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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Default Englishtown crew....

Any of you guys running mufflers right off the headers and racing in muffled classes?

I used to have to race un-muffled class, with a full exhaust and loud mouth, then with a full exhaust and bullets, but a couple people told me to just run a baffled muffler just off the header with a turn down. Will that pass the tech guy at E town for a "muffled" vehicle? Trying to get a little lighter.

Thanks in advance,
Christian
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:28 PM
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I would call and check. I think the exhaust has to extend to the rear-most part of the door unless you have a turbo car.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tektrans
I would call and check. I think the exhaust has to extend to the rear-most part of the door unless you have a turbo car.


not sure about "baffled muffler" though...

tektrans copied my exhaust, mufflers are only so by name... they are prety much strait thru, but we both pass tech at E-Town...

You also have to be under 92dB regardless of exhaust setup... so they say...
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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Pretty sure they need to be baffled mufflers AND extend to the rear of the driver's door. I'm not 100% so just call them.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6TransAm01


not sure about "baffled muffler" though...

tektrans copied my exhaust, mufflers are only so by name... they are prety much strait thru, but we both pass tech at E-Town...

You also have to be under 92dB regardless of exhaust setup... so they say...
What mufflers are you running?

BTW I talked to you one wednesday waiting for the gates to open, I had the Black SS on the open 2 Car trailer.

I will call them, but the last time I was told about the behind the door thing, they didnt mention not to use bullet mufflers, and then the tech guy made me run un muffled class. So Im doing another exhaust... Basically no one ever gave me a 100% straight answer one way or the other, so I was hoping to see what you guys get through with.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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i have mine right off the headers. I have 6in of pipe then a 40 series flow master on each side. i pass tech every time and never had a problem
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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bump!
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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I did 3.5 inch piping to a pair of super 44 mufflers and then a foot or so worth of pipe aimed out the sides. Meets noise requirments no problem.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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They have to be baffled as per etown rules but Alex and I both pass with Dynatech Spitflows. Whatever you choose just make sure it's an oval muffler so they think it's baffled, if you go in there with round or bullet syle mufflers that don't look like they could be baffled you'll fail.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tektrans
They have to be baffled as per etown rules but Alex and I both pass with Dynatech Spitflows. Whatever you choose just make sure it's an oval muffler so they think it's baffled, if you go in there with round or bullet syle mufflers that don't look like they could be baffled you'll fail.
Exactly... just "look the part" lol

We use the 4"x7"x14" oval mufflers, 3" in and 3" out, not offset.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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Thanks guys...

I was thinking about using .065 Aluminum pipe (not aluminized steel), after the mufflers to have it exit behind the doors...
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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super 44's are 2 chamber and are legal legal no shady BS questionable, and I dyno tested with them on/off and there was a 4 hp difference with them on /off, and I gained 9 rwtq with them on vs off almost all the way across the rpm range.

That being said, just put a pair of 44 series on, if they wanted to be picky there's nothing there that's suspect.

Honestly whatever you use for pipe after the muffler isn't gonna me that much to make that much if a weight difference. My mufflers are about under the seat with about 16 inches of pipe before them (3.5 inch) and there's about the same after the muffler.

Next setup will be the same muffler with 4 inch in and out pipe, and I will aim the exit's toward the middle of the car/down at eachother at about a 45 degree angle, which should help with the added noise, at least I hope.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
super 44's are 2 chamber and are legal legal no shady BS questionable, and I dyno tested with them on/off and there was a 4 hp difference with them on /off, and I gained 9 rwtq with them on vs off almost all the way across the rpm range.

That being said, just put a pair of 44 series on, if they wanted to be picky there's nothing there that's suspect.

Honestly whatever you use for pipe after the muffler isn't gonna me that much to make that much if a weight difference. My mufflers are about under the seat with about 16 inches of pipe before them (3.5 inch) and there's about the same after the muffler.

Next setup will be the same muffler with 4 inch in and out pipe, and I will aim the exit's toward the middle of the car/down at eachother at about a 45 degree angle, which should help with the added noise, at least I hope.
I have the Aluminum, so i might as well use it, I bought it wholesale for $1 per foot in bulk to make some intakes for import guys....

I'll try em..
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 07:14 AM
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By all means use what ya got. I've never seen an exhaust made from alum, but I don't see why you can't. I'm sure the heat isn't gonna make it very happy, but the back 1/2 after the mufflers should be fine. I'd just be worried abotu welding the alum to the steel, but if you're gonna just flare it and clamp it you should be fine.
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
By all means use what ya got. I've never seen an exhaust made from alum, but I don't see why you can't. I'm sure the heat isn't gonna make it very happy, but the back 1/2 after the mufflers should be fine. I'd just be worried abotu welding the alum to the steel, but if you're gonna just flare it and clamp it you should be fine.
Ive seen it on imports, as long as it's a straight run after the muffler, it's usually fine. I'll weld an aluminum v band on the aluminum side, and a stainless v band on the other, and voila. I have done some fab work for some guys on clubrsx, some odd things I never thought would work.... But being that aluminum is 1/3 the weight and I have it, I might as well use it like ya said.

Last edited by BADD SS; Feb 7, 2009 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 07:43 AM
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absolutely. I don't know if ya have a way to bend that stuff, but I'd aim the exhuast down/out the sides/at each other under the car, just to help with the sound deadening a little bit.


They check the db level from behind the car fyi, strait pipe aimed at the back will be the loudest possible, so aim them out the sides, at each other, whatever you can. It will help
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
absolutely. I don't know if ya have a way to bend that stuff, but I'd aim the exhuast down/out the sides/at each other under the car, just to help with the sound deadening a little bit.


They check the db level from behind the car fyi, strait pipe aimed at the back will be the loudest possible, so aim them out the sides, at each other, whatever you can. It will help

I can only bend 2" and smaller on my bender, but I'll just section it, and weld and make a bend.
Sorta like this, but with a much tigher radius...


I was thinking of having an exit right infront of the rear wheel
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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That's how mine is, right in front of the tires aimed out the side. I painted it all flat black with some high temp paint, ya can't even see it.
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