LT Malice

iTrader: (3)

I just bought a 1997 C5 last week. It has 74xxx miles. I just pulled the following codes out of it with HPtuners.

DTC P1571 Traction Control Torque Request Circuit
DTC B2283 Battery #1 Circuit
DTC B0521 Tachometer Circuit Malfunction
DTC U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
DTC U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
DTC B2242 Memory 1 Switch Circuit
DTC B2285 Battery #2 Circuit
DTC B2263 Horizontal Position Sensor Circuit
DTC B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Circuit
DTC B2265 Vertical Position Sensor Circuit
DTC B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Circuit
DTC U1064 Lost Communications with BCM (twice)

Holy **** that is a lot of codes. I'd like to believe that one of those would have set the "check engine" light, but it never turned on. I just bought the car, I wonder if they guy who sold it to me pulled the bulb out of the check engine lamp.

Are all of those related? Could they all be stemming from a poor quality alternator or something?I don't even know what half of them are.

GTFORMULA

iTrader: (94)

Funny thing is mine has just about the same codes. Mine does have the check engine light on though. Mine started even since I sprayed my car real hard and then in the middle of a run it went into "reduced power mode". After that it seems like I had the light on with similar codes. Hopefully someone will point us in the right direction.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

check out www.gearchatter.com
also my car goes into low power mode seems like every time i drive it, sux

Vettetech81

I would clear the codes and see what comes back.. maybe you have a ground issue or some common source for all problems.. good luck! not the end of the world I've seen a bunch of vettes with multiple codes in them... BTW you can pull codes on the C5's through the DIC turn the key on eng off hold the gauges button and hit the fuel button 4 times...
-=Rick

LT Malice

iTrader: (3)

I did the DIC trick, but there were so many, I couldn't write them down in time.

I'm gonna erase all the codes, and check the fuse for my tire press. sensor and key FOB radio reciever. Neither of those systems is working right now.

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

I wouldnt worry about it unless they come back. You just need to clear all the codes and reboot all the controllers for for everything.

Jed Z06

iTrader: (1)

I agree!
Those codes may have been there for a while.
Dont sweat it, just clear them and move on!

LT Malice

iTrader: (3)

I erased all the codes. Most stayed gone, but a few returned quickly. HPTuners wouldn't erase them, I had to do it manually with the DIC.

THe following returned after a short drive

RTD No Comm.

10-PCM P0410 C.............Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System
P1571 H............Traction Control Torque Request Circuit

80-Radio U1016 H............Loss of Communications with PCM

BO-RFA U1096 H..............Loss of Communications with IPC

U1064 H..............Lost Communications with BCM


THese sound to me like a couple blown fuses, or a nightmarish short somewhere. They aren't affecting drivability at all, but I don't want any kind of deep routed problem to grow.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

im in the same boat with codes , my car goes into limp mode everytime i go out
im using a z06 85mm MAF
codes are
p1515 h - control module throttle acuator postion performance
p1516 h- throttle acuator control
p1626 h- theft deterrent fuel enable signal
p1638 h c - generator
c1278 h- tcs-temporarily inhibited
c 594 h c- right rear solinoid open
u 1096 h
u 1064 h
u 1016 h
u 1160 h
c 2120 h c tire pressure
i keep clearing the history codes but they come back
the p1638 h c is the generator- i installed a 200 amp alt three years ago and always got this code ever since with no issues
c2120- i have no tire pressure gauges-never an issue in years
c594 right rear solinoid open- im goona check this out, but the manuel says it shouldnt go into low power mode cause of this
the u codes are from dissconnecting the battery. i dont get it.

200MPH

iTrader: (3)

Try your 2 grounding points up front. They are grounding connectors where multiple grounds come into the connector. They get dirty and lose contact. Just pull them apart and spray some carb cleaner in there to clean them out or just get rid of the connectors.

NEED2SPEEDLS1

heyy, i just tried that trick to see if I could pull any codes from the DIC. the turn on accs. then off and hold gauges and hit fuel 4 times, well nothing showed up at all. does that mean I have no codes? maybe I did it wrong because I never did it before but nothing happend

NEED2SPEEDLS1

EDIT!! UPDATE!! I just did the RIGHT way for doin that trick, and I was very suprised that only about 2 or 3 codes came up out of all them. and they were all H (past codes) Seeing that most of you guys said a bunch poped up, i was very nervious, lol. Ill probably see what they mean a little bit later, im just happy that i didn;t have a handfull. By the way, any meaning for lots or little codes? I obviously know what the codes are and why they come up, but like why are these guys getting a **** load?

linn.35

If you have HPtuners then you can actually tune those codes completely off. I am not sure excatly how to do it step by step but I know it can be done cause I have seen it personally with my eyes be done. A good tuner would know how.

VETTEX2

after they scroll thru, you can manually pull them up one at a time

molson

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the battery is good.......Vettes are VERY voltage sensitive and a weak battery can cause all sorts of issues.

Check the easy stuff first.

Blacked Out

I belive all the loss of comunication codes are the result of you battery being disconected and they wont go away for so many engine starts. Dont think you need to worry about those.

SVT BAIT

iTrader: (1)

When I bought my c5 the same thing happend it said reduced engine power it did that after I punched my car down a street then I slowed down and car turned off...so I tooke it to haddad motorsports changed out my 02 sensors has been perfect since then

LT Malice

iTrader: (3)

I cleaned the front two grounds, and the battery grounds. Car is running a little bit better.

I'm concerned about the gauges though. I used a voltmeter to measure the battery and alt. while the car was running. both had 14.5 volts. The inside gauge never showes more than 13.1 though. Whats up with that? The oil press gauge also shows between 32-40psi all the time. I thought the OP was supposed to be higher.

When I start the car, the gauges are really slow to rise to thier correct readings. THe volts and oil press both rise to 13V and 38psi over about 5 seconds. Do all vettes do this?

Synister_Motorsports

iTrader: (2)

my personal car develops a new code every time I drive it its almost funny now!

SVT BAIT

iTrader: (1)

lol....