First time at the track
#21
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Sure, we can put those parts on your car once I've replaced them. You can buy them if you'd like once they're off I have no problem selling them to you.
I granny shift my own junk... now if I get someone else's car and I'm put to the challenge of beating their best time my right foot is going to the floor on the last yellow, and isn't coming off until I'm thru the traps that I can promise.
I granny shift my own junk... now if I get someone else's car and I'm put to the challenge of beating their best time my right foot is going to the floor on the last yellow, and isn't coming off until I'm thru the traps that I can promise.
Well considering I am being idle this year, I may just get you to sell me your go fast parts.
It's all good.
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#22
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Most of what you want are coming off the car at some point, front end will be the first thing that comes off.
If I could talk you into putting the drag brakes on your car and ditching the abs/tcs we could put my front spindles and drag brakes on the front of the car. That's a good 60 lbs off the nose. Car won't stop as good, but it would be a good start to getting that car under 3800 lbs
If I could talk you into putting the drag brakes on your car and ditching the abs/tcs we could put my front spindles and drag brakes on the front of the car. That's a good 60 lbs off the nose. Car won't stop as good, but it would be a good start to getting that car under 3800 lbs
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#25
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Most of what you want are coming off the car at some point, front end will be the first thing that comes off.
If I could talk you into putting the drag brakes on your car and ditching the abs/tcs we could put my front spindles and drag brakes on the front of the car. That's a good 60 lbs off the nose. Car won't stop as good, but it would be a good start to getting that car under 3800 lbs![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
If I could talk you into putting the drag brakes on your car and ditching the abs/tcs we could put my front spindles and drag brakes on the front of the car. That's a good 60 lbs off the nose. Car won't stop as good, but it would be a good start to getting that car under 3800 lbs
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#26
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OK so here is how it went.
First run I got a little nervous and dumped the clutch at about 2500rpm. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I had to manually pull it back up. There was smoke pouring out of the back of the car. Yes it was the clutch.
It ended up being an 18 second run. Whats up with the clutch thing? I have heard of this happening before. I then cried a little and let my car cool down.
Second run I launched at 1200rpm and the clutch felt much better but still stuck to the floor a little. This run was a 14.4. Now I am getting pissed so I let my car cool down for a good 45 minutes.
Third run I decided to baby the **** out of my car. I didnt launch it and I granny shifted. The clutch did not stick to the floor and this run I got a 13.9. Much much better.
Fourth run was probably my best of the night. I launched at about 1500rpm slipping the clutch out of the hole and still spinning all through first and into 2nd.
Car # 935
R/T ---.029
60'---2.285
330---5.913
1/8---8.869
MPH---83.58
1000---11.372
1/4---13.501
MPH---106.40
I know I could have pulled off better than a 13.5 with a little more practice. I am going back on Sunday so hopefully I can pull a 13.3 with these crappy tires.
First run I got a little nervous and dumped the clutch at about 2500rpm. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I had to manually pull it back up. There was smoke pouring out of the back of the car. Yes it was the clutch.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Second run I launched at 1200rpm and the clutch felt much better but still stuck to the floor a little. This run was a 14.4. Now I am getting pissed so I let my car cool down for a good 45 minutes.
Third run I decided to baby the **** out of my car. I didnt launch it and I granny shifted. The clutch did not stick to the floor and this run I got a 13.9. Much much better.
Fourth run was probably my best of the night. I launched at about 1500rpm slipping the clutch out of the hole and still spinning all through first and into 2nd.
Car # 935
R/T ---.029
60'---2.285
330---5.913
1/8---8.869
MPH---83.58
1000---11.372
1/4---13.501
MPH---106.40
I know I could have pulled off better than a 13.5 with a little more practice. I am going back on Sunday so hopefully I can pull a 13.3 with these crappy tires.
#28
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Good run
The best my formula ran stock was a 13.1 I don't recall the trap speed and the time slip is long gone.
I haven't decided if I want to take the WS6 to the track yet... I'm getting older, and realized beating on the car just costs me a lot more money. LMAO
I have been driving the M6 between these to cars now for 7 years, and I still have trouble launching it perfect... I just never know how the damn thing is gonna respond. Damn hydraulics. <--- thats my copout(sp) hehehee
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I haven't decided if I want to take the WS6 to the track yet... I'm getting older, and realized beating on the car just costs me a lot more money. LMAO
I have been driving the M6 between these to cars now for 7 years, and I still have trouble launching it perfect... I just never know how the damn thing is gonna respond. Damn hydraulics. <--- thats my copout(sp) hehehee
#29
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dude those are amazing numbers for a stock car.. hell best i managed with bolt ons was a 8.4 in the 1/8th... although the guy before me got a 8.11.... ima go back now that im used to the car!
#30
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OK so here is how it went.
First run I got a little nervous and dumped the clutch at about 2500rpm. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I had to manually pull it back up. There was smoke pouring out of the back of the car. Yes it was the clutch.
It ended up being an 18 second run. Whats up with the clutch thing? I have heard of this happening before. I then cried a little and let my car cool down.
Second run I launched at 1200rpm and the clutch felt much better but still stuck to the floor a little. This run was a 14.4. Now I am getting pissed so I let my car cool down for a good 45 minutes
First run I got a little nervous and dumped the clutch at about 2500rpm. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I had to manually pull it back up. There was smoke pouring out of the back of the car. Yes it was the clutch.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Second run I launched at 1200rpm and the clutch felt much better but still stuck to the floor a little. This run was a 14.4. Now I am getting pissed so I let my car cool down for a good 45 minutes
Do a complete flush, and bleed with DOT4 fluid and do some hard driving and make sure it doesnt stick.
You probably already glazed it and its going to do it again. But this is what I was talking about.
Nice run when it worked but look forward to doing a swap soon.
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#31
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That's typical gm hydraulics. They're junk, 100%
The tick setup will resolve most of the problems. The fluid in there is shot for sure, and I'm sure the line has never been taken apart ahd had the drill mod done to it. That's gonna need to be done as well.
Usually a stock car won't have these problems, but as these cars get older the fluids, lines and whatnot obvously have some deterioration from age, which is most likly the culprit of your problem.
The clutch once it's smoked really good like you did, is really on it's last legs. As for a good replacement, I dont know what's a good replacment these days. One thing I can tell you is that you need to get used to driving the car around and letting it out FAST. riding any kind of performance clutch at all is gonna kill it really quick.
I used to use a Spec 4I, which isn't made anymore. I'd try calling spec and see what the replacment is for the old 4I (I standing for sintered iron friction mat'l) That clutch held up to alot of abuse and never gave me a problem.
Gererally as a rule, the hydrraulic clutch is meant for women who don't want to deal with a stiff clutch pedal... had GM made a good linkage, or a cable setup for the clutch actuation we'd never see these issues.
Good times though for a stock car. 13.5 on a car that's 9 years old with x amoutn of miles on it you're in good shape. That's a good starting spot for sure.
With a decent clutch in the car, and a ittle better tire you probably can see a bottom 13, maybe if you're lucky a 12.99 out of it
The tick setup will resolve most of the problems. The fluid in there is shot for sure, and I'm sure the line has never been taken apart ahd had the drill mod done to it. That's gonna need to be done as well.
Usually a stock car won't have these problems, but as these cars get older the fluids, lines and whatnot obvously have some deterioration from age, which is most likly the culprit of your problem.
The clutch once it's smoked really good like you did, is really on it's last legs. As for a good replacement, I dont know what's a good replacment these days. One thing I can tell you is that you need to get used to driving the car around and letting it out FAST. riding any kind of performance clutch at all is gonna kill it really quick.
I used to use a Spec 4I, which isn't made anymore. I'd try calling spec and see what the replacment is for the old 4I (I standing for sintered iron friction mat'l) That clutch held up to alot of abuse and never gave me a problem.
Gererally as a rule, the hydrraulic clutch is meant for women who don't want to deal with a stiff clutch pedal... had GM made a good linkage, or a cable setup for the clutch actuation we'd never see these issues.
Good times though for a stock car. 13.5 on a car that's 9 years old with x amoutn of miles on it you're in good shape. That's a good starting spot for sure.
With a decent clutch in the car, and a ittle better tire you probably can see a bottom 13, maybe if you're lucky a 12.99 out of it
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#32
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I love my Tick Per. master Cyl, its proven to work. I also love mt Textrailia OZ700 which some say is overkill for the price but I dont care, I know it works.
The other clutch I could recommend for stock to maybe cam only power that wont skip a beat is the GM LS7.
bear in mind if/when you do this, might as well do the Slave cyl, pilot bearing, and the Clutch master to ensure its all new and up to date.
*EDIT*
I forgot to mention, when you do the work, go to a dealership, ask for the parts for a 2002 Camaro, not a 2000, GM made updates to better them.
The other clutch I could recommend for stock to maybe cam only power that wont skip a beat is the GM LS7.
bear in mind if/when you do this, might as well do the Slave cyl, pilot bearing, and the Clutch master to ensure its all new and up to date.
*EDIT*
I forgot to mention, when you do the work, go to a dealership, ask for the parts for a 2002 Camaro, not a 2000, GM made updates to better them.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 04-16-2009 at 10:13 AM.
#33
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hmmm... Looks like I have some more research to do. I have heard good things about the LS7 clutch as well. I will flush the fluid this weekend and see how it goes. So you think its probably not a good idea to do any racing on Sunday? On this clutch anyway?
#34
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So I did it all one shot.
The GM and RAM (stock with adjuster) are insufficent for most aftermarket clutches, the Tick is a better MC due to the Tilton cyl that is used and it pushes more fluid.
*edit*
When you decide to do the work, go to the dealership and ask for 2002 Camaro/Pontiac Slave cyl since GM updated the stuff from 2001+
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 04-16-2009 at 10:53 AM. Reason: forgot something
#35
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So I put fresh fluids in and bled the clutch. I was itching to take it to the track so I did anyways. The clutch was working perfectly and I got a little better at launching. Still bone stock it ran a 13.3 at 107mph. with a 2.25 60ft
#37
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how is runnning a 13.5 to a 13.3 the same results? Unless you meant something else. I just got a little better at shifting and launching. I am trapping 107mph which isnt bad for stock right?