First time at the track
I granny shift my own junk... now if I get someone else's car and I'm put to the challenge of beating their best time my right foot is going to the floor on the last yellow, and isn't coming off until I'm thru the traps that I can promise.
Well considering I am being idle this year, I may just get you to sell me your go fast parts.
It's all good.
If I could talk you into putting the drag brakes on your car and ditching the abs/tcs we could put my front spindles and drag brakes on the front of the car. That's a good 60 lbs off the nose. Car won't stop as good, but it would be a good start to getting that car under 3800 lbs
If I could talk you into putting the drag brakes on your car and ditching the abs/tcs we could put my front spindles and drag brakes on the front of the car. That's a good 60 lbs off the nose. Car won't stop as good, but it would be a good start to getting that car under 3800 lbs

and I have walked that fine line. I still need to decide how far I want to go. First run I got a little nervous and dumped the clutch at about 2500rpm. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I had to manually pull it back up. There was smoke pouring out of the back of the car. Yes it was the clutch.
It ended up being an 18 second run. Whats up with the clutch thing? I have heard of this happening before. I then cried a little and let my car cool down.Second run I launched at 1200rpm and the clutch felt much better but still stuck to the floor a little. This run was a 14.4. Now I am getting pissed so I let my car cool down for a good 45 minutes.
Third run I decided to baby the **** out of my car. I didnt launch it and I granny shifted. The clutch did not stick to the floor and this run I got a 13.9. Much much better.
Fourth run was probably my best of the night. I launched at about 1500rpm slipping the clutch out of the hole and still spinning all through first and into 2nd.
Car # 935
R/T ---.029
60'---2.285
330---5.913
1/8---8.869
MPH---83.58
1000---11.372
1/4---13.501
MPH---106.40
I know I could have pulled off better than a 13.5 with a little more practice. I am going back on Sunday so hopefully I can pull a 13.3 with these crappy tires.
The best my formula ran stock was a 13.1 I don't recall the trap speed and the time slip is long gone.I haven't decided if I want to take the WS6 to the track yet... I'm getting older, and realized beating on the car just costs me a lot more money. LMAO
I have been driving the M6 between these to cars now for 7 years, and I still have trouble launching it perfect... I just never know how the damn thing is gonna respond. Damn hydraulics. <--- thats my copout(sp) hehehee
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First run I got a little nervous and dumped the clutch at about 2500rpm. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I had to manually pull it back up. There was smoke pouring out of the back of the car. Yes it was the clutch.
It ended up being an 18 second run. Whats up with the clutch thing? I have heard of this happening before. I then cried a little and let my car cool down.Second run I launched at 1200rpm and the clutch felt much better but still stuck to the floor a little. This run was a 14.4. Now I am getting pissed so I let my car cool down for a good 45 minutes
Do a complete flush, and bleed with DOT4 fluid and do some hard driving and make sure it doesnt stick.
You probably already glazed it and its going to do it again. But this is what I was talking about.
Nice run when it worked but look forward to doing a swap soon.
The tick setup will resolve most of the problems. The fluid in there is shot for sure, and I'm sure the line has never been taken apart ahd had the drill mod done to it. That's gonna need to be done as well.
Usually a stock car won't have these problems, but as these cars get older the fluids, lines and whatnot obvously have some deterioration from age, which is most likly the culprit of your problem.
The clutch once it's smoked really good like you did, is really on it's last legs. As for a good replacement, I dont know what's a good replacment these days. One thing I can tell you is that you need to get used to driving the car around and letting it out FAST. riding any kind of performance clutch at all is gonna kill it really quick.
I used to use a Spec 4I, which isn't made anymore. I'd try calling spec and see what the replacment is for the old 4I (I standing for sintered iron friction mat'l) That clutch held up to alot of abuse and never gave me a problem.
Gererally as a rule, the hydrraulic clutch is meant for women who don't want to deal with a stiff clutch pedal... had GM made a good linkage, or a cable setup for the clutch actuation we'd never see these issues.
Good times though for a stock car. 13.5 on a car that's 9 years old with x amoutn of miles on it you're in good shape. That's a good starting spot for sure.
With a decent clutch in the car, and a ittle better tire you probably can see a bottom 13, maybe if you're lucky a 12.99 out of it
The other clutch I could recommend for stock to maybe cam only power that wont skip a beat is the GM LS7.
bear in mind if/when you do this, might as well do the Slave cyl, pilot bearing, and the Clutch master to ensure its all new and up to date.
*EDIT*
I forgot to mention, when you do the work, go to a dealership, ask for the parts for a 2002 Camaro, not a 2000, GM made updates to better them.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; Apr 16, 2009 at 10:13 AM.
So I did it all one shot.
The GM and RAM (stock with adjuster) are insufficent for most aftermarket clutches, the Tick is a better MC due to the Tilton cyl that is used and it pushes more fluid.
*edit*
When you decide to do the work, go to the dealership and ask for 2002 Camaro/Pontiac Slave cyl since GM updated the stuff from 2001+
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; Apr 16, 2009 at 10:53 AM. Reason: forgot something






