"To-Do List" for Drivetrain Refurb - 2000 FRC
02-15-2017, 11:47 AM
#1
"To-Do List" for Drivetrain Refurb - 2000 FRC I am in the middle of a mid-winter project to refurbish and maintain the drivetrain (everything from the engine back) in my 2000 FRC. It is for the most part stock (minus some exhaust work), with 115K miles.
Here's my list of things I'm changing out and replacing while I'm in there. Just wanted to see if I'm missing anything.
Engine:
Rear Cover Gasket 12639249
Rear Main Seal 89060436
GM Pilot Bearing
Clutch:
LS7 Flywheel
LS7 Clutch Disc
LS7 Pressure Plate
New Flywheel and Pressure plate hardware (GM)
New GM throwout bearing/slave cylinder 24264180
Torque Tube:
New OEM GM 10mm couplers
-are the Chinese Dorman replacements ok? I bought a set of new ones from ZIP Corvette and was disappointed to see China cast into them, with a relabeled Dorman box. I've also read that some BMW replacements are acceptable...thoughts? This car only sees street duty with a couple road course days per year. No drag racing.
-Torque Tube bearings will not be replaced, they are very tight with no slop and no runout on the input shaft.
Shifter: I am refurbishing my C6Z06 upper and lower shifter with new custom brass bushings to eliminate slop. No issues here.
Trans:
-I tore this down to replace the centering spring, but also will replace the fork pads with billet bronze units.
-Fluid recommendation? Have used Valvoline ATF Dex III in all my T56s without problems, but looking for a smoother feel.
-Linkage bushings, thinking about making new brass inserts for the u-joints
Differential:
RKT56 4.10 gears
New C6Z Clutch packs and springs
All new seals and o-rings
Fluid recommendation?
Plan on following Rick's break in procedure:
"-Drive in varying speeds between 30-45 MPH for at least 30 minutes.
-DO NOT exceed 50 MPH!!!!!!
-NO aggressive accelerate for the duration of the break in.
-Repeat this break in cycle for 500 miles minimum.
-If you don't do this EXACTLY, the diff WILL whine. "
I am installing some Energy Suspension Rear Sway Bar bushings while I'm in there as well.
Anything I'm missing?
Here's my list of things I'm changing out and replacing while I'm in there. Just wanted to see if I'm missing anything.
Engine:
Rear Cover Gasket 12639249
Rear Main Seal 89060436
GM Pilot Bearing
Clutch:
LS7 Flywheel
LS7 Clutch Disc
LS7 Pressure Plate
New Flywheel and Pressure plate hardware (GM)
New GM throwout bearing/slave cylinder 24264180
Torque Tube:
New OEM GM 10mm couplers
-are the Chinese Dorman replacements ok? I bought a set of new ones from ZIP Corvette and was disappointed to see China cast into them, with a relabeled Dorman box. I've also read that some BMW replacements are acceptable...thoughts? This car only sees street duty with a couple road course days per year. No drag racing.
-Torque Tube bearings will not be replaced, they are very tight with no slop and no runout on the input shaft.
Shifter: I am refurbishing my C6Z06 upper and lower shifter with new custom brass bushings to eliminate slop. No issues here.
Trans:
-I tore this down to replace the centering spring, but also will replace the fork pads with billet bronze units.
-Fluid recommendation? Have used Valvoline ATF Dex III in all my T56s without problems, but looking for a smoother feel.
-Linkage bushings, thinking about making new brass inserts for the u-joints
Differential:
RKT56 4.10 gears
New C6Z Clutch packs and springs
All new seals and o-rings
Fluid recommendation?
Plan on following Rick's break in procedure:
"-Drive in varying speeds between 30-45 MPH for at least 30 minutes.
-DO NOT exceed 50 MPH!!!!!!
-NO aggressive accelerate for the duration of the break in.
-Repeat this break in cycle for 500 miles minimum.
-If you don't do this EXACTLY, the diff WILL whine. "
I am installing some Energy Suspension Rear Sway Bar bushings while I'm in there as well.
Anything I'm missing?
02-27-2017, 06:59 AM
#3
Glad you posted, I am about to buy fluid for the trans and rear.
Thinking cheap Valvoline Dex3 ATF for the trans for the first 500 miles to flush out all the ****, then either the GM Syncromesh or Royal Purple Syncromesh for the long term.
Rear end fluid, GM?
Thinking cheap Valvoline Dex3 ATF for the trans for the first 500 miles to flush out all the ****, then either the GM Syncromesh or Royal Purple Syncromesh for the long term.
Rear end fluid, GM?