Mounting 16" ET Streets on a C5
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Mounting 16" ET Streets on a C5 So, the best option for mounting a 16" ET Street on a C5 IMHO is to use a CCW drag pack.
In fact, here is a post from DTE on their "ideal" setup for a C5.
But, if you don't have the money for a set of CCW's, then there are other options. Basically you are looking for a 16x8 or 16x9 wheel. The two I am most familiar with folks using are a 1984 Corvette C4 wheel, and the other is a 4th Gen 6 Cylinder F-Body (Camaro/Firebird).
The nice thing about the F-Body wheel is you can pair it with the spare off a later model GTO (which makes a nice front runner) and the don't look too bad together.
So, here is what I did. I test fit the wheel and found I had to dimple the top of the dust car with a small hammer. There is a small protrusion on the top of the dust cap that hit.
On the wheel itself, the fins of the wheel (on the inside) hit the brake caliper. So, I had to trim the fins. You could also run a small spacer. I rounded the top of the A-Arm with a DA sander just a little to make sure the wheel cleared, but I think it was unecessary after the fact.
The fins were the biggest clearance issue I had. I think the other stuff would have basically ben a non-issue if I had caught that up front.
[img]
In fact, here is a post from DTE on their "ideal" setup for a C5.
Originally Posted by DTE Powertrain
This is the combination we frequently use here on our customers' drag cars and this particular Corvette was built here for 3-time NHRA Pro Stock Drag Racing Champion- Darryll Alderman.
- CCW light weight front/rear wheels
- Hoosier 28x10x16 C07 rear drag slicks (very light weight tire carcass compared to 11"+ wider tires)
- M&H Racemaster 4.5x26x17 front tires (also very light weight tire carcass compared to 6"+ wider tires)
*Slight machining needed on rear spindle uprights to accept rear wheels, 12 psi. rear cold/45 psi. front cold, 4-wheel alignment done w/ dynamically loaded chassis to simulate launch stance, QA1, Poly, no sway bars, 4-corner shock adjustment offsets, stock brakes & the entire combination is *very* light weight.
This TT car runs high 9's all day in the heat w/ high 1.3's-1.4 shorts everytime and approx. 1-2 tire revolutions at launch for best 1.3-ish short. 130+ MPH trap speeds are rock stable at big end to where the ride is quite boring once past half-track while you're sitting there with nothing to do..
*VERY* effective, but definately not "cheap", but as Chris said- "cheap" and drag racing these high powered cars shouldn't be used in the same sentence.
- CCW light weight front/rear wheels
- Hoosier 28x10x16 C07 rear drag slicks (very light weight tire carcass compared to 11"+ wider tires)
- M&H Racemaster 4.5x26x17 front tires (also very light weight tire carcass compared to 6"+ wider tires)
*Slight machining needed on rear spindle uprights to accept rear wheels, 12 psi. rear cold/45 psi. front cold, 4-wheel alignment done w/ dynamically loaded chassis to simulate launch stance, QA1, Poly, no sway bars, 4-corner shock adjustment offsets, stock brakes & the entire combination is *very* light weight.
This TT car runs high 9's all day in the heat w/ high 1.3's-1.4 shorts everytime and approx. 1-2 tire revolutions at launch for best 1.3-ish short. 130+ MPH trap speeds are rock stable at big end to where the ride is quite boring once past half-track while you're sitting there with nothing to do..
*VERY* effective, but definately not "cheap", but as Chris said- "cheap" and drag racing these high powered cars shouldn't be used in the same sentence.
The nice thing about the F-Body wheel is you can pair it with the spare off a later model GTO (which makes a nice front runner) and the don't look too bad together.
So, here is what I did. I test fit the wheel and found I had to dimple the top of the dust car with a small hammer. There is a small protrusion on the top of the dust cap that hit.
On the wheel itself, the fins of the wheel (on the inside) hit the brake caliper. So, I had to trim the fins. You could also run a small spacer. I rounded the top of the A-Arm with a DA sander just a little to make sure the wheel cleared, but I think it was unecessary after the fact.
The fins were the biggest clearance issue I had. I think the other stuff would have basically ben a non-issue if I had caught that up front.
[img]
Last edited by J-Rod; Oct 7, 2010 at 04:14 PM.
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6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Texas
Now, what do you do with the fronts?
An ET Street is a bias ply. If you run a bias ply on the rear, and a radial on the front you will get a car that "feels" really funny. The car doesn't inspire a lot of confidence, and it feels like the rear wants to step out on you. Anyone who knows anyhting about tires will tell you NEVER to mix bias ply and radials. Its an accident waiting to happen.
But, I'm used to it so it doesn't bother me. But, I would recommend anyone doing this to take the time to get a set of bias ply front runners.
Again, a set of bias ply front runners on a set of GTO spares is a nice setup.
One option is the 26/4.0/17 M&H frontrunners if you go up to 17" wheels (and tires) you can use a C5 thinspokes (from the front of the car) with Mickey Thmopson 26/11.5/17
An ET Street is a bias ply. If you run a bias ply on the rear, and a radial on the front you will get a car that "feels" really funny. The car doesn't inspire a lot of confidence, and it feels like the rear wants to step out on you. Anyone who knows anyhting about tires will tell you NEVER to mix bias ply and radials. Its an accident waiting to happen.
But, I'm used to it so it doesn't bother me. But, I would recommend anyone doing this to take the time to get a set of bias ply front runners.
Again, a set of bias ply front runners on a set of GTO spares is a nice setup.
One option is the 26/4.0/17 M&H frontrunners if you go up to 17" wheels (and tires) you can use a C5 thinspokes (from the front of the car) with Mickey Thmopson 26/11.5/17
Thread Starter
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
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