Weight transfer
02-02-2009, 10:57 AM
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tellico Plains, TN
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Weight transfer Trying to tweak in my suspension after some parts changes and have been unsuccessful so far. I went from a trans mount adjustable TA to body mount adjustable and went from solid LCAs to adj. LCAs, at the same length. The front QA1s were changed from F series to R series. As far a suspension mods go:
26" ET Fronts on 3.5" Prostars and 26" x 10" ET Drags on 8" Prostars.
I have the R series QA1s up front set at 0 with 275 lbs. springs and no swaybar.
Subframe connectors.
Body mount TA set at -2 and put in the top hole of the IC adjustment as was recommended.
Adj. LCAs in the bottom hole of the relocation brackets.
Comp. eng. rear shocks set at 50/50.
Stock springs with the hose mod and air bags.
Adj. PHB.
Sits at 26 1/4" in the front and 27 1/2" in the back as measured from the top of the wheel wells to the ground.
The car is heads, cam, stalled, geared and sprayed; but spray not being used because of the traction issues.
All my testing has been done on the street since my local track is almost 2 hrs. away. The car doesn't want to transfer weight and blows the tires out from under it instantly. It hooked better with the longer TA. My buddies cammed and stalled TA hooks better than my car on the street and he has Nittos and stock suspension. I wonder if it would help if I put my LCA arms up a hole in the relo bracket if it would help by moving my IC foward more? They seem to be at a pretty steep angle. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post!
26" ET Fronts on 3.5" Prostars and 26" x 10" ET Drags on 8" Prostars.
I have the R series QA1s up front set at 0 with 275 lbs. springs and no swaybar.
Subframe connectors.
Body mount TA set at -2 and put in the top hole of the IC adjustment as was recommended.
Adj. LCAs in the bottom hole of the relocation brackets.
Comp. eng. rear shocks set at 50/50.
Stock springs with the hose mod and air bags.
Adj. PHB.
Sits at 26 1/4" in the front and 27 1/2" in the back as measured from the top of the wheel wells to the ground.
The car is heads, cam, stalled, geared and sprayed; but spray not being used because of the traction issues.
All my testing has been done on the street since my local track is almost 2 hrs. away. The car doesn't want to transfer weight and blows the tires out from under it instantly. It hooked better with the longer TA. My buddies cammed and stalled TA hooks better than my car on the street and he has Nittos and stock suspension. I wonder if it would help if I put my LCA arms up a hole in the relo bracket if it would help by moving my IC foward more? They seem to be at a pretty steep angle. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post!
02-02-2009, 01:05 PM
#4
Well What I can say is this, the street is not a accurate tool for guaging what it can do at the track and beleive me im in the North East where we are shut down for almost half the year it sucks and I live 2-1/2 hrs away.
Unless your spaying VHT down and can get a clean burn and being in area where you can't hurt people, you just dont know.
That car has some good suspension peices but frankly, you need to look at tire choice, and gear/stall choice. As for the the way the car reacts, if it is on a radial, that problem # 1, be it s Nitto/BFG/or M/T they all can have issues on the street, I have used them all on a auto and you need to be soft on the launch.
When it comes to a car and making it do the best job it can do, you need to leave at maximum effort, anything less is pointless. I suspect that you slap on some bias ply's it going to take that heavy car and give it the ability to NOT shock the tire so hard that blows off the tires and it will/should not slam the car on the rear like M6 cars do.
The Stall/Gearing should be the last thing you do, it should dial in and optimize this combonation of power, race weight, tire/suspension.
Unless your spaying VHT down and can get a clean burn and being in area where you can't hurt people, you just dont know.
That car has some good suspension peices but frankly, you need to look at tire choice, and gear/stall choice. As for the the way the car reacts, if it is on a radial, that problem # 1, be it s Nitto/BFG/or M/T they all can have issues on the street, I have used them all on a auto and you need to be soft on the launch.
When it comes to a car and making it do the best job it can do, you need to leave at maximum effort, anything less is pointless. I suspect that you slap on some bias ply's it going to take that heavy car and give it the ability to NOT shock the tire so hard that blows off the tires and it will/should not slam the car on the rear like M6 cars do.
The Stall/Gearing should be the last thing you do, it should dial in and optimize this combonation of power, race weight, tire/suspension.
02-02-2009, 01:39 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tellico Plains, TN
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks! As of now it's on bias-ply ET Drags. Around where I live it's pretty easy to get a secluded strip of road for awhile. Would'nt chance hurting anyone else or my self.
02-03-2009, 08:08 AM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tellico Plains, TN
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Will do. Would like to get it hooking pretty well on the street also. It did better with the longer TA. Any other suggestions as to what I can try adjusting?