C6ZO6's MAKE 435-445 so your car should be a beast... all that's really left is forced induction of some type ...turbo or supercharged if you just want a lot more power 600 to 800 at the wheels and no traction
. Me personally i am happy with 491/428 nUmbers that i am making off the stock bottom LS-2
. Me personally i am happy with 491/428 nUmbers that i am making off the stock bottom LS-2 well i dont think id go with 3.73's but 3.91's do seem entertaining! Ive been up in the air over FI or Spray. with the cam that is in the car it kinda puts FI out of the question. I have a bit to much overlap. (<- Someone correct me on this if i am wrong) around a +5 on the overlap math.
The problem with the Gear swap is i have the GetRag rear and would have to have the car down for a few months to get the diff sent off for the proper gear to be installed.
But before i switched Rear Gears i would like to weigh all of my options first. If i went a Turbo route i wouldnt want a 3.91 gear. (do you understand what im getting at)
This is why I created the tread tho, to see weigh the different types of FI/Nitrous/NA setups from someone else's First Person perspective.
The problem with the Gear swap is i have the GetRag rear and would have to have the car down for a few months to get the diff sent off for the proper gear to be installed.
But before i switched Rear Gears i would like to weigh all of my options first. If i went a Turbo route i wouldnt want a 3.91 gear. (do you understand what im getting at)
This is why I created the tread tho, to see weigh the different types of FI/Nitrous/NA setups from someone else's First Person perspective.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
I didn't think the 3.73 would make a major difference either untill i made the change i destroyed the stock diff and wanted to upgrade but didn't want to go as short as a 3.91 .Go with a larger short block or stroke your on might be your cheapest option, you are likely to gain 40hp or more on the low side.
i destroyed the stock diff and wanted to upgrade but didn't want to go as short as a 3.91 .Go with a larger short block or stroke your on might be your cheapest option, you are likely to gain 40hp or more on the low side. LS1 Tech Stories
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