Lowering the front, question...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Ashburn, VA
Lowering the front, question... I have already done the rear, no problem there...
The couple of online resources I have online say that to lower the front;
jack, remove wheel, jack under spring to unload, and rotate the 10mm bolt counter clockwise until there is no space between it and the bushing.
HMMMMMMMM
Well, it's jacked, front wheels off, but I dont see no 10mm bolt! From the top down on the bolt, there is a metal clip/retainer, the spring, a bushing, then I assume, the head of the bolt. Under that is covered by the A arm.
Even wierder on the driver side, I have about a half inch gap between the retainer and the spring.
Anyone else ran into this before? Should I just snug the retainer down on the bolt? It just doesn't look like something that was meant to hold a load. So I am assuming unlike the rear where we want to leave a minimum of thread showing on top, on the front we want max thread showing on the top?
Anyone?
Forgot to add relevant info:
Car is a 2000 Coupe with stock (base) suspension. I bought the car new so no chance anyone removed before.
The couple of online resources I have online say that to lower the front;
jack, remove wheel, jack under spring to unload, and rotate the 10mm bolt counter clockwise until there is no space between it and the bushing.
HMMMMMMMM
Well, it's jacked, front wheels off, but I dont see no 10mm bolt! From the top down on the bolt, there is a metal clip/retainer, the spring, a bushing, then I assume, the head of the bolt. Under that is covered by the A arm.
Even wierder on the driver side, I have about a half inch gap between the retainer and the spring.
Anyone else ran into this before? Should I just snug the retainer down on the bolt? It just doesn't look like something that was meant to hold a load. So I am assuming unlike the rear where we want to leave a minimum of thread showing on top, on the front we want max thread showing on the top?
Anyone?
Forgot to add relevant info:
Car is a 2000 Coupe with stock (base) suspension. I bought the car new so no chance anyone removed before.
Last edited by iflubyu; Mar 8, 2005 at 07:34 PM. Reason: missing information
I didn't have a spring on mine. Just think of it as a upside down 10mm bolt and yes just turn it (isn't there a small about 3/8 hex head on end of threads) CC till it bottoms then 1/8 turn back. worked great for me.
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu-Hi
The bolt head should be sticking out the top of the spring (one at each end).The other end is a flat piece of metal with rubber glued on it.As you turn the head,the gap will get bigger or smaller.If there is little or no gap between the spring and lower a-arm,it's been lowered "on the stock bolts"...I removed the bolt/bushing you refering to and trimmed the mounting pads (rubber) for a 4" drop..
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu-Hi
Down to the cockroaches eye *****. 
Stock suspension too,no coil overs.High speeds are rock solid..Launching the 1/4 mile is pretty good too,the rear just dips a tad,then straight ahead,no wheel hop what so ever.Cornering,no need to explain this one,i have the ZO6 wheels and tires with no issues.
I'm 6'-1",when i stand next to the roof,it's just a little higher than my belly button.I'll boroow a quote from my chopper buddies,"loud pipes save lives"..
Don't forget to wave..
Stock suspension too,no coil overs.High speeds are rock solid..Launching the 1/4 mile is pretty good too,the rear just dips a tad,then straight ahead,no wheel hop what so ever.Cornering,no need to explain this one,i have the ZO6 wheels and tires with no issues.
I'm 6'-1",when i stand next to the roof,it's just a little higher than my belly button.I'll boroow a quote from my chopper buddies,"loud pipes save lives"..
Don't forget to wave..
