How to get a 2000-03 Vette into the 10's?
 

I'm planning to purchase a Vette very soon and would like to get an idea of what is the best route to take to get it into the 10 second zone.

How much RWHP do I need?
What is the easest way to get that power?
What needs to be upgraded so it won't break?

Thanks

heads and cam will get you in the 10's, big stall, steep gears and you're there!


or cam only on the juice.

you will definately need a hardened output shaft for the rear.

True. I haven't needed one, yet. I would get the DTE brace, which I have, that eliminates, or helps to eliminate the binding/twisting of the trans and diff,...to prevent the output shaft from breaking...



A nasty cam, and heads will get you there but,..your gonna need a GEAR,..and alot of traction. Spray would get you there for sure. I would go with heads and cam, and spray. About a hundred shot, to a 150 shot. TNT F1 kit. That way, all you need is a sticky tire,...and a heavy right foot, and a quicker left foot, if you get a six speed, which I recommend. :devil:

Forced Induction is my vote.

It's been done with 3.90's and 400rwhp. Launch super hard, its all in the 60 foot.

i would go with A&A's procharger kit, full exhaust, aluminumum radiator, t-stat,race clutch, hardened shafts, tranny brace, and tires.

A heads, cam, long tube headers, N20 setup would be the least expensive.

Twin turbos is definitely my preferance.

Obviously you'll very likely need to harden several components in your drive line.

Mark

Thanks everyone, I think I like either the twin turbo idea with the procharger coming in second. I know TT will make a ton of power but the price is very high also. Which kit would you recommend?

My question about the procharger system is will a procharger on a relatively stock motor make enough power to run that fast. I really didn't want to rip into the engine if I didn't have too. But I'll have exhaust, MAF, and TB upgrades, basically all the easy stuff.

Also, I think I'd like to do this with an automatic car, any thoughts?

I dunno why you'd bother with a twin turbo setup unless you want 900 horsepower.

The procharger at 7psi , full exhaust and a good tune should make 500-ish to the wheels on an LS1. Stock motor can handle 7psi. I dunno anything about the auto trans, but i'm sure other will chime in or you can search. If you get a 4000 stall like some of these guys you will launch off the line in your powerband which = insane

this has been done, but I think you'll need to add a bottle to this setup. IMO, you'll only see mid to low 11's with this setup.

I'd go with H/C, Stall, Gears, Slicks, full intake and exaust, and spray 100shot maybe even 150shot. And that will get you in the 10's.

Beware your rear end will break if you don't do something with it. I.E. get one built or have hardened gears and output shafts installed. I broke my outputshaft with drag radials and only running 12's........ :eek2:

JMO

So you're telling me you broke your output shafts in a corvette running what corvettes are supposed to run stock on street tires?

Yes half shafts made for a 12.5 second car will start breaking when turning a low 11 second e.t. If you want 10's, driveline will be an issue.

pray it doesn't rain this saturday and I'll find out if mid 10's are possible with a cam only, stall, gears, slicks, and spray can do it. All the math should put me about 10.50@125-128 with a 150 dry shot

JEFF

It depends on where your track is. I have about 485 rwhp and a gear and my best is 11.6 @ 121 with a 1.65 60'.

I have an 02 M6. I started in the rear end. I am running all of the DTE stuff, the pinion support, both shafts, pre load springs and brace. I also have 4.10s right now. LG LTs w/high flow cats, and a Borla Quad. Last but certainly not least, a VaraRam intake. I run 11.94s all day long in 87 degree weather. I am ordering a blower next week and that will put me into the 10s. Might have to change gears though. I'll give the 4.10s a shot and see what happens and change them out when the stock clutch goes, which probably won't be long after the blower install.

It's all a matter of stress. Either burn tires or break shafts with stock parts. If you take away the tire slip by using DRs or ET Streets, you put the output shafts at risk. Believe it or not, the vette is not designed as a drag racer. Same as gears letting go on an F-body.

Number one buy an auto vette add all boltons and a head cam package designed to meet your goals and a converter and gears to match, light tires and wheels good weather, low elevation track and traction, your there.

How to get a 2000-03 Vette into the 10's?
 

I agree with your advice since I just ran 10.97@126 yesterday with my 2000 A4 C5. My car is driven weekly and sometimes on vacation to the beach. It is NA and 346 c.i. with heads/cam, etc. as listed above. You could just buy my car or start with another one and try it yourself.

No.........I was running 12's with H/C and bolt ons, minus headers (I know, there weak ET's) and DR's! But my clutch was slipping bad. So I upgraded to a twin disc. After that, I went to the track and the tires hooked well and the clutch grabbed hard........the only thing that was weak was the output shaft. So I bought a DTS stage III rear differential with 3:90 gears from LG. :devil: Now the tracks are closed for winter......... :cry: