Track Newbie, educate me!
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: North Little Rock, Ar
Track Newbie, educate me! Well went to the track for the first time 2 weeks ago. Ran a 12.90 @ 104 MPH on street tires. That wasn't quite fast enough. So ordered some 315 Nitto 555R's
and ran a 12.60 @ 108 MPH w/ a 1.75 60', Tire pressure was 20 PSI. This was the first run of the night and I didn't leave at full throttle (didn't know what to expect).
So the next run tried leaving at full throttle, not a good idea spun to a 2.0 60' and a 13.0 ET.
The last 2 runs went 12.70's With part throttle out
of the hole.
So is this pretty typical for the Nitto's at the track, Or am I not using these tires correctly, tire pressure, burn out, etc?
I guess what I am asking is, is this pretty typical for my mods or am I missing out on better times. It is a bolt-on, Hot Cam, 3600 stall, with 3.73's running
about 12.5-.7 A/F ratio on stock timing. LCA's, Pan Hard, stock springs, !front sway bar. Any ideas to go faster before the 100 N2O going on soon? Want to go as deep in the 11's on N2O as possible and still be a street car.
Just a newbie at the track so trying to educate myself.
Thanks, and sorry so long!
and ran a 12.60 @ 108 MPH w/ a 1.75 60', Tire pressure was 20 PSI. This was the first run of the night and I didn't leave at full throttle (didn't know what to expect).
So the next run tried leaving at full throttle, not a good idea spun to a 2.0 60' and a 13.0 ET.
The last 2 runs went 12.70's With part throttle outof the hole.
So is this pretty typical for the Nitto's at the track, Or am I not using these tires correctly, tire pressure, burn out, etc?
I guess what I am asking is, is this pretty typical for my mods or am I missing out on better times. It is a bolt-on, Hot Cam, 3600 stall, with 3.73's running
about 12.5-.7 A/F ratio on stock timing. LCA's, Pan Hard, stock springs, !front sway bar. Any ideas to go faster before the 100 N2O going on soon? Want to go as deep in the 11's on N2O as possible and still be a street car.
Just a newbie at the track so trying to educate myself.
Thanks, and sorry so long!
Well went to the track for the first time 2 weeks ago. Ran a 12.90 @ 104 MPH on street tires. That wasn't quite fast enough. So ordered some 315 Nitto 555R's
and ran a 12.60 @ 108 MPH w/ a 1.75 60', Tire pressure was 20 PSI. This was the first run of the night and I didn't leave at full throttle (didn't know what to expect).
So the next run tried leaving at full throttle, not a good idea spun to a 2.0 60' and a 13.0 ET. The last 2 runs went 12.70's With part throttle out
of the hole.
So is this pretty typical for the Nitto's at the track, Or am I not using these tires correctly, tire pressure, burn out, etc?
I guess what I am asking is, is this pretty typical for my mods or am I missing out on better times. It is a bolt-on, Hot Cam, 3600 stall, with 3.73's running
about 12.5-.7 A/F ratio on stock timing. LCA's, Pan Hard, stock springs, !front sway bar. Any ideas to go faster before the 100 N2O going on soon? Want to go as deep in the 11's on N2O as possible and still be a street car.
Just a newbie at the track so trying to educate myself.
Thanks, and sorry so long!
and ran a 12.60 @ 108 MPH w/ a 1.75 60', Tire pressure was 20 PSI. This was the first run of the night and I didn't leave at full throttle (didn't know what to expect).
So the next run tried leaving at full throttle, not a good idea spun to a 2.0 60' and a 13.0 ET.
The last 2 runs went 12.70's With part throttle outof the hole.
So is this pretty typical for the Nitto's at the track, Or am I not using these tires correctly, tire pressure, burn out, etc?
I guess what I am asking is, is this pretty typical for my mods or am I missing out on better times. It is a bolt-on, Hot Cam, 3600 stall, with 3.73's running
about 12.5-.7 A/F ratio on stock timing. LCA's, Pan Hard, stock springs, !front sway bar. Any ideas to go faster before the 100 N2O going on soon? Want to go as deep in the 11's on N2O as possible and still be a street car.
Just a newbie at the track so trying to educate myself.
Thanks, and sorry so long!
What is the D/A at the track Density Altitude, or at least Elevation, Temps, and Humidity.
What is your burnout techinique?
Do you own line lock?
I see no TQ arm or LCA relocation brackets.
The stall may need a little more, but what I worry about is the side wall on the Nitto. With a automatic car you can get away with a Nitto alot longer then a M6 car but if there isnt much sidewall with the tire and also be it a radial, the tire doesnt recover and if you spin, the run is done.
Also, what power did the car make.... Got a LS6 intake or better??? Bolt mods, exhaust??
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: North Little Rock, Ar
Not sure on the power. Car made 320RWHP before LT's, stall, and LS6 intake. Have been tuning the car myself and have it pretty well dialed in
at 12.5 A/F. I am sure I could get more HP with some timing adjustments and A/F on a dyno but I don't trust my Knock sensors and haven't found time or a
good place to dyno. When I did the intake swap found some oil down in the hole with the Knock sensor,So I cleaned out the oil and put in a new Knock
Sensor. But am still getting Knock sensor low voltage error, and every time I went WOT on stock timing I would get 4 degrees pulled no
matter what changed in the tune. So I just zeroed out the WOT retard table and left it stock timing.I know that is not the best thing to do but
wasn't sure how to fix at the time and didn't have the time to fix, it was my DD. I do have time now so any advice is appreciated on that.
Don't do a real smokey burnout, just burn em till it feels like it wants to start pushing. No line lock. What exactly does it do? Just locks the front brakes, right?
Altitude at Tulsa Raceway park is 620ft., Temps were in the low 70's with a little humidity (rain was in the area). Don't know the DA.
So are you saying I should be in the 11's without N2O? I don't have any plans of changing the stall, but might change the cam in the future. But it will stay
as is for now, except for the N2O.
at 12.5 A/F. I am sure I could get more HP with some timing adjustments and A/F on a dyno but I don't trust my Knock sensors and haven't found time or a
good place to dyno. When I did the intake swap found some oil down in the hole with the Knock sensor,So I cleaned out the oil and put in a new Knock
Sensor. But am still getting Knock sensor low voltage error, and every time I went WOT on stock timing I would get 4 degrees pulled no
matter what changed in the tune. So I just zeroed out the WOT retard table and left it stock timing.I know that is not the best thing to do but
wasn't sure how to fix at the time and didn't have the time to fix, it was my DD. I do have time now so any advice is appreciated on that.
Don't do a real smokey burnout, just burn em till it feels like it wants to start pushing. No line lock. What exactly does it do? Just locks the front brakes, right?
Altitude at Tulsa Raceway park is 620ft., Temps were in the low 70's with a little humidity (rain was in the area). Don't know the DA.
So are you saying I should be in the 11's without N2O? I don't have any plans of changing the stall, but might change the cam in the future. But it will stay
as is for now, except for the N2O.
As much as I am for D.I.Y. things, Tuning is not one of them, get it to a dyno to verify the power, the car could be down, either due to tune or something mechanical.
Line lock does lock the front brakes, it makes for an easier, more consistant burnout and will help load the converter better if the brakes are not over heated.
I would start recording the DA at your track to get an idea on how the air quality is.
As for the set up, with what you have, I have seen people into the 11's easily. But again, there are some unknown factors.
How tall is the sidewall on the tire.
315/??-17 I am assuming.
Line lock does lock the front brakes, it makes for an easier, more consistant burnout and will help load the converter better if the brakes are not over heated.
I would start recording the DA at your track to get an idea on how the air quality is.
As for the set up, with what you have, I have seen people into the 11's easily. But again, there are some unknown factors.
How tall is the sidewall on the tire.
315/??-17 I am assuming.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: North Little Rock, Ar
As much as I am for D.I.Y. things, Tuning is not one of them, get it to a dyno to verify the power, the car could be down, either due to tune or something mechanical.
Line lock does lock the front brakes, it makes for an easier, more consistant burnout and will help load the converter better if the brakes are not over heated.
I would start recording the DA at your track to get an idea on how the air quality is.
As for the set up, with what you have, I have seen people into the 11's easily. But again, there are some unknown factors.
How tall is the sidewall on the tire.
315/??-17 I am assuming.
Line lock does lock the front brakes, it makes for an easier, more consistant burnout and will help load the converter better if the brakes are not over heated.
I would start recording the DA at your track to get an idea on how the air quality is.
As for the set up, with what you have, I have seen people into the 11's easily. But again, there are some unknown factors.
How tall is the sidewall on the tire.
315/??-17 I am assuming.
of if it might be down on power. If the A/F is at 12.5-.7 across the board, how much HP can you expect to get from adjusting just the timing? I know
you can't tell me exact, but what have you seen as far as a gain on timing adjustments alone?
Yes the tires are 315/35/17's.
Have you seen cars with my setup run in the 11's at full weight plus some stereo equipment and empty N2O bottle? Just trying to make a determination
of if it might be down on power. If the A/F is at 12.5-.7 across the board, how much HP can you expect to get from adjusting just the timing? I know
you can't tell me exact, but what have you seen as far as a gain on timing adjustments alone?
Yes the tires are 315/35/17's.
of if it might be down on power. If the A/F is at 12.5-.7 across the board, how much HP can you expect to get from adjusting just the timing? I know
you can't tell me exact, but what have you seen as far as a gain on timing adjustments alone?
Yes the tires are 315/35/17's.
a 35mm tall side wall does you absolutely no good, you need that flex.
As for timing, only a dyno can verify, your not supposed to have ANY Knock Retard.
